I now have double reason to lament the passing of Cafe Le Coq; the cozy wallside seating and old-world bistro tile floor has been banished in favor of drab laminate and uniform table islands, making a tiny space feel cavernous, especially without any diners. The new Klay Oven owners at least preserved the tin ceiling and added some wall hangings, but I couldn't find anything homey (or any homie) in either the atmosphere or the food.
We started with the samosas, which came in an order of two, for $6. While large, they were bready, baked affairs with a distinct, distracting peppermint aroma and uniform, uninteresting texture. The corners were cooked to hardtack consistency. The chilli kulcha was a similarly dry, tired dough smeared with an overripe chili oil with no other seasoning to note, including salt. The bhuna gosht did not give the impression of long-braised goat falling off the bone, but rather gamey, chewy nuggets in simple tomato sauce. By this point, I was fervently clicking my heels together and wishing for Lao Sze Chuan stir-fried lamb with cumin.
The chicken makhni arrived and, well, it's hard to screw up chicken cooked with that much butter, so it was pretty decent. But the sauce was very similar to the lamb, and similarly covered in brown, curling cilantro. The pacing of the dishes was considerably off, with the samosas appearing instantaneously and the chicken just barely making it before their official lunch closing time (and we had been there for 50 minutes at that point).
The mango lassi was good.
All in all, I can't wait for Khyber Pass to be re-opened in full strength, where, if the buffet does age fast, at least the hosts are fun and the space warm and welcoming. This Klay Oven bears little resemblance to the one downtown, at least from the dishes we ordered. I'd be interested to hear if other items (or other days) get more kitchen attention. Our visit was not Konfidence-inducing.
Klay Oven Restaurant
734 Lake St.
Oak Park
(708) 386-3999