Ikram, a couture cafe

I can't stand most kinds of shopping, the exception being when there is lunch. I wrote, not too long ago, about how malls are for eating, too. After dining at the new Ikram cafe yesterday, I'd like to add that apparently fashion temples ('cause Ikram is the closest thing we've got) can offer good--heck, even destination--eats as well.

Though limited to about 10 tables, the second-floor Ikram dining room is IMHO one of the most exquisite that I've experienced in Chicago. It's as if Anish Kapoor's glorious Marsyas (2002) had been put--expertly--to a mighty mandoline.

Kapoor's Marsyas:

(Photo via the Tate Modern)

Ikram cafe:


Not entirely evident in my photo, but here dark wood floors, rich brocades and metallic flourishes offset the deep red of the new building's sleek façade. Plentiful natural light and the generous spacing of tables further invite lingering.

The changing lunch menu is simple and casual, with soups, salads, sandwiches (including a bison burger) and desserts. For me, dining at Ikram was all in the details. To start, I certainly don't need this kind of attention in my everyday life and perhaps not surprising given the couture context, but how refreshing it was to be offered a black napkin in lieu of the white napkin at my table setting because I was wearing black! Really, fine dining, at least that I've experienced, could learn something here.

And all lunches should start this way (or just with warm gougères):

Trio of radishes:


Bread service:


Gougères:


At my server's recommendation, I ordered the grilled zucchini, piquillo, smoked mozzarella, avocado and basil sandwich. The side of the day was shoestring potatoes.



This was thoroughly fantastic. I might have preferred a softer bread, maybe something more like a focaccia, but otherwise the quality and balance of ingredients were outstanding. I see disappointment ahead when those killer shoestrings are replaced with a different side. 

To drink, I considered ordering one of the touted fresh juices, but I was so content with the house lemon-mint water that I forgot about getting something else. (La Lagartija still has the best house water in town.)

Service was very friendly and attentive without being overbearing. (Ikram Goldman was also having lunch.)  The cafe lends new meaning to "conspicuous consumption," and I'm all for it.

Ikram
15 E Huron St
Chicago, IL 60611
312-587-1000
http://www.ikram.com