Tru has recently undergone some significant changes (perhaps a push towards achieving multiple Michelin stars). While I think that in the long run the changes will prove to be for the better, there are some growing pains to be worked out; tonight's dinner was still extremely good overall, but some tweaking is in order. Tru no longer offers an a la carte option but has two tasting menus (which they have dubbed the "experience"); a seven course menu (for $115 with optional $75 wine pairings) and a thirteen course (for $158 with optional $115 pairings). All of the items on the seven course menu are also on the thirteen course.
Also gone is the bread service, though small pieces of bread are served alongside three of the courses (on the thirteen course menu) similar to what Grace is doing. The mignardises cart is also no longer in play (there are still mignardises, but scaled down). The cheese cart is still available (as a supplement) as is the coral caviar service. One knock on Tru was that the menu tended to be slow to shift over but they are now planning on a seasonal menu that will completely change every three months. The ambiance is quite nice with large tables and ample spacing between them providing an intimate vibe; soft classical music plays in the background - perhaps the only knock is the decor is just a tad old fashioned.
Presentations were stunning for many of the courses and most of the food was really good; the biggest issue was portioning. We opted for the thirteen course menu and actually ended up with less food than when we dined at Tru last year and did the three course prix fixe plus cheese cart (as the portions were much larger then, there were several gifts from the chef between courses, we went through lots of bread and the mignardises were endless). On the current menu the first five courses are (while extremely tasty) not much larger than a typical amuse bouche.
Service was polished, warm and attentive and certainly among the best several venues in the city, but not quite at the very top (Grace and Boka would be my choices for best in Chicago in this category). Tru seemed very open to making adjustment to the menu for allergies and aversions (always a big plus for restaurants that are tasting menu centric). We opted for a shared beverage pairing and many of the wines were wonderful and there was a really nice variety (two sakes, a couple sparkling wines, a rose aged underground in cement, a hard cider, a couple of reds and whites and dessert wines). While they initially brought us one glass to share, upon request they provided smaller pours in our own glasses. With it being a Tuesday the dining room was not all that crowded (less than a third full) and as such pacing was likely a bit faster than normal, though we never felt rushed (the thirteen courses took about two and one half hours).
The amuse bouche consisted of a beet with ossetra caviar, horseradish and chervil:

The first course was titled Day Boat Scallop served with hon shimeki, cilantro, ginger and lime. I loved this course, but was tiny portion. Was similar to a ceviche. The serving piece glowed and drew attention as it was walked to the table (it reminded me presentation wise of a dish called Disco Shrimp served at a restaurant called Qsine):

This was followed by some scrumptious but miniscule ancho cured duck with an elegant presentation: The duck sat atop a dark stone and underneath was down feathers encased in glass. The duck was sliced extremely thin (like a carpaccio) and was sweet and sour flavored with tangerine and sour cherrys served with a mini salad with a vinaigrette:

Next up was peeky toe crab with lemon vanilla gelee and frosted parsley; also delicious but small. This had a pleasant granita like texture:

The sunchoke dish with sorrel and artic char roe was nice, but not quite up there with the prior dishes; I did really enjoy the roe as my favorite component of this dish which left a nice salty aftertaste:

The truffle royal with celery root was probably my least favorite of the savories. I love truffles but with this dish the flavor did not pop and the texture was not all that pleasant:

The best of the three "bread pairings" however was the served here; a fantastic miniature croissant with truffle butter; I would have loved a half dozen of these to-go for breakfast tomorrow:

This was followed by an amazing (but again small) light sunchoke soup with white truffle cream. The smell was so mesmerizing as the dish approached the table I could not wait to dig in (and it tasted as great as the aroma). The bread pairing here was quite nice as well; some Parmesan crisps:

The first of the protein courses was a squab; squab has really been growing on me and this was outstanding (though again so small that I was left craving more). The skin was nice and crispy and was coated with hazelnuts which really worked. There was a date sauce and carrots. Fantastic dish, but would have loved if it was at least double the size. There was a nice presentation too; a nest if first delivered to the table and moments later the serving piece with the squab is placed over the nest:

The fish course consisted of golden tilefish with shiitake mushrooms, yuzu and togarashi. Lots of Asian flavors on this dish and overall it was very good, but not great (though I have to admit the sauce was sufficiently tasty that I spooned out what was left):

The "entree" was authentic Japanese Kobe beef two ways (ribeye and short rib) was outstanding (though admittedly not quite on par with the Wagyu beef I recently enjoyed at Grace). This was served with a potato tuile and a wasabi mustard sauce. There was another beautiful presentation with the dish served on a split open log reminiscent of the salad course at Next Childhood (though minus the aromatics):

The cheese course was epoisses with an herb salad and a red wine pear. Nice transition to desserts:

Tru's famous cheese cart is still available for a supplement and is one of the best in Chicago:

My cheese plate; I chose a goat cheese coated in paprika (provided a nice mild kick), a sheep's milk cheese with thyme, juniper berries and other spices and an earthy soft cow's milk cheese and this was served with honey and some fruit poached in port (fruit bread was also available as well as several other cheeses to choose from):

The first dessert course was more of a palate cleanser; a cider sorbet served inside an apple with black walnuts; tasty but nothing memorable:

By far my favorite dessert was the vanilla parfait with orange confit; this tasted like a gourmet dreamsicle. One of the best courses of the night:

The final dessert (before a couple of bonus items) consisted of Valrhona chocolate variations; nice but just a tad too rich for me (but that is probably a personal preference rather than an issue with the dish):

After dessert a couple of bites of meringue shaped like Hershey Kisses sitting in a giant pine cone were delivered:

A filled chocolate truffle was brought with a smoky presentation courtesy of liquid nitrogen:

The mignardises were decent, but underwhelming compared to my prior visit to Tru and nowhere near as good as Sixteen (which I feel currently has the best mignardises):

We were delivered a personalized menu tableside and you are provided with some goodies on the way out. All in all a really enjoyable evening and although this is a bit of a transition period for Tru they really seem motivated to make the new format a success and an improvement over what was already stellar and one of Chicago's best venues. It was nice how receptive they were to feedback (we had a really nice chat with the dining room manager on the way out). I will definitely be back sooner rather than later and look forward to seeing them ascend to an even higher level.
Last edited by
Gonzo70 on February 20th, 2013, 11:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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