The problem with cheesesteaks in Chicago is the problem, generally, with eating most great sandwiches outside of their proper geographic context: the bread. Meats, vegetables, fish, wine, one can import or, with some effort, reproduce. But bread is trickier. It can be done, and sometimes is: we are lucky to have great Mexican tortillarias and bakeries that provide a product that is as good as, and often better, than what's on hand on any given corner in the old country.
Cuban bread, oviously for me, comes to mind as the key ingredient that will forever deny us a truly great Cuban sandwich outside of South Florida. The infrastructure, labor and technique for real Cuban bread is pretty serious stuff, as some of my prior posts hopefully demonstrated. Some would say, what's the big deal, "French" or "Italian" works fine. I disagree.
Philly cheesesteaks, and hoagies for that matter, are similarly doomed to inadequacy beyond the Main Line. Ask any Philadelphian, famously defensive about thier great old town stuck between NY and DC, about food outside Philly, and they will tell you that all the bread sucks. Bread, especially for cheesesteaks, must come fresh from Amoroso's.
Of course, we have our own unique bread that is tailored to certain sandwiches, the humble Gonella/Turano beef roll. This tough little rectangle doesn't do much by itself, in fact, it's pretty bad. But it shines as it maintains composure when soaked with beef juices and giardiniera oils. And it pulls off a nice trick when it is heated in the Potbelly conveyor belt broiler, suddenly crisp on the outside, dense and chewy inside. Which leads me to wonder: when Potbelly takes over the world, which it will, believe me, can they get the bread right? And will Chicago-style giardiniera become the next salsa? Who knows.
PS, had some great bread last night at Resis, which had *perfect* schnitzel, eggs over easy, potato salad and kraut. The bread was rye from Baltic Bakery, heavy as a brick but still soft and flavorful.