Natale a Roma (Christmas in Rome)

Hi, all! I have a pretty specific Rome question and would love any advice you could offer.

My wife and I are going to Rome for our honeymoon, and will be there over Christmas. Has anyone been there over the holiday before? Any tips as to what is likely to be open? We would also just love any general tips about food in Rome; I studied there in 2002, but that was eight years ago now, and I was a broke college student then, so I assume that my dining choices won't be the same as they were then. We probably can't afford La Pergola, but we would like to have at least one "nice" meal; is Agata e Romeo the spot to try?

Thanks for any help you can give--and I promise to report back!

Can't speak to the holiday, but you should try using the Search function for the site. There are many threads devoted to Rome, including the threads here, here, and here.

Massive pangs of nostalgia over here.

When I was a kid, my folks would take us to Italy for Christmas every few years. You're in for a treat... no crowds, Piazza Navona, roasting chestnuts on every corner, and for a Catholic family, being at the Vatican for Christmas is pretty special. It's still my favorite time of year to go, though I haven't been for the holidays in over a decade, so maybe everything's different now.

You'll definitely have to contend with things being closed. As I remember, Christmas day was the only day that was really difficult. The surrounding days, though many restaurants were closed (ditto museums and attractions), there was always a corner trattoria somewhere to fall into. It's been a while, but while the time of year will limit your options, perhaps substantially, I don't think you'll have a problem finding places to eat. Of course, as mentioned, this is all fuzzy kid memory, rather outdated, and may no longer apply. If anything, I expect more will be open nowadays, as Italian business hours only seem to be expanding. But even if it's how I remember, I'm of the opinion that it's a perfectly acceptable trade off. There's something really special about Rome at Christmastime.

Hi,

Not Rome, but Venice around Christmas. In another life, I was in Venice in December. No crowds. Everyone busy going about their lives and getting ready for the holiday. I don't like coffee, though I drank pudding-thick hot chocolate at many coffee bars.

My first introduction to Venice was in August. I was happy never to return there again. It was business that brought me back in December some years later. I found the experience to be exceptionally pleasant.

My only visit to Rome was in August, again wasn't all that thrilled. I can easily envision Dom's thoughts because it paralleled my December visit to Venice.

Regards,

I spent last Christmas in Rome with friends and had the usual great time. Only Agustarello in Via Giovanni Branca, 100 stands out in my memory, but we ate well every where we went. Do plan ahead for Christmas day, as the choices will be limited. Christmas eve is not as challenging, with plenty of the now popular "Irish" pubs open should you choose to hoist a few sacred pints to the Nazarene's birth (alzare il gomito in Italian). The always informative Katie Parla has started to say a few things about this season. When I've followed her recommendations, I've been pleased.

The high point from last year's trip for me continues to be my visits (on three successive days) to the church of San Luigi dei Francesi. The front chapel on the left (facing the altar) is deeply moving, with three paintings by Caravaggio, especially the Calling of St. Matthew. I'm still thinking about it a year later.

Today's (12/5) NYT has a small piece (not an article) in the Travel section on restaurants open on Christmas Day in Rome; it lists a fair number of places with addresses, etc.