G Wiv wrote:Note to Chef Bayless, $2.50 for habanera salsa and $3 for escabeche, no matter they were both quite good, leaves a sour taste in my mouth.
saps wrote:I hate the chili relleno scam
saps wrote:I loved it the first time I went there many years ago, but I can't help echoing the opnions (sic) that it is not what it once was. I hate the chili relleno scam and the bar scam where they hoof everyone into the bar at opening before seating just to get some extra revenue.
T Comp wrote:More than a few years back we used to frequent the Saturday brunch not only for the great huevos dishes but also the leisurely and relaxed atmosphere that could be had at that time slot. Often times the place would be less than half full and never any eyes peering at your table. Of course that was then and this is now. Maybe someone who has been recently, can report if the brunch is still a more unhurried and civilized alternative?
ronnie_suburban wrote:
Frontera is one of those places that I respect but never really crave. I've never had bad food there but sometimes when I eat there, I feel like I'm experiencing a fairly distilled take on the cuisine the place intends to showcase, more than a genuine instance of it.
It's clear that there is a sincere love and appreciation behind what's being served at Frontera but as a diner, at times the food plays out like a well-intentioned homage more than a geunine example of it. It's a relatively costly experience where a diner can feel as if he or she is being held at arm's length from the food they are actually there to enjoy. While one cannot dismiss Frontera's focus on quality ingredients, regional authenticity or traditional preparation methods, it doesn't necessarily seem like the best to place in town to experience them. Instead, the overall dining can feel distant and soulless, especially compared to other local places. Of course, many of those 'other local places' exist specifically because of the trail that Rick Bayless blazed. On that basis, it would be impossible to dismiss the importance of Frontera Grill or its nearly immeasurable influence on the local dining scene. Still, when I crave really great, soul-satisfying Mexican food, Frontera doesn't often come to mind. It's just a bit too precious for me.
=R=
nsxtasy wrote:For those who enjoy Bayless's cuisine but object to the no-reservations policy, you can always make a reservation at Topolobampo next door.
Kennyz wrote:ronnie_suburban wrote:
Frontera is one of those places that I respect but never really crave. I've never had bad food there but sometimes when I eat there, I feel like I'm experiencing a fairly distilled take on the cuisine the place intends to showcase, more than a genuine instance of it.
It's clear that there is a sincere love and appreciation behind what's being served at Frontera but as a diner, at times the food plays out like a well-intentioned homage more than a geunine example of it. It's a relatively costly experience where a diner can feel as if he or she is being held at arm's length from the food they are actually there to enjoy. While one cannot dismiss Frontera's focus on quality ingredients, regional authenticity or traditional preparation methods, it doesn't necessarily seem like the best to place in town to experience them. Instead, the overall dining can feel distant and soulless, especially compared to other local places. Of course, many of those 'other local places' exist specifically because of the trail that Rick Bayless blazed. On that basis, it would be impossible to dismiss the importance of Frontera Grill or its nearly immeasurable influence on the local dining scene. Still, when I crave really great, soul-satisfying Mexican food, Frontera doesn't often come to mind. It's just a bit too precious for me.
=R=
Ronnie,
When you and Gary agree in large part, it's hard to dismiss the opinions - as I think you guys have extremely reliable, well-thought-out ideas about what constitutes great food. Your posts are usually superb predictors of whether or not I'm going to like a place. In this instance, however, we're quite far apart.
I agree with your take that Frontera sometimes lacks the "soul" other places have, but to me that's a reflection more of the largely (but far from completely) non-Mexican staff and the touristy clientele than the food. There are indeed a few places that dish up authentic, perhaps even more "soulful" food in homier settings, and I often crave those places as well.
To me, however, this concept does not render Frontera any less genuine than those other places. In fact, I think Frontera's style is highly reflective of (and, actually, better than) many high-end restaurants in Mexico City. Like a lot of those places, Frontera does indeed distill, as you put it, cuisines from various regions of the country into an oft-changing menu that sometimes adds creative, urban twists to the terrific home cookin' that la abuela does in the countryside. It's different - often better, imo, than la abuela's food. But la abuela herself isn't there, which makes the place feel a little different than some others. Discussions of Mexican authenticity are really difficult, as we're talking about a huge country with much regional variation, and a vast differences between food served in the big city restaurants and that which is served in the countryside. Bayless's restaurant is an original, but it wouldn't be an out-of-place original in urban Mexico.
Regarding foods that are crave-inducing, well... the chiles rellenos, the Tuesday-night birria, the many ceviches, and the perfect margaritas all have powerful dopaminergic effects on my brain.
Kennyz
JoelF wrote:Another thing that may actually hurt Frontera/Topo is its authenticity: If it's just the kinds of tacos through steaks I'd find at a dozen little Mex joints around the city, is there a good value? Yes, because it's incorporating pieces of all twelve of those regional shops, a better level of service, proximity to theater, etc. But places like Salpicon, which are doing a little more 'haute', more interpretation, seem fancier.
Tacos al Carbon - – $15.00
Wood-grilled meat, poultry, fish or mushrooms sliced and served with roasted pepper rajas, two salsas, frijoles charros, guacamole and homemade tortillas.
Naturally raised skirt steak marinated with garlic and spices. Red chile-marinated Maple Creek pork (pastor style), with charcoaled pineapple, slab bacon and red onion (no rajas). Organic Gunthorp chicken breast marinated with fruit vinegar, spices and garlic. Tender portobello mushroom marinated with achiote and spice. Gunthorp duck marinated with red-chile adobo. Farm-raised catfish marinated with achiote and garlic.
ronnie_suburban wrote:Kenny, I'm genuinely surprised to learn that my comments carry such weight. When I post, I think of my opinion as a single data point in a forum of many -- and many of the other opinions presented here are far more informed and experienced than my own.
=R=
Darren72 wrote:(A few also mentioned the $2.50 habanera salsa. Note that this is all-you-can-eat.)
G Wiv wrote:Darren72 wrote:(A few also mentioned the $2.50 habanera salsa. Note that this is all-you-can-eat.)
Darren,
I realized the $2.50 habanera salsa is all you can eat, but when I mentioned it in my original post I could not help but make fun of 150,000 Scoville unit hot sauce being the only thing on the menu that was all you can eat. I was negative enough already in my post, and I too have a soft spot for Frontera, so I left it out.
Enjoy,
Gary