Despite numerous complaints I've seen over time (too noisy, crowded, reservations not honored, snooty waitpersons), I felt like bistro food and have an old soft spot for Jean Claude from his previous spots where I tasted some dishes for the first time.
So off we went.
We don't get out all that much, so my response to dinner is purely a response to this particular dinner and not a taste/value comparison with Tournesol, Absinthe, Matou, Compagne, Kiki, Gabi, Margot, Cyrano, et al.
We had a great time.
Made a reservation for 6PM. Got there at about 6:15 and there was no hassle, not even a slightly raised eyebrow. Just a smiling welcome from the comely host.
The friendly vibe extended to the deuce right behind me who immediately offered to scoot their table down a bit to accomodate us.
Menus and water came right away. Virtually everything looked appealing and after a bit of dithering we settled on:
Alsatian onion tart and escargots starters.
Hallibut fillet w/ ratatouille (special) and sauteed rabbit chasseur (mains)
Apple tarte w/ caramel sauce and choc mousse (dessert),
1 glass ea. of the Macon and the Lorentz Pinot Blanc (the better of the 2)
The escargots were classic and good. Bright green parseley butter, not as oppressively garlicy as in some versions. Every drop finished.
Onion tarte also a classic rendering. One had the impression that a great deal of cream contributed to the deliciousness of the custard.
I didn't taste my wife's hallibut, but it was a generous portion, beautifully white, just slightly d'ore, firm but not a bit overdone. She enjoyed it a lot.
My rabbit was terrific. The piece was about the size of a 1/4 chicken, surrounded by lovely braised celery and carrot chunks. On a bed of farfalle which managed to be perfectly done both at the outer edges and the center crimp -- something I have never been able to manage, and the reason why I never make farfalle.
The sauce benefited from what appeared to be a very rich stock base, giving it a great flavor foundation. There was just enough to coat everything nicely with only a bit left for mopping up.
The meat was tender, moist, and just a bit of flavor intensity that told you it wasn't really chicken.
Desserts were rich and delicious versions of their kind with no attempts at innovation.
I found it notable that we were served at various times by every staff person in the room, not out of any desperation or breakdown, but because they all seemed to work the room as a single well functioning team. Our main waitress -- affable, effortlessly competant, freckled, with short hair -- could have been a young woman out of scores of old French photographs by Lartigue and the like. There was something absolutely timeless about her look.
The room, nearly empty when we arrived, filled up quickly ( it was $22 pre-fixe night). Though the room bustled, it was never unpleasantly noisy, and the service never flagged.
After we paid and were heading out, Jean Claude (who delivered the desserts) made a clear effort to get all the way across the room to make contact and say thank you and good night before we left.
All in all, I could find nothing to complain about -- least of all the final tally of $75 for two for a three course dinner with wine, inclusive. (We did skip coffee.)
"Strange how potent cheap music is."