Quest For Kewpies in Chicagoland

No – not the dolls. That would be ghastly. It’s the burgers.

Perhaps you know them as 50’s-style burgers. Or, maybe the term Greasy Cheeseburger makes your little heart go pitty-pat. Or, the Picture-Worth-A-Thousand-Words that Da Beef posted on the Red Hot Ranch (viewtopic.php?f=14&t=27463) thread on New Year’s Day says it all for you.

However you describe them, you know one when you see it:
--a loosely packed patty or two of coarsely-ground simple meat (we love you, Edzo’s, for your high-quality upgrades, but they don’t apply here)
--a slice (or, even better, two) of plain, old American cheese
--a basic bun (no pretzel-parentage or ciabatta-chops desired) whose primary requirement is to hold together during the short time it takes you to snarf down the burger
--the simplest of toppings (not fancy enough to be called condiments): mustard; ketchup; onions; pickles

Or, you can describe what they are NOT: trendy; Kuma’s; creative; talked-about; to-die-for; ginormous; fusion; or costing more than $5 (you can always order another one)

The point of this quest is simple: It’s getting tiresome justifying yet another trip to Racine, particularly when it is always dangerous to eat a couple of Kewpie doubles and then drive so close to Wells Brothers on the way home. Everybody understands why you do it during the five-week season of Georgia-Peaches-Off-A-Truck, but they look at you really funny when the temperature stays below zero and the snow is flying.

So, good LTH-ers, here is my request: Please recommend your favorite place in Chicagoland (in addition to the RHR locations at The Bunny Hutch and Ashland-Belmont) for the type of 50’s-style, greasy cheeseburger that is so meaningful to the non-trendy (and, typically, older) forum members whose eyes still mist over at the thought of Henry’s (not McD) and The Kewpie.

Thanx for your help.

This topic has been addressed, with posts going back over 9 years:
http://www.lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=166
http://www.lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=12178
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=528

I wrote a piece for Time Out about this subject last year, or the first half of a piece at least. You'll have to take a trip, maybe not as far as Racine, to NW Indiana for my favorite at Schoop's. That's a Burger and Top Notch are worthy options down south. I hate to say it, but you could do a lot worse than Culver's as well. But alas, for a great hand formed, griddled patty in a centrally located spot, you'll have to order wisely at Edzo's Lincoln Park.

Yeah, NW Indiana is the place for those kind of burgers. Miner Dunn in Highland is my favorite, but Schoops runs a close second. Johnsen's Blue Top Drive-In (up the street from MD) is the quintessential early 60's burger experience (if it is still open). Closer to home, Edzo's GRIDDLED burgers are a very good rendition (don't be so quick to write them off) and Culver's does make an acceptable version. Bill's in Evanston also makes a decent no-frills griddled burger, though I don't believe the patties are hand formed (then again, I don't think Henry's or Kewpies were either)

jimd wrote:No – not the dolls. That would be ghastly. It’s the burgers.

Minor correction: Kewpie is the doll (and mayonnaise), Kewpee is the hamburg that makes your heart go flippity-flop.

Sounds like you might've enjoyed Wonderburger (11045 S Kedzie).



Unfortunately they went out of business a few days ago after nearly sixty years (though they reportedly will reopen under new management).

Ever try the double cheeseburger known as the Big Baby? Best is from Nicky's at 6142 S Archer.



Pre-fab patties and sesame seed bun but otherwise meets your specs (assuming grilled onions work for you). Big Babies have been the local blue-collar burger of the Southwest Side for almost half a century. Two-and-a-half bucks.

jimd wrote:. . . the type of 50’s-style, greasy cheeseburger that is so meaningful to the non-trendy (and, typically, older) forum members whose eyes still mist over at the thought of Henry’s (not McD) and The Kewpie.

You know there's a single Henry's Hamburgers remaining in the US, right? It's in Benton Harbor, Michigan.





I was a Henry's fan as a child and frankly the burger they serve didn't live up to my fond memories.

I love many of the burgers mentioned in previous posts (Schoop's is one of my favorites anywhere) but most don't strike me as being much in the Kewpee/Henry's mold. Bill's fits.

I am afraid that you will not find any authentic Kewpee ( that is the way it should be spelled) in Chicagoland.
Once upon a time in the 1920's and 1930's there were close to 200 Kewpee hamburger restaurants in the Midwest.
It was perhaps at the time the largest hamburger franchise chain in the U.S, long before the (in)famous other one started in DesPlaines.
Nowadays there are only 6 of them left, if I am not mistaken, all of them in 3 states, 3 in Ohio where the original HQ is located in Lima, Lansing, MI, which I did not like as much as what is for me the original in downtown Racine, WI.
I have been a loyal customer to the Racine place twice a year since 1968, but I have to admit that during my most 2 recent visits, the nostalgia of the whole affair was not what it used to be. Perhaps due to various changes of owners, managers, cooks, and possibly suppliers. But I still enjoy seating at the counter and having a double with everything, an order of fries, and my wife, a Racine native, swears that their rootbeer is as good as the one she drank there in the 1950's.

Sounds like you might've enjoyed Wonderburger (11045 S Kedzie).



Unfortunately they went out of business a few days ago after nearly sixty years (though they reportedly will reopen under new management).

You could try Parts and Labor

What began as family burger joint has become a Chicago Southside institution. After Russ Grant’s father opened Wonderburger in 1954, generations of the Grant family have staffed the restaurant[edit]. Known for their classic griddle burger, famously topped with a special sauce, Grant was moved to open his homage to the family business in December 2013.

Serving the classic griddle burger alongside a modern soda program, beers that run the gamut from cult favorite to craft, and a carefully curated spirit selection, Parts and Labor brings a taste of a Southside legacy to Logan Square.

2700 N Milwaukee Ave, Chicago, IL 60647
(773) 360-7840
7 Days a week
Sunday – Friday 4pm-2am
Saturdays 4pm-3am
FREE PARKING in back.

Da Beef reported that the burgers at the walkup DQ on Lake Ave in Glenview are old school 30's style. They are only served at this location (to his knowledge) - it is not the usual DQ burger. I don't expect this location to be open until spring, but I could be wrong.

Food Nut wrote:You could try Parts and Labor

What began as family burger joint has become a Chicago Southside institution. After Russ Grant’s father opened Wonderburger in 1954, generations of the Grant family have staffed the restaurant[edit]. Known for their classic griddle burger, famously topped with a special sauce, Grant was moved to open his homage to the family business in December 2013.

Serving the classic griddle burger alongside a modern soda program, beers that run the gamut from cult favorite to craft, and a carefully curated spirit selection, Parts and Labor brings a taste of a Southside legacy to Logan Square.

Yes, I learned of Parts and Labor while looking for information on Wonderburger's closing but decided not to mention it until I'd eaten there. Sounds intriguing. Anyone been? I'm impressed with the "carefully curated spirit selection" that includes $3 shots of Old Heaven Hill, Fernet-Branca and Malört. From the menu and pictures on their website it looks like the curly-Q fries made the move to Logan Square but has the special (chili) sauce been abandoned in favor of mayonnaise?

Rene G wrote: I love many of the burgers mentioned in previous posts (Schoop's is one of my favorites anywhere) but most don't strike me as being much in the Kewpee/Henry's mold. Bill's fits.

Jefe wrote:I wrote a piece for Time Out about this subject last year, or the first half of a piece at least. You'll have to take a trip, maybe not as far as Racine, to NW Indiana for my favorite at Schoop's. That's a Burger and Top Notch are worthy options down south. I hate to say it, but you could do a lot worse than Culver's as well. But alas, for a great hand formed, griddled patty in a centrally located spot, you'll have to order wisely at Edzo's Lincoln Park.

You've got me thinking, once again. I may have hastily recommended my list of favorites for hand-formed, griddled burgers, when the Kewpie style may be more precise, indeed. Admittedly, I haven't been up (or down, to the right) to Kewpie since I embarked on my quest for hand-formed, old-fashioned burgers. So the first question I have is– does Kewpie hand form their patties? Beyond this, what sets the Kewpie style? Small patty, 1/6 lb.? Certainly, my recs. serve bigger patties closer to a 1/4 lb. and even larger (Schoop's for instance, seems to nudge toward 1/2 lb.). And toppings that veer minimal, as outlined in Mike G's "Quest for the 30s-style burger" post?

Mike G wrote: The focus with such a burger is the harmonious blending of multiple elements-- a soft white bun, mustard, pickle slices, and onion (raw dice or grilled rings), cheese optional.

This sounds like the standard toppings at Kewpie, though I do recall ketchup on my last visit.

jimd wrote:Perhaps you know them as 50’s-style burgers. Or, maybe the term Greasy Cheeseburger makes your little heart go pitty-pat. Or, the Picture-Worth-A-Thousand-Words that Da Beef posted on the Red Hot Ranch (http://www.lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=27463) thread on New Year’s Day says it all for you.

However you describe them, you know one when you see it:
--a loosely packed patty or two of coarsely-ground simple meat (we love you, Edzo’s, for your high-quality upgrades, but they don’t apply here)
--a slice (or, even better, two) of plain, old American cheese
--a basic bun (no pretzel-parentage or ciabatta-chops desired) whose primary requirement is to hold together during the short time it takes you to snarf down the burger
--the simplest of toppings (not fancy enough to be called condiments): mustard; ketchup; onions; pickles

Aside from the OP's crush on Beef's pic of the decidedly In-N-Out style burger at RHR, they also seems to fancy the basic set of fast food burger condiments. I too prefer my burgers dressed spartanly. And in the case of most of my recs., lettuce and tomato come standard with the order, though I always order without the extra roughage.

Anyway, I love old fashioned burgers of all stripes. Just fascinated by their specific schemes.

Jefe wrote:You've got me thinking, once again. I may have hastily recommended my list of favorites for hand-formed, griddled burgers, when the Kewpie style may be more precise, indeed. Admittedly, I haven't been up (or down, to the right) to Kewpie since I embarked on my quest for hand-formed, old-fashioned burgers. So the first question I have is– does Kewpie hand form their patties? Beyond this, what sets the Kewpie style? Small patty, 1/6 lb.? Certainly, my recs. serve bigger patties closer to a 1/4 lb. and even larger (Schoop's for instance, seems to nudge toward 1/2 lb.). And toppings that veer minimal, as outlined in Mike G's "Quest for the 30s-style burger" post?

I, too, suggested some burgers that don't match Kewpee specs exactly. Since there don't seem to be any Kewpee clones around Chicago, we have no alternative.

Kewpee in Racine smashes their one-sixth-pound patties directly on the griddle. Wish I had a photo but this passage from George Motz explains it well.

In Hamburger America, George Motz wrote:Kewpee [in Racine] does not use a patty machine like its sister restaurant in Lima, Ohio. In fact, there are very few similarities between the two Kewpees. Owner and lead grillperson Rick Buehrens told me, "Here, you'll get a totally different burger than at the Ohio Kewpees." For starters, Rick has eschewed the original Kewpee method of forming square patties in favor of the even more traditional method of smashing balls of beef. He uses an ice cream scoop to form loose balls of fresh-ground beef and can produce six balls to the pound. In the morning, trays are filled with the balls and kept cold in the back. During a busy rush, Rick will take an entire tray, dump it onto the large flattop griddle, then sort and smash the mess into perfect patties.

Jefe wrote:

Mike G wrote: The focus with such a burger is the harmonious blending of multiple elements-- a soft white bun, mustard, pickle slices, and onion (raw dice or grilled rings), cheese optional.

This sounds like the standard toppings at Kewpie, though I do recall ketchup on my last visit.

Kewpee in Racine does indeed add ketchup. A lot of ketchup, in fact. Motz quotes Buehrens as saying the ketchup to mustard ratio has increased over the years. I don't think they routinely add ketchup at the "original" Kewpee in Lima, just mustard, sliced raw onions and "pickle on top." I don't make any claims the following photos are absolutely representative but I'm pretty sure I ordered both burgers without customization (and the burgers were similar on multiple visits).

Kewpee in Racine


Kewpee in Lima (Elizabeth St)


By the way, if that square burger in Lima is indeed machine formed, it looks like time to call the serviceman and have the patty machine adjusted.

The Kewpee's in Lansing, MI, which is the one I am most familiar with, is famous for their olive burger, which is topped with a "relish" made with roughly chopped green olives and mayo. Does the Racine Kewpee's have an olive burger on the menu?

stevez wrote:Does the Racine Kewpee's have an olive burger on the menu?

No.

Rene G wrote:I, too, suggested some burgers that don't match Kewpee specs exactly. Since there don't seem to be any Kewpee clones around Chicago, we have no alternative.

Kewpee in Racine smashes their one-sixth-pound patties directly on the griddle. Wish I had a photo but this passage from George Motz explains it well.

I got this one. Not only hand smashed but if you order with cheese they melt it thru directly on the griddle.


Sitting at the counter at Kewpee (Racine, WI)


Kewpee in the sunshine

Truth is there's not many place like Kewpee anywhere. I still think they're one of the best burgers in a big burger state. My ideal style as well. Smashburger might satisfy your craving since you could build one to order but they use sliced red onion and are more like Schoop's though not as good. I like it for a fast food offering though. Truth be told if you bring your own sliced pickles to RHR, I think that's as close as you'll get.


Smashburger with everything no ketchup

Continuing on with places that are almost like that of what you're looking for but not quite is the always forgotten Harlo Grill in Melrose Park.


24/7 Greasy Eats on North Avenue

While I prefer they're Harlo Burger, basically a Juicy Lucy, they make a very respectable old school double cheeseburger. A lifetime soldier, always there when you need it.


Double Cheeseburger from Harlo Grill

Harlo Grill
2400 West North Avenue
Melrose Park, IL 60160
(708) 344-8353

Rene G wrote:

Food Nut wrote:You could try Parts and Labor

What began as family burger joint has become a Chicago Southside institution. After Russ Grant’s father opened Wonderburger in 1954, generations of the Grant family have staffed the restaurant[edit]. Known for their classic griddle burger, famously topped with a special sauce, Grant was moved to open his homage to the family business in December 2013.

Serving the classic griddle burger alongside a modern soda program, beers that run the gamut from cult favorite to craft, and a carefully curated spirit selection, Parts and Labor brings a taste of a Southside legacy to Logan Square.

Yes, I learned of Parts and Labor while looking for information on Wonderburger's closing but decided not to mention it until I'd eaten there. Sounds intriguing. Anyone been? I'm impressed with the "carefully curated spirit selection" that includes $3 shots of Old Heaven Hill, Fernet-Branca and Malört. From the menu and pictures on their website it looks like the curly-Q fries made the move to Logan Square but has the special (chili) sauce been abandoned in favor of mayonnaise?

From Facebook:

Grant's Wonderburger
Friends and Family,
The sale of Wonderburger fell through yesterday. So, Karen has decided that we are going to reopen tomorrow, January 9th! Wonderburger is still for sale, but the McCormick/Grant family will be up and running it again until it is sold. We thank you again for all the support.

Anyone interested in meeting for lunch to check them out--I'd be up for it either tomorrow or Friday?

I went to Parts & Labor last night for dinner, actually. I thought the burger was a very good representation of the style (although I've never been to an actual Kewpee location). They use shredded lettuce, which somewhat mitigates the "extra roughage" problem discussed above. My only complaint was that they use far too much mayo for my taste, and no mustard. There is mustard on the table, though, so one half of that problem can be remedied.

Onion rings and fried pickle coins were also excellent, maybe better than the burger. I'll definitely return.

stevez wrote:The Kewpee's in Lansing, MI, which is the one I am most familiar with, is famous for their olive burger, which is topped with a "relish" made with roughly chopped green olives and mayo. Does the Racine Kewpee's have an olive burger on the menu?

nsxtasy wrote:No.

As that link shows, olive burgers aren't listed on the menu at the Racine Kewpee. I actually gave them a call to see if olives might be available on special request. My question, "Do you offer olives as an optional topping for your burgers?" was met with confusion. I had to explain the concept of putting green olives on a hamburger. I think it's safe to say you have absolutely no chance of getting an olive burger there.

Olive burgers are a big deal in Michigan and they've long been offered at the Lansing Kewpee, probably since the late 1930s though they weren't on the original 1920s menu.

At the Kewpees in Lima (at least at the two I've been to) olives are available for an extra 25 cents. I'm not sure if that's a "relish" or naked olives. Other extra-charge additions are bacon, tomato and Miracle Whip. No-cost toppings are mustard, onions, pickles, ketchup, relish and lettuce. I think if you simply order a hamburg(er) you get the standard old-fashioned mustard, onions and pickles.

The menu at the Lima Kewpees is quite basic (especially compared to Lansing) but they still serve pie, one of the original menu items from the 1920s. They seem to take pie pretty seriously. At least six or eight varieties, including sugar cream, are available and it's not bad at all. I don't see pie listed on the non-Lima menus. Does anyone know if you can get a slice in Racine or Lansing?

Da Beef wrote:I got this one. Not only hand smashed but if you order with cheese they melt it thru directly on the griddle.

The Kewpee cheese method is interesting and might be more common than many realize. It's often said that Kewpee was the model for Wendy's. If you watch this 1989 Wendy's training video, you'll see (at about 2:30) they use the same cheese-on-the-griddle technique. If you watch the first part of the training film, note that Dave Thomas orders his burger (at about 2:00) with mustard, pickle and onion—just the way they did it at the "oldfayshond" Kewpee when he was an impressionable youngster.

Kewpies (in Racine), Schoop's and even Culver's serve burgers with patties in a lattice pattern. How are these patties formed?

Rene G wrote:Sounds like you might've enjoyed Wonderburger (11045 S Kedzie).



Unfortunately they went out of business a few days ago after nearly sixty years (though they reportedly will reopen under new management).

Actually the deal fell through. They are still open.
Grant's Wonderburger in Mount Greenwood Reopens After Sale Falls Through

MOUNT GREENWOOD — Karen McCormick was back at the grill of Grant's Wonderburger in Mount Greenwood on Thursday.

The owner of the popular lunch spot at 11045 S. Kedzie Ave. said good bye to many regulars on Dec. 31. A deal to sell the business was all set for the start of 2014, but it fell apart at the last minute, McCormick said.

Without a deal, Wonderburger reopened, seemingly without skipping a beat. Customers on Thursday ordered the signature Wonderburgers ($2.40) and baskets of the restaurant's famous curly fries ($1.60) as if the doors had never closed.

McCormick said few people even knew the business was for sale prior to the botched deal. Now, she's hopeful that the publicity surrounding the sale draws a new buyer.

"Hopefully, it's someone from the neighborhood," she said.

Alfred "Bill" Grant opened Wonderburger on March 8, 1954. He ran the tiny, 41-seat restaurant until he retired in 1988. It has since stayed within his family.

Wonderburger has actually been for sale for some time. A Century 21 agent had listed the business for $200,000.

On Thursday, customers seemed delighted that the deal was dead. One customer hugged her waitress saying, "I'm so happy to see you."

You know, an interesting old school burger is to be had at Hamburger Heaven in Elmhurst. I once heard that the "Big" burger there served as the inspiration for the Big Mac (I have no verification of that, but I heard it from a couple of different people). The burgers may not be worth the trip out to Elm City, but the root beer shakes are certainly destination worthy. They also make an Olive Burger, which is rare for a drive-in.

Harlo was my go-to spot when I lived in Elmhurst and needed to pull an all-nighter of writing for work and thus needed a change of pace at 3am for an hour. Although I usually went with the simple grilled cheese and bacon.

Hi,

In some respect's this topic was discussed about seven years ago, though framed slightly differently. Rather than as Kewpies hamburger it was a 1930's style hamburger. Back then Culver's had not yet entered the Chicago market. Schoops was known of though not many had visited.

Why isn't Chicago a GREAT hamburger town?

Regards,

A repeat recommendation, but the $3 burgers at Jimmy's (Woodlawn Tap, Hyde Park) which come plain on a plate with small piles of pickles and grilled onions on the side, are a crisp-edged throwback. Not loose hand-smashed and the bun is nothing special, but scratches the itch for me occasionally.