Hakata Tonton (Japanese, West Village, NYC)

New York has a treasure of great, laser-focused Japanese joints: see for example, the excellent pair Soba-Ya and Curry-Ya, one specializing in traditional buckwheat noodle soup preparation, the other in a more recent tradition imported to Japan by the English in the 20th century. And don't forget the numerous Izakayas, some of which have been documented here, or the yakitori places.

Hakata Tonton turns its focus to hot pot and tonsoku, or pig's feet. The feet are stewed for hours, and then grilled or fried, or served stewed with the hot pot. Of course, other Japanese and local Hakata-style stalwarts show up, with a wide variety of raw fish, fried chicken, okonomiyaki, and other izakaya-style snacky eats.

The tonsuku are excellent grilled. The skin takes on a pronounced crunch reminiscent of fresh chicharon, and the skin and soft, fatty meat underneath remain succulent and pleasantly funky. Watch out for bones. The tonsuku my girlfriend and I had were dressed with a seriously garlicky, thick soy sauce and sesame seeds. A wonderful combination.

The raw fish I've had there has been very fresh. Fried chicken seemed very popular. Housemade Japanese pickles, including daikon, cucumber, and artifical sugar free ginger, were impeccable. Everything goes great with beer and sake, which flows generously and affordably.

I'm a perennial curmudgeon when it comes to New York. Especially its dining scene. But I love the Japanese food here, and I love Hakata Tonton. Worth checking if you are in the neighborhood.

Hakata Tonton
61 Grove Street
New York, NY 10014
(212) 242-3699
www.tontonnyc.com/