Fonda del Mar reopens as Don Diablo restaurant

Fonda del Mar has had something of a checkered history. Opening to great acclaim in an unlikely setting, winning a GNR (I believe in its first year?), packing in enthusiasts, delighting with innovative Mexican fare and house-made margaritas . . . then faltering a bit, losing some staff, eventually closing, reopening with promise as Taqueria Don Diablo, then losing its footing altogether and shuttering, seemingly for good.

I'm happy to report that Don Diablo has reopened! Not as a taqueria (an experiment that didn't bear fruit), but as something quite akin to the original Fonda del Mar. My sweetie and I had dinner there Saturday, and the kitchen is shining again. We shared a starter of huitlacoche quesadillas, and the result far surpassed the description: earthy, funky huitlacoche and fresh cheese, wrapped in their homemade tortillas with bright guacamole and a spicy red salsa. Truly delicious. We could've made a meal of these lovelies.

For dinner I had the tilapia in poblano creme with rice and grilled zucchini: a seminal dish from the Fonda menu that didn't disappoint. Sure, tilapia's a humble fish, but Don Diablo's kitchen brings out its best: flaky and clean as fresh-caught whitefish, with grill marks that make for a nice carmelization. No bells and whistles here: just a simple, honest preparation that lets the flavors marry without any one element overpowering the other. It's not a dish for spice lovers, but there are plenty of those to choose from.

The entree menu bears a striking resemblance to the former Fonda menu, but the starters have some bright new stars. They've bulked up their vegetarian menu as well. We didn't have dessert, so I can't offer any report on the sweet side of the menu.

We were one of just three tables on Saturday night, so I think they could use some word-of-mouth buzz. There's still not a clear sense they're as deft with service and marketing as they are with plating and ingredients. But these guys have heart, and they're committed to making things work this time around. Based on my experience Saturday, the food is as spectacular as Fonda's best days. I hope folks on this forum may pay them another visit soon.

Don Diablo (formerly Fonda del Mar)
3749 W. Fullerton
(773) 489-3748