LAZ wrote:We don't have new chefs coming over from Germany and reaquainting us with the cuisine from a contemporary viewpoint.
stevez wrote:LAZ wrote:We don't have new chefs coming over from Germany and reaquainting us with the cuisine from a contemporary viewpoint.
Is there such a thing?
The dining room offers starters like Rabbit in Aspic with Winter Salad and Sliced Potatoes, Pickled Salmon with Dill sauce and Potato Pancakes or 'Steinpilz' Ravioli in Herbal sauce. (A Steinpilz is a yellow boletus mushroom popular in German cooking). Soups range from Franconian Potato Soup to a hearty Casserole of Salmon and Pike-Perch.
Entrees are mainly based on local dishes -- Noisettes of Suckling Pig in a Caraway and Ale sauce, served with Red Cabbage, Apple and Dumplings and Veal Liver Sauteed in Herbs with Chive sauce, Pureed Onion and Dumplings being just two examples of a mouth-watering selection.
Try a 'taste' of our current favorites
First Course
Venison Carpaccio
With Bacon Wrapped Port Wine Plums and Pumpkin Chutney
(Riesling, Monchof, "Estate" Germany 2002 ~6.50 gl)
Second Course
Taleggio-Pear Risotto
With Parmesan Broth
(Chardonnay, Sonoma Cutrer, Russian River CA 2003~9.75 gl)
Third Course
Wild Boar Stew
With Pretzel Dumplings and Lingonberries
(Pinot Noir, Witness Tree, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2002 $10.75 gl)
Feast upon such inventions as Crusty Pork Loin with rhubarb and celery Sauerkraut, Turkey Fillets with pepper brie and Black Forest ham, Light Potato Dumplings with Buttery Croutons, Cherry, Quark and Pumpernickel trifle, Pumpernickel Ice Cream, Stollen Bread and Butter Pudding.
This book should give many cooks a new perspective on German cooking. All of the ingredients traditionally associated with this cuisine appear, but veal, for example, shows up in a Riesling wine sauce as well as in Wiener schnitzel, and dumplings are scented with tarragon and tossed into a clear asparagus soup. Anderson, author of numerous cookbooks, and Wurz, a German native who works for the German Tourist Office in New York, have gathered recipes from the country's creative young chefs, regional home cooks, and their own files to provide an up-to-date look at the culinary scene.
Mike G wrote:New hope for German food.
dicksond wrote:Isn't there that whole white asparagus obsession thing every spring with all sorts of wild and traditional dishes using asparagus? Or am I confusing it with another cuisine?
Chicago Mike wrote:We love Resi's BierStube on Irving Park.... what a gem. Easily the best full-range of german beers on tap. The food is more "german bar food"... sausages / kraut mostly, but fits with the beer real nice you can almost fool yourself that it's a "meal".
Nearby, Laschet's Inn seems to be treading water, might put that on your "watchlist"... the beer selection and atmosphere just isn't as impressive as Resi's although they have a more extensive menu.
A buddy of mine, Mark Nelson owns a hair salon- Nelson Group, a few doors down from Christl's. I never knew it was German! And as far as Black Forest goes...if the property is big enough, maybe they can build TWO Walgreen's there! I'm sure Norwood or Pontarelli have there claws already entrenched in that property. At this point in my life i'd say i despise developers way more tLAZ wrote:The cooler weather has had us craving rib-sticking stuff, and we've been in the right neighborhoods to try several of our city's remaining German eateries. German food is what I think of as an orphaned cuisine in this city, along with Hungarian, Old World Jewish and classical French -- food-styles that are disappearing for reasons that include few recent immigrants, the assimilation and economic rise of subsequent generations and the unfashionableness of rich, heavy fare.
There are still a few good German places around, but they're closing fast. (Glunz Bavarian Haus, opened in 2003, was the first new German place to open in years. And it's an exception with considerable backing -- Glunz Bavarian is owned by a scion of one of Chicago's oldest German families, who own several local beer- and wine- related businesses, including Louis Glunz Beer, Louis Glunz Wines, Glunz Family Winery and the House of Glunz, the city's oldest wine and spirits store, opened in 1888 by Chicago's first Schlitz bottler.)
Black Forest Chalet
The death watch has begun for Black Forest Chalet in Morton Grove. When we headed there the other day after an unsuccessful attempt to get flu shots at the nearby Dominick's, we were appalled to see this sign outside:
Inside, folks confirmed that the 39-year-old restaurant is closing, though the date of its demise is yet undetermined. The property's owners need a zoning variance from the village before the strip mall plans can go through, but it seems all too likely they'll get it. (As if Morton Grove weren't chockablock with strip malls already.) Harry Vizethum, who's owned the place for about the past five years, is looking for a new space, they said, but nobody seemed too hopeful.
Black Forest was an outgrowth of the adjoining butcher shop and delicatessen (opened in 1961 and also doomed), where Vizethum makes the sausages, and the thing they do best is meat. Bland white bread comes in the bread basket . The red cabbage and other sides are nothing special. The strudel is soggy.
The sausages are sublime, however. We had an appetizer of Thuringer and two kinds of bratwurst, with delightfully contrasting flavors and textures, and pretty good kraut. I really liked smoky, succulent Kassler-style pork chops, served with excellent German-fried potatoes. The mushroom gravy on the Jaeger Schnitzel had good flavor, but gloppy texture.
I also enjoyed goulash soup, zesty with paprika and chunky with wurst, and Himself liked the robust Leberknodel Suppe (liver-dumpling soup).
The place is a bit shabby, and on the night we went, full of a largely blue-haired local clientele, some singing along with the music. If you go on a weekend, the live entertainment -- The Amazing Mike -- has to be seen to be believed.
Black Forest sausage plate
Black Forest Kassler ribs
Chicago Brauhaus
When we found ourselves in Lincoln Square late on a weeknight, the Chicago Brauhaus beckoned. The bar was full of older neighborhood types, including a white-haired gent in lederhosen -- he turned out to be with the band. The place was by no means full, but there were several tables filled with a mix of older and younger people, many of whom got up to dance to the mix of German songs and American pop numbers cranked out by the venerable members of the three-piece band.
I had to laugh when a group of 20-somethings who were obviously celebrating a birthday went up to dance to a romantic ballad. They had uneven numbers, so one fellow danced with his beer stein -- a large glass boot. Then he cut in on another couple and exchanged the stein for a live dance partner.
We enjoyed both the atmosphere and our Wiener Schnitzel and wurst and Kassler Rippchen special, and Himself liked the Leberknodel Suppe, though it's somewhat milder than Black Forest Chalet's. Chicago Brauhaus serves some very good black and rye breads, too. Chicago Brauhaus serves till midnight daily (closed Tuesdays). Chicago Brauhaus also dates to 1966.
Christl's Inn
We were a bit concerned about how late Christl's Inn in downtown Palatine stayed open, so we called while en route one Saturday. A man with a German accent told us 9:30 p.m., so we were taken aback to arrive just before 9 p.m. and find the "closed" sign out. We went into the empty restaurant ask again about the hours, and the matronly waitress said, "Oh, yes, we've been waiting for you." So of course we had to stay for dinner, earning evil glares from the bus boy. No other customers arrived before we left.
Christl's looks like a diner: tan Naugahyde booths on the bar side and worn wooden chairs with turquoise vinyl upholstery in the dining room, where tables are set with thick, white coffee cups, metal holders containing salt shakers and sugar packets, and glass boxes of coffee creamer. The walls, mostly covered in rec-room paneling, sport pictures rendered in a Sunday painter style, under a stained drop ceiling. A jukebox full of German tunes hunkers in a corner.
Meals here come with soup and salad -- we had bland liver dumpling and a pleasant beef barley. The house salad was mostly iceberg, though the warm bacon dressing was nice. The best thing we had was a special, breaded pork chops, crisp outside and moist and flavorful inside, served with good German fries. Himself found his Sauerbraten tender but less sour than he prefers; still, the gravy went well with the rather nice spatzle. The tender, house-made apple strudel, otherwise good, seemed a bit soggy; it may have been warmed in a microwave.
This seems like a place that would be better around 6 p.m., but the clock is ticking....
Glunz Bavarian Haus
773/472-HAUS
www.glunzbavarianhaus.com
4128 N. Lincoln Ave.
Chicago, IL 60618
House of Glunz
312/642-3000
www.houseofglunz.com
1206 N. Wells St.
Chicago, IL 60610
Black Forest Chalet
847/965-1642
847/965-3113 deli
www.blackforestmarket.com
8840 Waukegan Road
Morton Grove
Chicago Brauhaus
773/784-4444
www.chicagobrauhaus.com
4732 N. Lincoln Ave.
Chicago, IL 60625
Christl's Inn
847/991-1040
http://christlsusa.com
45 W. Slade St.
Palatine, IL 60067
Röckenwagner, Santa Monica, Calif.:
Try a 'taste' of our current favorites
First Course
Venison Carpaccio
With Bacon Wrapped Port Wine Plums and Pumpkin Chutney
(Riesling, Monchof, "Estate" Germany 2002 ~6.50 gl)
Second Course
Taleggio-Pear Risotto
With Parmesan Broth
(Chardonnay, Sonoma Cutrer, Russian River CA 2003~9.75 gl)
Third Course
Wild Boar Stew
With Pretzel Dumplings and Lingonberries
(Pinot Noir, Witness Tree, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2002 $10.75 gl)
sundevilpeg wrote:Rockenwagner closed recently, I hear tell.
Cathy2 wrote:Last night I was driving down Milwaukee Avenue, where I noticed a German restaurant I have not found any mention here:
Old Munich Inn
582 North Milwaukee Avenue
Wheeling, IL 60090
847-537-1222
Does anyone have experience at Munich?
Regards,
dicksond wrote:But Berghoff and Chef Paul both do a good business, and seem likely to endure into the next century...
Mike G wrote:Here's another German place I spotted out in the burbs which seems promising, and which you or somebody else will probably get to before I do.
It also has a questionable future, since (although the restaurant's site makes no mention of the fact) owner Fritz Gross apparently passed away a couple of years ago.
Gasthaus zur Linde
15 N. Grove Ave., Elgin, IL 60120
(847) 695-8828
ralphmans wrote:Cathy2 wrote:Last night I was driving down Milwaukee Avenue, where I noticed a German restaurant I have not found any mention here:
Old Munich Inn
582 North Milwaukee Avenue
Wheeling, IL 60090
847-537-1222
Does anyone have experience at Munich?
Regards,
Old Munich Inn is not a restaurant, just a local tavern serving mainly German beers. Food is 'available', at no charge during lunch and early evenings. They don't have a food license so the food is 'free', sandwiches, pizzas, cold cuts...etc.] Occasionally he has parties there with sausages, potato salad and more. Just buy a beer or two and enjoy the German music along with the food.
Antonius wrote:Chicago Mike wrote:Nearby, Laschet's Inn seems to be treading water, might put that on your "watchlist"... the beer selection and atmosphere just isn't as impressive as Resi's although they have a more extensive menu.
Laschet's is doing quite well, so far as I can tell, and I've been there quite a bit, on various days of the week and various times of day. Resi's gets the nod on breadth of beer selection but Laschet's is hardly poor in what it is has on hand.
Antonius
Drover wrote:I'm actually a little surprised Mirabell is still around. I only live 3 blocks from the place but I don't go there too often because as the evening goes on you never know if they're going to be open or closed. They'll close as early as 8:30 if nobody's there -- and the fact that they ever have the "luxury" of closing at that early for a lack of customers would suggest it's not doing well.