Roots Caribbean Cuisine has been open on Morse east of the L for over a year after taking over a tiny hole in the wall from another Jamaican joint.
I pass it often as I walk to Morse but have had little opportunity to stop by. My curiosity peeked yesterday, and I finally made it in.
While not mind-blowing, my plate of food embodied the best qualities of what I have come to expect from Caribbean places - fluffy rice and beans (with a hint of coconut milk), hearty stews (I had stew chicken) and well-fried plantains. Having nailed all three, I was more than happy to declare Roots a good alternative to similar spots in Rogers Park. What really put it over the top, however was a beautiful scoop of yellow potato salad (I'm a sucker for this stuff) that was a fine departure from the starchy glop often served at other places. It reminded me of my mom's Magyar Russian Salad, which is redolent with egg yolk (no jarred mayonnaise) and hence takes on a vivid yellow color. I think the same thing is going on here. Also, hearty bits of perfectly cooked (read, not over-cooked and rubbery) egg whites laid a foundation for the buttery potatoes. Win win for roots.
The proprietors couldn't be nicer, and in an age where shabby stalwarts like Salam and Ghareeb Nawaz have renovated their once grease stained digs for the simulacrum of something fancier, it is nice to know that there are a few places left whose surroundings echo the humble food served.
Roots Caribbean
1343 W. Morse Ave.
Chicago, IL 60626
773-262-9588
Oh yeah, the pics.


"By the fig, the olive..." Surat Al-Teen, Mecca 95:1"