Embeya is projected to open later next month, but I was one of the fortunate few lucky enough to enjoy a complimentary preview dinner this past Wednesday at Tenzing Wine & Spirits. According to their website, Embeya offers progressive Asian cuisine. I would describe Embeya as upscale, Asian-fusion.

The chef at Embeya is Thai Dang, who was previously a sous chef under Laurent Gras at L20, and most recently served as Chef de Cuisine at Ria. Chef Thai Dang was born in Vietnam, the youngest of ten children, hence the name Embeya which translates to the "little one." And at last Wednesday's dinner, Dang's former mentor, Gras, was in the house to work with his protoge:
Dang is second from left, Gras far rightThe evening started with a couple of cocktails prepared by beverage director Danielle Pizzutillo: one gin-based featuring sake, yuzu, ginger and rhubarb; the other a take on a mai tai, but elevated with almond foam, dehydrated pineapple and cherry dust. Both were fantastic and nicely refreshing on a hot summer evening. The very next evening I sipped another one of Danielle's cocktails (rhubarb based) at the Green City Market BBQ and very much enjoyed that too. So many restaurants have elevated the cocktail to a modern art form these days, but sometimes forget that taste is as critical as appearance. My first impressions are that Danielle is very talented and succeeds in both the art and flavor categories, and that Embeya might even be worth visiting for cocktails alone.
While sipping cocktails, we were treated to hors' dourves: a headcheese and foie gras "banh mi," an almond-crusted shrimp dumpling and an oyster with rhubarb and lemongrass. The banh mi was not so much a banh mi as a one-bite amuse, but it was just outstanding - rich, flavorful and just enough heat to bring it all together. The oysters were also terrific. The shrimp dumpling was beautifully fried, but had a hard time standing next to the bolder flavored banh mi and the terrific oysters.
We were then seated for dinner. Our first bite was a kona kampachi with charred cherries and cucumber. The plating was beautiful and I was really beginning to get the sense of the type of upscale, Asian-fusion restaurant that Embeya aims to become. However, this dish didn't tickle my tongue with much excitement.
But the next course certainly did: a single scallop, in the shell, atop what I believe was salt, and set aflame. It was served aside a bowl of garlic noodles with summer vegetables. The gentle flames stirring below the scallop might have been sexy in appearance, but more importantly the scallop delivered terrific flavor. The noodles and vegetables were tasty, albeit a mere sideshow compared to the scallop.
Several dishes were then served family style. A bone marrow-stuffed squid (with ginger and garlic scapes) was really delicious. I hope that when they serve this dish at the restaurant they hit the squid with more char. But Embeya is weeks from opening, operating in a foreign kitchen, with limited staff . . . I'd be content if I received a dish this good at any restaurant.
Bone-marrow stuffed squidServed at the same time as the squid was what might have been my favorite course of the evening, a unique green papaya salad. Shred freshly in the kitchen, and unique in that it also featured a Vietnamese beef jerky, along with culantro and crispy shallots, this salad shined. I sure hope this papaya salad reaches the menu at Embeya because it was terrific. What it might have lacked in fish funk commonly found at Vietnamese restaurants (and heat from Thai papaya salads), it more than made up for with the jerky and fresh herbs. I could have curled up in a corner, just me and a bowl of this salad, and been pretty damn happy for hours, if not days. If only my camera phone liked it as much as me.
House shred papaya salad with Vietnamese beef jerkyNext were Dover sole cooked (steamed?) inside a banana leaf; Wagyu beef with a soy glaze, watercress, pickled red onions; garlic roasted cauliflower; fried rice and (sake-?)braised bamboo and mushrooms. The sole was beautifully cooked, light and delicate, but with more subtle flavors than many of the other dishes. The beef was also cooked beautifully and paired wonderfully with the excellent fried rice. Too often fried rice focuses on everything but the rice, but not here, where each grain seemed properly touched by the wok, and seasoned just enough to taste the rice and understand it was fried. And this enemy of cauliflower actually enjoyed Embeya's version, albeit not as much as the more exotic bamboo and mushrooms.
Dover sole in banana leaf
Wagyu beefDessert was certainly no afterthought, and likewise shined. There was sticky rice with coconut and cardamom-cured mango, which was very good, although the cardamom was quite subtle. But as a lover of cardamom, I'll admit that it is dangerous to work with (like nutmeg), because just a bit too much can overwhelm a dish.
Sticky rice with coconut and cardamom-cured mangoThere was also a tofu custard with a citrus creme (the custard was like a denser creme caramel), which I just loved (but forgot to photograph). If the custard is on the dessert menu, I think it's a must order. Finally, a beautiful platter of jackfruit, lychee, rambutan, dragon fruit and longan.
Clockwise from top left, rambutan, longan, dragon fruit and lychee (jackfruit not pictured)In addition to cocktails, I thought there was a very nice and interesting selection of wines picked by sommelier Griffin Lawler, including a Sake, two Rieslings and a Tempranillo. Overall, a very enjoyable dinner and I can't wait to see what this group can accomplish. I love my casual, neighborhood Asian restaurants (Thai food is my favorite), but I think Chicago lacks in (and needs) upscale, Asian-fusion spots (Red Light started off big but eventually faded, Le Lan is gone and had faded well before its final exit, Sunda is adequate but the food does not excite me, and China Grill simply turned me off). If Embeya delivers at or even slightly above the level it delivered last week, then they should be in great shape. There is obviously quite a bit of talent on this team and they're shining well before their actual opening.
Embeya564 W. Randolph St., Chicago
312.612.5640