RIP:
Gay & Larry's, Riverside, CA
My little discussion with Annie on the Denver thread regarding ancient, kitschy gringo-Mex places led me to check up on the venerable Gay & Larry's in Riverside. Well, Gay & Larry's just closed.
I was not surprised to find that the place had been open for over 60 years and that it was once a renowned roadhouse stop between LA and Palm Springs for Rat Packers and the original LA swingers who emulated them. Nor was I surprised to see the brutal and accurate reviews from those who ate there before it closed. I had forgotten that the speciality of G&L were the chile rellenos. G&L likely introduced more gringos to the stuffed Mexican chile than any single restaurant, and was serving them in the 40's. Of course, the corndog-like fritters, with little discernible chile and covered with Velveeta/brown goop, were rather unique to the place.
On the other hand, I saw comment from people who had been going there since the 50's and loved it. The best review, though (written for some kind of conference) focussed on the place, not the food, which was the only fair way to approach G&L. To paraphrase, the place was perfect, not only because of the neo mission exterior and 1953 vinyl Mexican/Tiki interior, but because of the surrounding environs: an abandoned highway, forsaken by the masses for the freeway, dirt lot, some auto body and tire shops and a few "squalid" shacks. Incredibly, this scene exists in a "city" of 250,000. But anyone who has been to downtown Riverside, the seat of a county that stretches nearly from Pomona to Arizona, knows that almost all of the residents are working and looking well to the west. Downtown is a well preserved old boom town turned near-ghost town.
I wish Gay and Larry's could have lived, so too with Jay's (maybe it will), Binyon's, the Golden Ox, Schulien's, Chez Paul, and the Farris Steakhouse near Carbondale (a hillbilly prom night destination spin on the rural roadhouse, also frequented by celebs pre-interstate on drives between NO/Memphis/Chicago).
Viva El Coyote. Long live Italian Village, on balance.
http://www.digitalcity.com/losangeles/d ... serreviews