Two more visits to Bodhi under our expanding belts, and they continue to impress. What's not perfect is still delicious and a clear cut above other options in the area. Sampled dishes have included:
Sweet potato and corn fritters - bird's nest style cakes with taro binding the shredded yam and sweet corn kernels (some of which pop slightly in the oil, really neat - perhaps some of this is preserved corn?), served with a piquant, sweet fruit sauce topped with toasted peanuts. As Panther mentioned above, their sauces are excellent and either completely homemade or carefully doctored, because they're something special.
Gui-chai - extremely rich homemade chive dumplings with a peanut-buttery stick to the roof of your mouth rice shell served with sweet soy. I've had these on three occasions and they've been remarkably consistent.
Isaan sausage - charred, coarse, chunky, excellent homemade Isaan, slightly funkier than Yum Thai but not as complex as Spoon, still quite remarkable and with good garnishes which include very large planks of fresh ginger, finger chilis, and crisp lettuce for wrapping
Tom Yum - an above-average version with fresh ingredients and a rich perfume; their standard version of the soup includes some tomatoes, which usually make me frown (along with baby corn) when I see them on a Thai menu, but they don't detract here.
Spicy beef salad - the standard straight off the menu is really tasty, even without the garlic cloves and extra chilis I requested on the first visit. Clearly charcoal broiled (as is their satay). Good beef, again perhaps slightly well done, I've forgotten to specify rare.
Pad Thai - as cited, a sweet rendition, but also a good one, with plenty of wok hay and admirably toasted oily ground peanuts aplenty. Contrast with Penny's on Chicago, which uses squeaky, coarsely chopped raw peanuts which throw off the balance of most dishes.
Pad See Ewe (for the PSP) - also a slightly north of standard version, heavy on the sauce with lots of caramel notes, Chinese broccoli, egg, good fried tofu. I might ask for it dry (or even "crispy," as they will do at TAC or PS Bangkok with a quick dunk in the fryer next time.
Masamun Beef Curry - coconut-rich curry with good beef and peanuts. The sweet potatoes have been slightly undercooked and I haven't seen signs of the menu-promised squash and avocado, which would offer something a bit different.
Pad Prik King - a sleeper hit, which has disappointed me at other local places but is elevated here by fresh crispy string beans and slices of a richer and fattier pork than the standard tenderloin. A warning that this is an all-oil curry in the Lao Sze Chuan boiled beef mode, perfect on rice.
All of this other than the Isaan is off the standard menu; a few other items (lime sole, coconut scallops, clay pot shrimp, steamed mussels with eggplant, marinated squid) also make this a change-of-pace type Thai place. I've felt bad about pressing them on the back-of-house items in this early phase now that business has started to pick up, but they have been kind enough to offer special items with advance notice, so I'll try to get an event going soon.
A final word: the desserts are stellar. Thai custard incorporate taro paste and coconut milk into a perfect browned flan, large tapioca and rice pearls float in steaming coconut milk (sometimes with slices of fresh fruit), and the steamed sweet sticky rice bundles with black bean, coconut, and banana are little stomach bombs of joy.
With the "bistro" name and expanded menu, they're certainly targeting upscale American Thai aficionados, but I think delivering on a more homey level reflecting a mix of good taste, training, and pride.