Travelling to Southwest France

Hi There-

The wife and I are planning a 7 day trip to southwest France in late Feb. We will be spending 4 nights in the city of Bordeaux and 2 nights on a snail/foie gras farm near Thivers (not far from Perigueux). The final night we'll be in Paris.

As far as day trips, we'll spend a full day in Arachon, 1-2 days touring chateaux, 1 day in Perigueux for the market, so we seem to have a day or so open for activity. Any other notable day trips? We'll have a car.

The only meals we have planned so far are: Arachon - eating oysters off the boat and lunch at Chateau Cordeillan Bages near Pauillac. Bordeaux seems to have plentiful dinner options: Le Chapon Fin, Le Mably, Le Saint James in Bouliac and La Tupina.

Are there any 'must go' restaurants or other prime experiences that we should be aware of while we're there?

Thanks in advance!

Tom in Raleigh, NC

P.S. Prior to our move down south, we lived in Forest Park.

I was in Bordeaux and Arcachon during summer about four years ago.
I don't remember the name of the restaurants we ate at, but we enjoyed French, Indian and ummm.... I know there was another one.

Aside from the oysters (which Bourdain recommends from that area also), the area is renowned for its duck, because of the foie gras production -- which uses grape must as part of the extreme feeding regimen (Chateau Rothschild is known for its fois gras as much as its wines). At a restaurant known for its seafood, my wife had a wonderful honey-sauced duck breast.

Unlike Sonoma wineries, the chateaus are generally not open to the public. You may have to go with an arranged tour. We were able to photograph a few from the gates, plus the couple we had arranged to go into.

There was a good article in the Aug./Sept. Saveur about the oysters of Arachon, if you're looking for some tips.

In Bordeaux watch out for the traffic, it is horrendous, especially during rush hour. If you can change your reservation and stay outside the actual city I highly recommend it!

In the Nov. _Saveur_ (Saveur.com) is an article entitled "Vintage Pyrenees" which goes into great detail about the two Pyrenees depts. Sounds delicious.

geo

In Arcachon, the Novotel has one of the world's few thalassotherapy spas (pumped in, pulsating seawater). I was at another last week at the Marriott at Ko Olina in Hawaii - the one at Arcahcon is much less expensive, but they won't let you in unless you're wearing a Speedo (no one seems to know why).

Also, east of Bordeaux, don't miss the town of St. Emillion - hilly, picturesque cobblestone streets, and of course great vineyards all around.

I asked a buddy of mine in the wine biz in Bordeaux (he also used to cover the region for Galult & Millau). Here's his response, which I would treat as The Gold Standard!

"I would add the Hostellerie de Plaisance in scenic Saint Emilion, Le Cape in Cenon (across the river from Bordeaux), Les Jardins d'Ausone in Bordeaux, and L'Iguane in Morignac (near the airport), and Gravelier, also in Bordeaux and owned by the daughter of Troisgros in Roanne. I would not include Le Mably."

I've been with him to the place in St. Emillion--well worth a visit. Also, come to think of it, to Le Cape, too: sits right on the Gironde.

geo