Gaztro-Wagon

Gaztro-Wagon

The food truck initiative is reaching a milestone, as reported this morning in Grub Street Chicago (an excellent site that aggregates links to many other sources – recommended reading, for sure.)

In the first wave of Chicago food trucks will probably be Gaztro-Wagon, which is establishing a beachhead with a brick-and-mortar location that will presumably anchor a fleet of trucks, specializing in naan-wiches. Currently, food trucks in Chicago must serve food prepared in licensed kitchens, so the Gaztro-Wagon restaurant will be where the stuff is made (you can take-out, and from the Thrillist video it seems like the place is set up so that you can also eat on premises).

Scheduled to open next week; website up but still a work-in-progress

5973 N. Clark

I liked reading about it, but the video that auto-loaded had to be one of the loudest, most obnoxious things I've seen/heard on a web site in a long time. And, get off my lawn, you young whippersnappers!

A week ago, the path to my kids' school had this on it: McDonald's.

As of this week, it has: McDonald's, Gastrowagon (or Gaztro-Wagon or Gaztro Wagon; the search engine thanks me). This is what we call a sharp uptick. Even if it comes just in time for summer vacation.

Gaztro Wagon is a food truck, except it's not. Matt Maroni is one of the guys helping author and push and nudge the food truck ordinance through the city council and so on, but in the meantime, he's opened a restaurant in the location of this former nothing of a Mexican restaurant.*

But you knew all that, if you've been following the localfoodmedia's obsessive coverage of food trucks. Personally, I don't see what the big deal is about food trucks-- but then I'm unlikely to be at the Empty Bottle at 11:30 on Friday night wishing I had a big hot greasy juicy but intellectually respectable pan-ethnic foodstuff to scarf down, either. On the other hand, hungry at 2:30 on north Clark near Peterson-- that, I often am, and so Gaztro Wagon's permanent location couldn't be more perfect for me.

The concept, naanwiches, has a kind of fast food feel to it. I don't mean it's crappy like fast food, they're clearly of high quality and some artisanship, but at the same time, they make a neat package of hot gooeyness that's pretty much irresistible. The naan is, indeed, a square of crispy-outside, fluffy inside naan, and then it's folded over some hot meat, some other ingredients, and some gooey sauce of some kind. I was impressed that it really was fast, Maroni has his restaurant version set up like his truck, pretty much in the same confined area as it would be on the truck, like a Food Truck Simulator. Order and he pops the naan in one oven, the meat in another, puts it together with toppings from the bins and-- bang, you got a naanwich. All that's really missing is the kitchen bouncing up and down over potholes.

What did I have? I had the very first one on the list, the wild boar. (Not wild boar again, I just had that at Burger King.) What was on it? I forget, I just ate it in a happy blur of gooey yumminess. Olives, I think, nice kalamata type olives. Was it a perfectly balanced, subtly nuanced thing? Um, I'm not sure. It kind of disappeared too fast to answer that. I'm sure there will be many more opportunities to judge the quality of Maroni's creations.

Gaztro-Wagon
5973 N. Clark St.
(773)942-6152
http://www.gaztro-wagon.com

* You will notice from that post that I have an even longer history with this location.

Hours:
11 am- 9 pm Tuesday
11 am- midnight Wednesday-Thursday
11 am- 2 am Friday
2 pm- 3 am Saturday
Closed Sunday and Monday.
Truck will operate
11 am- 10 pm Tuesday-Friday
2 pm- 10 pm Saturday

I'm always on the look-out for tasty, portable food for picnicking before the summer plays at Theatre on the Lake. Last week's choice was Gaztro-Wagon. The weather was not conducive for us to picnic so we ate in to the background sounds of tornado sirens. Mr. X had the lobster roll, I had the pork belly. Traditionalists might look down on this version of a lobster roll, but Mr. X was delighted. I enjoyed the pork belly, but felt it needed something to balance it better. We devoured the plantain chips that come with a delightful, garlicky chimichurri. I was less impressed the macaron assortment from Fritz Bakery -- they seemed a little runny. I look forward to returning because there were several more naan-wiches I want to try.

I'm thinking of stopping by here for lunch today, and checked out the offerings on their website. I'm confused, though: what on earth is a fetal pecan?

Suzy Creamcheese wrote:I'm thinking of stopping by here for lunch today, and checked out the offerings on their website. I'm confused, though: what on earth is a fetal pecan?

Feta - Slash - Pecans

Kennyz wrote:

Suzy Creamcheese wrote:I'm thinking of stopping by here for lunch today, and checked out the offerings on their website. I'm confused, though: what on earth is a fetal pecan?

Feta - Slash - Pecans

Oh.

The slash was poorly placed, you have to admit.

The GP wrote:I'm always on the look-out for tasty, portable food for picnicking before the summer plays at Theatre on the Lake. Last week's choice was Gaztro-Wagon. The weather was not conducive for us to picnic so we ate in to the background sounds of tornado sirens. Mr. X had the lobster roll, I had the pork belly. Traditionalists might look down on this version of a lobster roll, but Mr. X was delighted. I enjoyed the pork belly, but felt it needed something to balance it better. We devoured the plantain chips that come with a delightful, garlicky chimichurri. I was less impressed the macaron assortment from Fritz Bakery -- they seemed a little runny. I look forward to returning because there were several more naan-wiches I want to try.

I really liked the wild boar belly, but the pork shoulder is just outstanding. If you're looking for a balance of flavors, this is it. I wouldn't change a thing.

Didn't care for the plantain chips, though.

cilantro wrote:I really liked the wild boar belly, but the pork shoulder is just outstanding. If you're looking for a balance of flavors, this is it. I wouldn't change a thing.

Didn't care for the plantain chips, though.

And this is what makes LTH great...differing opinions on the same items.

I felt like the pork could have used more radish or something. I liked the contrast of the meat with the vegetables, but there just wasn't enough of the vegetables.

I have to correct myself -- according to the online menu, it was pork shoulder, not belly. I must have pork belly on my mind.

I've been dying to stop in since I live so close but hadn't had an opportunity in the last few weeks. But I was able to swing by and grab a sandwich to go. I got the wild boar belly naan-wich. I'd have to echo Mike G's sentiments. It was messy and it was delicious. I basically scarfed it down.

The one thing that I was slightly disappointed with was the naan. It was not very naan-like. It was more like chapati. I was expecting crispy, bubbly exterior and a fluffy interior. Maybe they're still playing around with the recipe? Either way, it's a satisfying sandwich. I plan on trying the pork shoulder naan-wich ASAP.

viaChgo wrote:The one thing that I was slightly disappointed with was the naan. It was not very naan-like. It was more like chapati. I was expecting crispy, bubbly exterior and a fluffy interior. Maybe they're still playing around with the recipe?

I agree. I found the bread to be flatter, denser, and greasier than I expect from naan. I enjoyed the pork shoulder naan-wich I had a few weeks ago, but thought the combination of rich meat and slightly greasy bread was just a bit too heavy. I was hoping for more radish in there to give a textural break and crisp bite to balance things out, but the scattered shavings weren't enough.

-Dan

dansch wrote:I agree. I found the bread to be flatter, denser, and greasier than I expect from naan. I enjoyed the pork shoulder naan-wich I had a few weeks ago, but thought the combination of rich meat and slightly greasy bread was just a bit too heavy. I was hoping for more radish in there to give a textural break and crisp bite to balance things out, but the scattered shavings weren't enough.

-Dan

Dan-

You described exactly what I thought about the pork shoulder naan-wich. Thanks for your words!

-Mary

I've eaten there twice more since my initial post. The chicken thigh with orange sauce and cabrales (blue cheese) was the weakest thing I've had, mainly because the balance was off (too much blue cheese, not much orange) and the naan seemed a bit off texturally, a bit dry and cracking apart as I ate.

On the other hand, the short rib sandwich today was terrific-- wonderfully tender and flavorful meat set off by a tart tomato-herb creamy sauce and some fresh, lightly grilled purple onions. And the texture of the naan seemed much better, still not as big and fluffy as at Khan BBQ, say, but more in that direction than the time before. This one, certainly, lived up to the promise of messy and gooey in all the best ways.

I picked up from Gaztrowagon last night & just wanted to mention that the naan was much more naan-like than my previous visit. I could also see them rolling out the dough and cooking it in the oven. It makes me think that maybe the oven wasn't working or something on my first visit so they were using something totally different? Anyway, the bread this time around improved the experience for sure.

Mike G wrote:the naan seemed a bit off texturally, a bit dry and cracking apart as I ate.

That was my experience as well. I had the pork shoulder naan-wich. The pork was very good for it's style (braised, not smoked), but the naan itself was very dry and crumbled apart as soon as I picked up the sandwich, er, naan wich. It reminded me of day old pita bread more than naan. The staff was extremely nice, though.

I've had both kinds of "naan" there and at the risk of stating the obvious, the crackly kind is just the soft kind that's been sitting around a while. With increased business that problem will hopefully take care of itself, but I too would prefer an actual fluffy naan.

Yeah, clearly, though it may also be that one batch is not as good as the next. There aren't "two kinds," intentionally anyway.

The weird thing was that they had just rolled out some dough and portioned it into individual naan size when I ordered, yet rather than take one of those pieces of dough and throw it in the oven, they used a pre-baked and reheated for a few seconds version that they had sitting around. If it hadn't been my first visit, I would have known better and asked for fresh baked.

I agree with the previous poster that the naan is fresher when they are busier. I was there last week with some friends and our naan was made to order. I had the lobster roll and it was fantastic albeit messy but super fresh.

my friend took me here on Saturday. Had the pork shoulder, and the chicken thigh with mushrooms

SO good. Will be back ASAP. Naan was fresh out of the oven, saw them making it since it was busy.

Had the oatmeal cookie pies for dessert - I saved mine till later, and it was delicious.

I tried to go back for a second visit this Saturday, but got there at 10:55 and the place was locked up. Ended up going to Ghareeb Nawaz and rolling my own naan-wich, as it were.

-Dan

dansch wrote:I tried to go back for a second visit this Saturday, but got there at 10:55 and the place was locked up.

10:55 AM or PM?

tarte tatin wrote:

dansch wrote:I tried to go back for a second visit this Saturday, but got there at 10:55 and the place was locked up.

10:55 AM or PM?

PM.

There were a couple of guys in there cleaning up, dealing with the register, etc. Edgewater at night isn't really hopping and I can't blame them for closing up a little early if it's quiet.

-Dan

dansch wrote:

tarte tatin wrote:

dansch wrote:I tried to go back for a second visit this Saturday, but got there at 10:55 and the place was locked up.

10:55 AM or PM?

PM.

There were a couple of guys in there cleaning up, dealing with the register, etc. Edgewater at night isn't really hopping and I can't blame them for closing up a little early if it's quiet.

-Dan

I live in A-Ville, and it kinda bummed me out when I moved there and noticed that nothing was open past 10, and that was pushing it. It'd be nice if there were some late night places - I mean, it IS the city of Chicago. I had more late night places in Peoria around where I used to live.

It's like going back to Chowhound in 2002, a thread about a new restaurant that consists entirely of type and no visuals, so I went back to Gaztro-Wagon today for a late lunch with the intention of taking pictures, and—



look who had the same idea!

Steve Dolinsky and his two-man crew shooting Matt Maroni and his two-woman crew.



I took some pictures of my lobster naanwich (good, but I like the hot gooey ones like the short ribs best) but they just didn't have the savoir-faire of the ones Dolinsky was shooting. So here's a preview of what you'll see on the upcoming Hungry Hound segment:


Food styling by The Hungry Hound. All rights reserved.

And what I hope you won't see.

A new item at Gaztro-Wagon, made by Fritz Pastry but apparently exclusive, is visible in the back of that food shot: oatmeal cookies with some kind of frosting in between them. Not sure oatmeal cookies are one of those sweets that can be "decadent," but if they can, these are them.

A couple more shots:



They're rolled out in a pasta machine, then baked for about 30 seconds, just long enough to firm them up and stop the rise.



I think the naan are getting better, more like Devon naan. They seem fluffier, with more bubbles.

I tagged along as Dolinsky & crew prepared to set up a shot out back, where is parked the Batmobile of food...



Matt plans to be at City Hall applying for a license first thing Monday, and maybe by next weekend, he'll be out feeding the inebriatedly hungry.

I made it over there today for lunch. All in all, pretty good but nothing great. Now, if it was 1AM and I was walking out of a bar and saw the "Wagon," I'd say I had hit a home run.

The naan themselves were pretty decent. Fluffy enough, not the least bit greasy, and fresh. I tried three of the offerings (I was with a friend) - the lamb (with gyro fixins'), the pork shoulder and the lobster roll.

The lamb was my favorite. The lamb tasted like lamb and worked well with both the naan and the sauce, which didn't overpower the lamb at all. The pork shoulder was good, but needed work. It was a little tough so I'd say it was pulled too early, and it really wasn't seasoned much at all. I guess with the radish, cilantro and queso fresco combination, I was expecting the pork to have some Mexican flavors, but it did not. The lobster roll was decent enough, although the lobster pieces were a bit small (not chunks) and there was a little too much mayonnaise. But I thought it worked alright in the naan, which surprised me because I tend to be more of a traditionalist when it comes to lobster rolls.

So all in all, not bad at all and I'm sure I'll return (although I'd be happier running into it leaving a bar). I'd bet that if they park it in the Loop at lunchtime, they'll make a killing.

And as for the service: very quick and very friendly.

They were in front of 300 E Randolph for a while today around noon unitl some bike cops ordered them away. I was lucky enough to have a very tasty wild boar, olive, fennel naanwich with yogurt sauce. There were probably 60-80 people in line when they had to leave. That's a shame.

Did the owner not have all his regulatory approvals? What the heck? I loved the food and the concept of checking the web for locations and all is cool but this will not really be sustainable if you line up and wait and they have to pull up anchor.

champs2005 wrote:They were in front of 300 E Randolph for a while today around noon unitl some bike cops ordered them away. I was lucky enough to have a very tasty wild boar, olive, fennel naanwich with yogurt sauce. There were probably 60-80 people in line when they had to leave. That's a shame.

Did the owner not have all his regulatory approvals? What the heck? I loved the food and the concept of checking the web for locations and all is cool but this will not really be sustainable if you line up and wait and they have to pull up anchor.

Really disappointing to hear this news. This was such a highly publicized event, I cannot imagine that Matt Maroni didn't have everything in order but who knows for sure. I'd say more but since we don't know for sure the exact circumstances of the truck's forced departure, I'll hold off (for now).

=R=

Update: my co-workers who were in line were told by staff that the truck ran out of food. There were police writing stuff down and inspecting but my co-workers said it did not appear that the truck was issued a ticket. Still a shame because there were TONS of people in line turned away. I wonder how many naanwiches they can pack in that truck?