I've been celebrating
Día Nacional de la Pupusa a little early this year. Somehow I never managed to stop at the Maxwell Market pupusa stand until recently. (The picture of the stand is from earlier this summer at the old location; the pupusa was photographed a few weeks ago.)


I have to say I was a little disappointed. Now, freshly griddled masa cakes are never
bad but in the world of pupusas these weren't great examples. One big reason was the muddy-flavored meat filling. If I try these again it will be cheese only. I wasn't impressed with the dull curtido with little flavor other than vinegar but found the spicy salsa tasty though nontraditional.
It had been a while since I last visited
Pupuseria El Salvador on the East Side. In the background is the old
Tacos del Pacifico in its latest incarnation.


This place continues to shine. The pupusas are cooked with great care; each one gets pressed slightly so a bit of filling oozes out onto the griddle where it browns and crisps up. That pupusa is filled with loroco and cheese, my favorite combination. I've never had better curtido and the tamales de pollo and budin were as good as ever. A terrific little restaurant.
Pupuseria El Exelente has only been open about 4 months. It occupies part (the kitchen I presume) of the old Import Tap, a much-missed East Side institution (you might be able to make out the old sign beneath the yellow paint).

I tried a take-out pupusa so it's difficult (and not really fair) to judge. The cheese was a bit tangier than usual and the salsa had a bit of a kick—both positives in my book. The family that runs this place could not have been nicer. El Exelente is on my short list of places to return to.
Finally, here's a link to a most excellent pupusa video:
La Pupusa Mas Grande del Mundo. If that doesn't get you in the mood for Pupusa Day you're beyond hope.
Pupusas Salvadoreños
Maxwell Market (now on Desplaines)
near south (Roosevelt) end of market
Pupuseria El Salvador
3557 E 106th St
Chicago
773-374-0490
Pupuseria El Exelente
10429 S Ewing Av
Chicago
773-978-8270