After all the good suggestions (TAC and Crisp are old friends), I ended up at Little Brother's on Fullerton.
I recall its getting a nice bit of press when it opened but hadn't seen anything posted here.
For what I was after, it was well nigh perfect0---bright, friendly, and cozy with WFMT wafting pleasantly down from the ceiling speakers.
It's basically Korean/'Asian', prices are excellent and preparation seems very careful. (Big eaters will probably want a bit more than comes with the standard meal, but it still won't dent your wallet much.)
You order up front, then take your seat and your name is called when your food is ready.
It's served on a plastic lunch tray with either western implements or chopsticks.
I had The Big Brother meal, which comprises a main dish and 2 sides. Drink is a la carte, as I recall. There is also a smaller "Little Brother" and an "LB Bowl" a la Crisp. A bibim bop variation.
You choose your protein (chicken, tofu, steak), then a sauce from among 3 (a brown sugar soy glaze, a cilantro infused chili sauce, and a hotter standard Korean chili sauce).
I had the tofu, which is done in roughly 1 1/2" cubes, dusted with corn starch and really delicately fried. The outside of each cube is beautifully crisp and light, the inside creamy. I chose the "medium" sauce with the cilantro and it worked very well. This is served with a lovely dome of white rice (brown can be ordered for another .99), ornamented with just a couple of little black sesame seeds on top.
My sides were vegetable dumplings---also perfectly crisped and shiny and hot from the fryer, in their own lightly spicy/sweet sauce, and mixed veggies which were undressed broccoli florets and carrot slices. These benefited from a dip in the other sauces on my plate.
Other available sides included edamame, a cucumber salad with sesame dressing, an asian slaw, and a few other things.
To drink I chose mint limeade (the other house-made choice was mango-lemonade, or a full complement of commercial pops, teas, and waters).
The limeade was not too sweet, and the mint was fresh.
My dinner was $7.99 (steak is $1 more).
I enjoyed everything about it.
It seems to me the best kind of "fast food" with none of the usual hazards that lurk within other "quick" Asian spots, e.g. the overcooked noodles or heat-lamp petrified rice, the one-note soy marinades, the corn syrup-shiny sugary sauces, etc.
Everything was made to order and you could see it and taste it.
It's not a place to linger as tables are smallish and the chairs are hard plastic, but for a quick, fresh, healthy bite of something with real flavor when you may only have a few minutes and need change back from your $10, I can't think of anything better.
Little Brother's - 818 W. Fullerton Ave.
"Strange how potent cheap music is."