Southport Grocery & Cafe

Very nearly at the end of recycled posts from the LTH listserve...

The prettiest food I've ever eaten (March 27, 2004)

Perhaps a slight exaggeration. But the Southport Grocery (actually food shop and cafe) is so beautifully art directed-- chichi lamps, open stainless kitchen, and row after row of exquisitely arranged yuppie foodstuffs-- that you want to marry it and buy a Land Rover.

Take for instance these beautiful, color-coordinated packages:



Who would not eat salad every night with bottles like these to dress it with?



And even the retro note is exquisite-- notice that many of these cans are the same foodstuff, but turned alternately front and back so that a different picture shows on each can while shelved.



And there was a salad I missed getting a picture of, but it had like those fluorescent magenta tortilla strips on top-- I may have to go back and order it just to get a photo, it was so cute.

So now that I've mocked its prettiness, as if I can only find food fulfillment in grimy, crowded groceries full of Goya cans and screaming fluorescent sale signs (why yes I have been to La Unica lately, why do you ask?), how was its food?

Really yuppin' good. As in best-sandwich-I've-had-in-recent-memory good. I ordered a pork sandwich with mango and pineapple salsa on La Brea ciabatta:



Pork cooked beautifully, to a your-mom-would-complain pink, tender and with savory juices soaking into the bread. Hot off the grill, mmm, the fear in such a pretty place is that they'll only be capable of making girly food but this was hearty and robust. Side was green beans, to my surprise served cold, but nicely dressed in one of the fruit vinegars off the shelf, made you want to buy the exact same thing and serve it that way yourself soon.

Southport Grocery and Cafe
3552 N. Southport Ave.
773-665-0100

Great review! I am going to have to go and order that pork sandwich you so lovingly described(and photographed) although it will require having to venture into yuppie ground zero territory -your review was that good

My wife and I stopped by for lunch today, and I'm sad to report that my experience didn't come close to living up to Mike's. My wife and her sister are both big cupcake fans, so we've dropped in semi-regularly for the past few months to grab cupcakes. I will go on record as saying that while I'm in the school that thinks the cupcake craze is ridiculous (sure, who doesn't love cupcakes, but a craze? C'mon), their vanilla cupcake is the one cupcake I've had that is, indeed, craze worthy. It really is the apotheosis of cupcakey goodness. We had not, until this afternoon, actually eaten anything else from SG&C, but based on the cupcake excellence and the menu, we've been wanting to give it a shot for a while. Plus, I'm admittedly a sucker for upscale sandwich/salad spots.



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I started with their Strawberry-Beet Salad. I figured strawberries are in season, it's a summery day, and I adore beets. The components were mostly tasty in their own right: some peppery pecans, rosemary jack cheese, decent fresh sliced strawberries and a vinaigrette that seemed largely comprised of pureed beets. The exception was the greens themselves, which were limp and lifeless. But it was clear on first bite that the dish just wasn't working. I think the main culprit was a battle between the very savory, salty beet vinaigrette and the sweet strawberries. The pecans worked fairly well, but the cheese was just kind of there... it was a mild-mannered cheese that didn't clash with anything, but it didn't seem to contribute anything to the dish, either. The salad was the kind of combination that may sound good on paper (it did to me), but one taste and it was clearly a bad pairing.



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My ladylove had the Cheese Box, which is exactly as billed. It seems like more of a takeout item, since it arrives at the table in a large plastic container. It's comprised of three rather generous hunks of cheese, accompanied by a chunk of good, crusty bread, plenty of grapes and toasted nuts. Only problem was we didn't end up with either the grapes or the nuts. Of the three small bunches of grapes, two were quite moldy in places. And there were no nuts to be found. In the staff's defense, we didn't really give them a chance to rectify the situation. When we pointed out the moldy grapes and asked our server to remove them, we didn't make it clear that we expected to receive more grapes. And by the time we realized that the nuts were missing, our entrees had already come and we decided not to make an issue of it. But mildly disappointing, nonetheless.



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My entree was the Roast Beef Sandwich. This was a dish that, for me, could have been really nice, but was torpedoed by what were either mistakes in execution or in planning. The sandwich was on a very nice toasted crusty bread, with some leeks and roasted tomatoes, and was accompanied by a tasty sauce that, to my surprise and delight, was sour cream based insted of mayonnaise based. The problem, however, was that the house made roast beef was well-done to the core, tough, rubbery and largely tasteless. No life whatsoever. The sandwich also came with tater tots. I love tater tots. And for their little classy twist, they were dressed with a dried herb mixture that I thought was really delightful. But they were either baked, or fried and later baked, and either way had clearly been sitting away from the most recent heat source for quite some time. They were also tough and chewy. In my book, when it comes to fried potatoes, if they aren't going to be served fresh from the fat, you're better off simply going with some other side than trying to hold them for extended periods of time.



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My wife's sandwich was the best of the bunch, though even that was underwhelming. It was a chicken salad, served on a toasted wheat bread. The bread, again, was very nice. The salad wasn't bad, but wasn't the least bit exciting. The chunks of chicken were very large, which I understand is a stylistic choice, so I can't dock it for that, but it's not one that works for me. There were large chunks of celery and whole red grapes, and as with the roast beef dip, the sauce binding the salad wasn't made with mayo, but rather with sour cream. However, where I loved it with the roast beef, it didn't work for me here. It just felt kind of flat, and lacked depth. It didn't have that round, full flavor that a mayo base brings, and while I appreciate the attempt to do something a little different, I just didn't think it was working. That said, for what it was, I thought it was well-executed... just poorly-conceived.

All in all, we were disappointed. The service wasn't bad, as seems to have been some others' experience, but it certainly wasn't nearly as attentive as we would have liked. We wanted to order cupcakes for dessert, but finally gave up when our server went to the next table three times in a row and never gave us a glance. The grocery, as some have commented, seems more geared towards picking up a cute bottle of something than doing any serious specialty food shopping. Midway through, we were hoping for at least one good dish to bring us back, but it just didn't happen. Bad luck, perhaps, but our current assessment is that the only reason to go is the vanilla cupcakes. They are, however, reason enough, and we'll continue to carry them out.

Dmnkly wrote:All in all, we were disappointed. The service wasn't bad, as seems to have been some others' experience, but it certainly wasn't nearly as attentive as we would have liked. We wanted to order cupcakes for dessert, but finally gave up when our server went to the next table three times in a row and never gave us a glance.

What you described adds up to bad in my book. Wanting to order a course and being unable to, because of service issues? How much worse does service get? (And how much more can a restaurant shoot itself in the foot than to make it impossible for a patron to put money in its cash register that he wants to put there?)

It brings back my experiences at Southport all too well.

You might give the burger a try next time. I had one a few weeks ago and was surprised at how good it was. Have been back since and it remains the best thing so far. It's going to br the pork for me next visit for sure..thanks for the suggestion.

I had lunch at Southport Grocery a few weeks ago, and didn't have the problems that other posters have complained about. (Granted it was at 1 p.m. on a weekday, they weren't crowded.) Except my tater tots were lousy, too. For posters who do find themselves in the vicinity of Southport and Addison and are in need of a casual but good lunch and dessert, but want to skip S.G., I'd recommend either Julius Meinl (it's more than just a coffee shop...and yes, it's a chain, but since it's the only location outside of Europe, I'm willing to cut them a break) or Schoolyard Bar & Tavern.

Meinl, which is on the NE corner of Southport and Addison, has some great sandwichs (plus salads, breakfast, pastries and other things I haven't tried). I'm particularly fond of their chicken salad sandwich, which large chunks of meat, grapes, dried apricots and walnuts, and is served on a fruit & nut bread with a side salad.

Schoolyard is at the corner of Southport & School. Yes, it's bar, but it has some of the more upscale bar food that you'll find in the city. Put it this way...I don't eat bar food, and I'll suggest to my friends that we head to Schoolyard. (In part that's because I really enjoy fish tacos, which are not authentic, but are very tasty.) I'm not a lamb chop eater, but their kitchen seems to serve a ton of them. And their tater tots will beat Southport Grocery's tater tots in recess smackdown any day.

Finally, if you want a great cupcake (albiet, one that's smaller than S.G.'s), head to Sensation Bites, which is on Southport, north of Addison, just past the Musicbox Theater. Great cupcakes and other desserts made with a lot of sugar, butter and other fresh ingredients! Prices are very reasonable. A cupcake starts at about $1.35.

I did feel somewhat bad that my tater tots were the only thing we ordered that didn't have a named origin. I thought they shoul've specified "Ore Ida Farms" on the menu (just to be consistent).

Dmnkly wrote:My wife and I stopped by for lunch today, and I'm sad to report that my experience didn't come close to living up to Gary's.

Dmnkly,

I think you mean Mike G, I've never been to Southport Grocery.

Dmnkly wrote:I love tater tots. And for their little classy twist, they were dressed with a dried herb mixture that I thought was really delightful. But they were either baked, or fried and later baked, and either way had clearly been sitting away from the most recent heat source for quite some time. They were also tough and chewy.

After reading this it's unlikely I will ever set foot in Southport Grocery, futzing with tater tots are a crime punishable by a weeks worth of meals at the Indianapolis Olive Garden.

Enjoy,
Gary

G Wiv wrote:Dmnkly,

I think you mean Mike G, I've never been to Southport Grocery.

Whoops... quite right. Not sure how I erred, but apologies for the mistaken identity

Duly corrected, above.

G Wiv wrote:...Futzing with tater tots are a crime punishable by a weeks worth of meals at the Indianapolis Olive Garden.

I like the tots at Meier's Tavern, on Lake just west of the Edens.

Meier's Tavern
235 E. Lake
Glenview, IL

This place had a lot of potential and went down hill when they started becoming aware of what they could get away with.

Everything went from high quality to good enough. I live a five min walk, like the type of food, work from home (go out for lunch in the hood daily), and havent been in well over 8 months.

Just average for what they want to be, or at least could have been.

J

Finally tried Southport Grocery & Cafe this morning for breakfast and I've just finished licking the crumbs off my fingers from one of their cupcakes.

I wasn't so excited about the atmosphere -- very laid back service, as in kinda non-existent although certainly pleasant. Reminded me strongly of some joint out in CA or Seattle...just sort of "relaxed" about things.

The food, however, was pretty darn tasty. Not sure if it was worth the cost, but I enjoyed it. I had their hash, which was really more along the lines of hash browns (real potatoes as opposed to frozen and thawed) with some peppers and onions (all of which were very tasty and carmelized and topped with some ooey gooey sharp white cheddar and a nice pile of scrambled eggs, done exactly the way I like them -- that is to say -- not too stiff and rubbery -- and topped with a dollop of sour cream (which the menu said was chive but was really scallion. This is one of my pet peeves in various establishments. A chive is not a scallion.) I tried a side of their pork sausage which was acceptable but not particularly to my taste -- i like my sausage a little more seasoned than this was (links versus patties) but the casing was nice and crackle crispy and the sausage tender) and a stellar side of challah toast, which was perfectly crisp and toasty on the outside and lovely and fresh and delicious on the inside. One quibble -- I didn't care for the way it was served -- all piled up in a bowl. I would have prefered a plate so I could see it all laid out for me.

Coffee was very good and they serve it with a nice little carafe so you can pour yourself a steaming second cup when you want it.

It was pretty empty when I was there -- so I would be concerned about being there with a much larger crowd.

I think breakfast is my favorite meal out -- and ever since my regular joint closed, I've been trying lots of new places. Don't know if I"ll venture down here that often but I wouldn't mind trying their french toast another time.

The cupcake you ask? Is it all that it's hyped to be? Well...at $2 bucks a pop, it was affordable and pretty darn good. Excellent buttercream and the crumb on the cake was definitely good. A little dry but not horribly so. I loved that they sold little sprinkles for them if you wanted to customize.

It's definitely not a place if you're in a hurry.

One other note -- I was going to go to Over Easy this morning but luckily the LTHForum saved me a trip -- thanks for the notice on the fire, folks!

shannon

I was walking along a sidewalk today, minding my own business. I passed two college-age girls standing and talking, and for the few seconds I was within earshot of them heard this:

girl 1- at Southport Grocery a customer walked out on me the other day. He said he didn't like my service!
girl 2- Oh my god!
girl 1- I know, like, fine, see ya

then they both started giggling

I had read the comments about this place in this thread and the other one, so I thought it was hilarious!

I've never noticed how little love Southport Cafe gets on this site. It's been over 9 years since this thread has been commented on but the restaurant is still going strong, regularly packing people into the small space. I've long thought the bread pudding pancakes are excellent but since waiting in line for breakfast violates my spiritual beliefs, I'm far from a regular.

I was inspired to return after reading about the new burger. The description and the fact that Kevin Church, who was behind the magnificent burger at Owen & Engine, is now in the kitchen at Southport Grocery, was enough to make me not mind waiting half an hour for a table yesterday at 9:30 in the morning.


Before getting to the excellent burger, I should mention this bourbon hot chocolate. The large mug of very good hot chocolate is fortiifed with bulleit bourbon. Very boozy on the nose and that's the initial taste as well, but it's quickly followed by a welcome dose of chocolate.


The burger consists of two patties with a healthy supply of cheddar cheese, caramelized onions, pickled green tomatoes, and a sauce made from mayo, pickled red pepper, and unidentified herbs. The whole thing comes on a nice housemade challah bun. There is a choice of sides for the burger (no fries), but I wisely listened to our server's suggestion of the incredibly creamy and buttery red potato mash.


The patties had a great crust, the sweetness and acid from the vegetables and sauce were well-balanced, and the soft challah bun (which was a shade larger than I would have liked) held its own holding the array of ingredients and strong flavors.

I still don't like the idea of waiting in lines, but I can definitely see a weekday lunch return for this burger.

MarlaCollins'Husband wrote:I've never noticed how little love Southport Cafe gets on this site.

I LOVE brunch at Southport Grocery! The bread pudding pancakes are amazing, and I've also enjoyed the adult pop tarts, the sandwiches, soups - pretty much everything there.

It's also a ten-minute walk to Wrigley, so it's my go-to spot for brunch before a day game.

MarlaCollins'Husband wrote:I've long thought the bread pudding pancakes are excellent but since waiting in line for breakfast violates my spiritual beliefs, I'm far from a regular.

Waits are usually non-existent late mornings on weekdays.

This topic needs a link to Southport Grocery's website and now it has one.

We went a few times in the first couple of years. It became apparent that, even after being in business for a while, they still hadn't figured out the service angle, so we stopped.

I may have grabbed a cupcake there once or twice. Never bothered going further even when I was willing to wait for a half hour for brunch. Now I don't wait. Either I get there at the opening bell or I go to Nico Osteria or Publican at my leisure with a reservation. And I still miss Nightwood for the same reason on the weekends.

I've always told people Southport is one of my faves for brunch (not just for the bread pudding pancakes, but OMG). I've never had a problem getting in, as long as you're strategic about your timing. I've been intrigued by their dinner, but have been too lazy to get on their mailing list since I moved out of Lakeview.

That burger looks great!

mdpilam wrote:I've never had a problem getting in, as long as you're strategic about your timing.

I've observed that popular places that serve weekend brunch without reservations typically start having significant waits around 9:00-9:30, and the wait tapers off around 12:30-1:00. (Southport Grocery is open 7-4 weekdays and 8-4 weekends.)

Of note - as far as I can tell they are the only people to stock Rancho Gordo beans locally. They sell them as one of the "grocery" items.

Just as a point of information, our problem was never the "getting in" part. When we had to wait, we understood. Our problem was the "apparently being invisible once we were seated" part. It seemed we were consistently waiting way beyond acceptability for someone to come over just to acknowledge that he or she was our waitperson. The problem seemed to be systemic, like management just didn't have a good process in place for waitstaff to know whose table was whose. Maybe they've figured it out by now.