Is it possible that this GNR and beloved producer of what may be the best Jibarito in the city that invented the same is only passingly mentioned across multiple threads on multiple subjects, yet has no thread to call its own? Allow a long-overdue first time visitor to give Papa's Cache Sabroso a well-deserved thread to call home, then.
What a charming little place this is! Papa's oozes GNR from every pore, bringing an almost goofy yet still somehow charming island vibe to a stretch of Division on an otherwise grey and dreary October day in Chicago. To step through the door is to be transported, by the change in light, the change in warmth, the change in volume, the change in energy, and above all the change in scent, which is absolutely devastating.
Seated with my ladylove and sister, a Coco Rico in hand, we managed a little less variety with our ordering than I would have liked, all three of us unable to resist the steak Jibarito. As such, seduced by the spinning chickens behind the register as I was, I ordered a few pieces of dark chicken to boot. The wait was far too long, but only because the smell wafting off the kitchen was such a tease.

It is beyond embarrassing -- bordering on scandalous -- that I consumed my first Jibarito only ten hours ago, but I trust I've started in a good spot. I'm willing to believe this sandwich gets better, though I'm having a hard time imagining how. Tender and flavorful meat rests with shredded lettuce and sliced tomato, a layer of melted cheese (what variety was that?) and a tangy slick of mayonnaise all pressed between those thick, crisp, garlicky fried plantains. There's a little genius in this creation, and hats off to Juan Figueroa even if this particular sandwich wasn't of his making. How has this not caught on outside of Chicago yet? Or have I just not noticed?

The pollo chon certainly wasn't part of our stated mission, but turned out to be a real treat. I know there have been some complaints of dryness, but I can't imagine that adjective being applied to this meat. It wasn't the juiciest bird I've tasted, but it was still wonderfully moist, and a bit of that juice was, I suspect, traded in for the meat's playfully tender resistance and the pleasantly sticky and sweetly caramelized skin. This bird was not wanting for moisture. Really delicious stuff, and I wish I hadn't learned about the house-made hot sauce after the fact.
I know I won't get back again before this trip is over... I'm too driven to try to plug as many gaping holes in my Chicago dining experience as possible in a very limited time frame. But this is a warm and delicious and cheery place where I'd really like to park and eat the menu sometime.
Papa's Cache Sabroso2517 W. Division Street
Chicago, IL 60622
773-862-8313
Dominic Armato
Dining Critic
The Arizona Republic and
azcentral.com