Very surprised that no one has reported on this place since last fall. We visited for Restaurant Week; it was new to us and curiosity is a powerful incentive. Two rooms: a more open, noisier one in front and a more subdued, cozier one in back. I don’t understand Kennyz’s objections to this room upthread: we were the second or third couple in the room and found it quite pleasant (though LDC was a bit less than thrilled with some of the artwork).
(One note: we were seated next to a “wall” that is the back side of the “wine rack.” Any time someone in the house orders a bottle, a server comes to the back of the wall, opens the sliding glass doors that protect it, and selects the bottle. Unfortunately, the two or three tables next to this wall are much too close. Meaning that every time a server came over to select a bottle, he or she was an uninvited third guest at our table. Totally unnecessary, intrusive, and mildly annoying.)
We had a choice of the regular menu or the Restaurant Week offerings. Although we both found a number of things on the regular menu that were tempting, we both chose, in the end, to go with the special offerings: it’s hard to beat $32 for an appetizer, entrée, and dessert. We were also very pleasantly surprised to see prices that we thought were quite reasonable on the regular menu as well. One of the other things that favorably impressed us was the house’s willingness to allow us to order off the regular menu to supplement to special offerings. And so we did just that.

Not to much to see here. It’s an
amuse and I forgot to take notes. Mushrooms, a garlic crème fraiche (we think) and.... Next time we’ll take notes but this time all I can say is that we both enjoyed it quite a bit.

Province has tiny apps that they call “bites.” For a very practical reason. They’re only $3 and, based on our sample, they’re hard to resist. In the event, we each chose one (there were, sadly, only three on the menu). The Lovely Dining Companion opted for the pork bocadillo. Hers was really a pulled pork sammie but full of flavor, perfectly sized, and a wonderful
vorspeis. We both enjoyed it as well as my shrimp/white bean/chimichurri toast. I wanted to try something else to see what the kitchen could offer and, though I was skeptical about the three elements working together, I need not have been. Both were a couple bites each and highly enjoyable.

I went for the smoked salmon tartare parfait. It sounds gimmicky: as this picture of the latter shows, it is a take-off on the ice-cream classic, the salmon layered with avocado, cucumbers, and a chive crema. On top, that little yellow puddle was a very tart lemon oil/zest combo. I was doubtful at first, but the dish was terrific. The lemon provided a perfect complement to the very rich (very lightly smoked, as it happened) salmon. I’m not a huge fan of salmon but I really enjoyed this dish. It’s conception is a wonderful riff and the execution was beautiful. Most of all, the flavor was up front, and highly enjoyable.
LDC’s appetizer was roasted wild mushrooms and winter vegetables topped with an “orange mojo.” Nothing daring or even unusual here but a classic dish beautifully executed. Highly enjoyable. Her entrée of choice was a nicely sized portion of petrale sole sitting atop a mashed potato cake with “cara cara” orange vinaigrette. (Cara cara oranges, I discovered, are a sweet, low acid variety of navel oranges.) Unfortunately, LDC didn't find that the vinaigrette complemented the fish; but for the sauce, she would really have enjoyed it. Yes, the entire fish was, um, "dressed" with it. Otherwise, sole is sole and there isn’t much I can offer except to say that if you like sole, you might wish to consider this dish. Fish is always best served hot (rather than warm) and this was; it was also perfectly cooked.

My entrée amounted to cassoulet minus the Toulouse sausage: duck confit with white beans. But the kitchen had to add their own touch and so added piquillo peppers and braised greens. A splash of very good (but not outstanding) rouille; I'm sued to having it with bouillabaise, not duck confit. Still, even though I'm not certain that it was a good match, I would have enjoyed more:
I like it. The duck and beans were great. So were the peppers. The greens (I think they were the culprit) were too salty. Much too salty. I asked and was told that they were an unusual variety of swiss chard. I don’t object to the greens on principal but I disliked the saltiness they brought to the plate. The duck was plentiful, rich, rich, rich, and the dish on the whole, a success. LDC took a bite and didn’t find the salt as objectionable as I did.

Dessert was a much bigger pleasure than either of us expected. She had the carrot cake with cream cheese and a molasses/honey ice cream. I chose the pear cobbler served warm with cinnamon ice cream. Both were beautiful presentations and both were excellent. The flavor of pear is all too often too delicate to survive the process—whatever the process is. This wasn’t and it was a true delight. Carrot cake, too, is far too often a standard item churned out by someone not that interested in making it. This was a genuine pleasure. Both reminded us how good the “old standards” can be when the person making them is committed, knowledgeable, and really good at what he or she does.


One note about the service. It’s nice to go to the restroom and come back and find your napkin refolded for you. It’s hardly necessary but it’s an indication that people are paying attention. They did that here. They also very happily brought out a nice plate of garlic toast (with plenty on the plate) when I asked for some bread to soak up the juices from my confit. A little thing but done happily and it pleased me. Even more than that, they did something I find even rarer, something that takes virtually no effort and yet is very rarely done--at least in our experience. The server marked who had what so that when the dishes were brought to the table, the person bringing them knew where each went without having to ask. Big thing? Of course not. But it’s so nice to have someone take that little extra effort, thus avoiding the little "merry-go-round“ of "Who had the fish?” “Who had the duck?” “Who had this?” “Who had that?” It takes so little effort that it always astonishes me at how rare it is, but they got it exactly right at Province.
We liked it just fine and we'll happily return.
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)