Josephine wrote: For the oven, I'll ask here for your suggestions.

Josephine,

It seems like a traditional cast iron dutch oven (like the one pictured at this link http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31VNGB9X9YL.jpg) is exactly what you need.

Thanks again, Cynthia. There is more to come!

Yes, an amazing trip, and, better for us, an even more amazing narrative! Tnx sooo much!

Geo

stevez wrote:

Josephine wrote: For the oven, I'll ask here for your suggestions.

Josephine,

It seems like a traditional cast iron dutch oven (like the one pictured at this link http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31VNGB9X9YL.jpg) is exactly what you need.

Excellent idea, stevez!

Dali Market: Spring, Long-Awaited with Greens

You have seen the blossoms among the leaves;
tell me, how long will they stay?
Today they tremble before the hand that picks them;
tomorrow they wait someone's garden broom.
Wonderful is the bright heart of youth,
but with the years it grows old.
Is the world not like these flowers?
Ruddy faces, how can they last?

- Han Shan (9th Century)


Man with Azalea, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

You ask me why I dwell in the green mountain;
I smile and make no reply for my heart is free of care.
As the peach-blossom flows down stream and is gone into the unknown,
I have a world apart that is not among men.

- Li Bai (701-762)


Conversing in the Market, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

You also come from my home town,
You must know all the home town news.
At dawn, before the silken window,
Is it too cold for plum blossom to show?

- Wang Wei (699-759)


Selling Peppers, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

My idle dreams roam far,
To the southern land where spring is fragrant.
Wind and strings play on a boat on the river's clear surface,
The city is full of catkins flying like light dust.
People are occupied admiring the flowers.

My idle dreams roam far,
To the southern land where autumn is clear.
For a thousand li over rivers and hills cold colours stretch far,
Deep in flowering reeds, a solitary boat is moored.
Beneath the bright moon, a flute plays in the tower.

- Li Yu (1610-1680)


Shopping for Spices and Dried Foods, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Day after day we can't help growing older.
Year after year spring can't help seeming younger.
Come let's enjoy our winecup today,
Not pity the flowers fallen!

- Wang Wei (699-759)


Bai Woman, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Third day, third month festival,
and the air fresh with spring;
beside Serpentine Lake in Chang'an,
many lovely women stroll.
Their appearance is elegant,
their thoughts lofty and refined,
their complexions delicate,
figures in perfect proportion.
Their embroidered silk gowns
glisten with spring light;
golden peacocks and beasts of silver
strut upon the fabric.
What is it that they wear
upon their heads?
Jeweled headbands with kingfisher feathers,
dangling to their hairlines.

- Du Fu (712 - 770)


Pepper Flower Chambers by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Among them are kin of the Pepper-flower Chamber with its cloud-patterned curtains-
the Duchesses of Guo and Qin,
honored with the names of nations!

- Du Fu (712-770)


Pepper Royalty, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Helping Mom, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Under pines
I ask the boy;
he says: "My master's gone
to gather herbs.
I only know
he's on this mountain,
but the clouds are too deep
to know where."
Jia Dao (779-843)


First Mountain Herb of Spring, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


First Mountain Herb of Spring, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

When I'm hungry I boil up some greens.
I've got no use for the kulak
With his big barn and pasture --
He just sets up a prison for himself.
Once in he can't get out.
Think it over --
You know it might happen to you.
-Han Shan (9th century)


Display of Greens, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Greens, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

All plants, aware that spring will soon be gone,
Their brightest rose bud purple hues put on:
And from each emulous bloom
Is shed a sweet perfume.

- Han Yu (768-824)


Greens, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Water and land have yielded every delicacy. Fresh-picked fruits, and Tung-t'ing oranges. . .


Dali Fruit Vendor by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Preserved Fruits, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

T'ien-ch'ih fish, all scaled and sliced . .


Dali Market Scene with Fish Vendor by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Fish Vendor, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

After gorging themselves, their minds will be at ease. . .

- Bai Ju Yi (772-846)


Dumpling Concession, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Chicken Delivery, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Eggs, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Sausages, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Pickled Vegetable, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Yunnan Giardiniera, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

It's all ordinary experience,
All ordinary images.
By chance they emerge in a dream,
Turning out infinite new patterns.


Pottery, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

It's all ordinary feelings,
All ordinary words.
By chance they encounter a poet,
Turning out infinite new verses.


Orange Organization, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Once intoxicated, one learns the strength of wine,
Once smitten, one learns the power of love:
You cannot write my poems
Just as I cannot dream your dreams.

- Hu Shih (1891-1962)


Naxi Baskets, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Little Princess, Dali, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

At the home of the Prince of Qi
I have often seen you,
and in the hall of Cui Jiu,
I have heard you sing.

- Du Fu (712-770)


What's Mom Doing? Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This night I feel the coming of spring from the warm breeze
Insects are newly calling through the window's drapes

- Liu Fangping (8th Century)


First Spring by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I realize for the first time that the sun has risen.

- Han Shan (9th Century)

Hui Muslim Dinner: Vegetables Raw, Breads Steamed and a Raincoat Boiled

In Xizhou, we set out by donkey cart one evening to dine in the home of a Hui Muslim family. Our hosts at the Linden Center had arranged for us to learn how to make a local Muslim specialty: steamed bread studded with dried beef and green onion. Two Linden Center staff members accompanied us to translate, but also to up the fun quotient. Frank took the motorbike.


Carriage Ride, Xizhou by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Frank on the Moto by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I can't say which of us had more fun.


Xizhou Taxi by Josephine2004, on Flickr

It turned out that our mode of transportation was not the only aspect of the evening that put us in touch with the olden days of Xizhou. Our host turned out to be a collector of antiques. He greeted us at the entrance to his home, decorated in the Bai style. A demonstration of mortar technique followed.


Big Mortar How-to by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The interior of the home revealed the influence of various traditions. A golden Buddha sat on the table to the left.


Interior, Xizhou by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Pieces of salvaged Bai architectural ornament were stacked against one wall.


Bai Architectural Carvings by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Some of the tiny ceramic figures seemed to reflect animist traditions.


Ceramic Display, Xizhou by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I'm usually a sucker for a shapely pot, but in this case, the very old Yi raincoat of boiled bark cloth took the prize. Below you see it on Michael, a member of our tour group. He does not look very happy, does he? The reason, (apart from being made to pose for us) is that the coat was terribly heavy (It felt like 20 lbs.) and scratchy. Almost half an inch thick, the boiled bark cloth was as dense as any boiled wool I have seen, actually, more like a heavy felt. The Yi people of Yunnan were traditionally forest dwellers needing protection from undergrowth and rain while gathering mushrooms, and other foods of the forest. (I saw only one Yi woman in traditional garb on this trip. Her large hat, I was told, was designed to protect her face from low-hanging branches.) The Yi are as fond of the color black as the Bai are of the color white.


In a Yi Raincoat by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The ethnically eclectic mix of our host's antiques seemed to reflect the history of the people of Yunnan, a history that is tied to the ancient migration of Tibeto-Burman peoples, the waves of empire building through dynastic ambition, and the trade routes along the Silk Road. This history explains the complexity of defining the Hui ethnic group. For those interested, this entry in Wikipedia might be worth a few minutes.

Briefly, according to Wikipedia, the PRC considers the Hui one of its 56 ethnic minorities, and includes in the group all who are not identified as belonging to another ethnic minority. This seems a practical solution, since the history of trade along the Silk Road created opportunities for intermarriage among Han Chinese and Muslims of Arab, Turkic, Persian and Central Asian origin. The term "Hui" in its first usage, referred to Muslims, Christians, and Jews alike - in an ancient form of the "laowai" in current usage. As concerns the origins of Muslims in Yunnan, some Hui are descended from Mongols and other foreigners recruited by the Yuan Dynasty as officials and artisans. Also, some Bai people are converts to Islam (It would be interesting to learn more about how and when these conversions took place.) Our hosts for the evening mentioned that their families had been Muslims for 10 generations, but we did not think to ask for details. It is probably just as well. This might have been a critical matter for their forbears around 1859, when the area around Dali saw an interval of Muslim rule in a period of rebellion against the Qing Dynasty, with ultimately disastrous results for the Muslims.

While we were discussing antiques, our hostess was preparing to demonstrate her recipe for a steamed bread with dried beef. She proved to be both an efficient cook and a patient teacher who apparently ascribed to the maxim, "There is no such thing as a stupid question," (my favorite kind of teacher). I will let the pictures tell the story of her recipe for the most part, noting the ingredients. Our tireless guide/diplomat from the Linden center excelled at translation and clarification.


Making Hui Steamed Bread 1 by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Both yeast and soda serve as leavening for the wheat flour dough- something we had seen with the Bai Xizhou Baba breads (see upthread). The photograph above gives you an idea of the amount of dough used. A bit of flour is added immediately upon taking the dough from the bowl in which it had risen.


Making Hui Steamed Bread 5 by Josephine2004, on Flickr

A floured board hosts the kneading action.


Kneading Hui Steamed Bread by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Canola oil, salt, Szechuan pepper, chopped dried beef, and spring onions stand at the ready to flavor the bread.


Flavorings for Hui Steamed Bread by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The bread is seasoned with salt and a tiny bit of Szechuan pepper.


Seasoning Hui Steamed Bread by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The seasoned bread is then brushed with oil, folded, turned and rolled again into a flat circle.


Rolling Hui Bread 2 by Josephine2004, on Flickr

To that circle, chopped dried beef is added. The beef is not overly salty, though it does seem to be cured in some way.


Adding Beef to Hui Bread by Josephine2004, on Flickr


More Beef by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Hui Bread by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Chopped spring onions are sprinkled over the dough.


Seasoning Hui Bread by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The bread is rolled again and cut into uniform pieces. Each piece reveals bits of beef and flecks of green onion.


Second Rolling - Hui Bread by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Cutting Hui Bread 2 by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I wish I could accurately describe how this bread is formed. First the cut pieces are folded. Then the folded pieces are stretched and twisted. We all tried this, but only Robert, our trip leader, a trained chef, was able to make the proper-looking bun.


Twisting and Forming Hui Bread by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I suppose the breads would have tasted just as good if they had not been so pretty. They did have the texture of other steamed breads I have had in China. However, the beef as a flavoring was new to me. I could see sitting down with a steamer of these and making a meal of them.


Hui Steamed Buns by Josephine2004, on Flickr

While the breads were steaming, our hostess brought out a feast of other Hui specialties. I almost hate to reveal the glory of this dinner in its entirety before the end of the post.


Feast in Hui Home, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Remember that stretched cheese I mentioned upthread? That is what you see at the right of the table, in a tempting golden stack Here, it is fried and crunchy. I wish I could get my hands on some of that stuff tonight.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Two noodle dishes were served. The first, cold, was seasoned lightly with a bit of vinegar, sugar, salt and raw chopped sweet red and hot green peppers and scallions.


Cold Noodles with Hot and Sweet Peppers by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The second noodle dish (hot) was a more familiar (less sweet) dish of noodles topped with chopped preserved vegetables, possibly mustard stems, some oil, garlic, Szechuan peppercorns, spring onion, and cilantro.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I was interested to see the appearance of raw vegetables here, and was told that this is a Hui tradition. The tomatoes were sprinkled with sugar. These dishes surely bear the imprint of the Middle East and Central Asia.


Cucumbers by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Hui Tomatoes with Sugar by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This was one of the only dinners we ate in Yunnan where beef played a significant role. We were told that it is considered wrong even to utter the word, "pork" in a Hui home. Here is a photograph taken in the market at Dali - a Hui woman sells beef at a butcher's stall.


Hui Woman, Dali, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

In the right foreground is a dish of mushrooms stir-fried with beef and some hot pepper.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Beef also appeared with a green that reminded me of asparagus,


Dish of Beef with Green Stems by Josephine2004, on Flickr

and one that had hints of fennel and celery.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This green seemed to be a member of the lily/onion family.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We had been wondering when the local fish would make an appearance. It was as spicy as it looks.


Er Lake Fish Dish by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This stuffed eggplant dish and this dish of greens used egg:


Stuffed Eggplant by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Here is that green in its raw form, as it appeared in the Dali Market.


Spring Greens, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I can't pass up favas whenever they are served. This preparation was a simple saute with canola and scallion.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Black skin chicken appeared in two dishes. The steamed dish was served warm, simply seasoned. It was very flavorful.


Steamed Black-skin Chicken by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Finally, a soup made from three ingredients: black-skin chicken, ginger, and salt. This broth was incredibly rich with umami and barely discernible ginger.


Black Skin Chicken Soup with Ginger by Josephine2004, on Flickr

What a sensational dinner! The prominence of greens new to us, the presence of noodles hot and cold, the fried cheese and chicken soup - these we had seen in other Yunnanese meals in slightly different guises. Local fish we had only hoped for prior to this evening. The biggest surprise of all was eating raw cucumber and tomato. We were stuffed and happy riding home in the donkey cart, with visions of those steamed buns still in our heads. Santa might be surprised next year when I delete my standard order of sugarplums in favor of these savory treats.


Steamed Hui Breads Atop a Feast, Xizhou by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Absolutely lovely. The poetry was inspired! Thank you.

No person alive is without regrets. As a food-focused individual, mine tend to run to "joys untasted.” The Yunnan trip offered no exception to this unfortunate rule. An extended bout of food-related illness drove me to break into my cache of worst-case-scenario antibiotics and to spend a day in bed with the curtains drawn. Happily, my husband Ray, ever robust, saved the day by bringing back a faithful account of his exploration of Xizhou. These pictures document what he encountered there. I offer them with a meditation on risk – and the benefits of exploring the frontier of one’s culinary comfort zone.

Xizhou Market : The Day of Living Dangerously

A day may begin with the serene prospect of an orderly town capped by a pastel glacier of housewares:


Hillside Market Near Dali, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

But encountering the unfamiliar, can one reliably say where danger lies? This man seems to be assessing a specific, if abstract threat - that of strangers with cameras in hand.


A Look of Concern by Josephine2004, on Flickr

A haircut can be benign, or rather risky - with a straight razor in the hands of the barber.


Shave and a Haircut, Two Kuai by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Some threats are more obvious, and imminent:


Ton O' Bricks, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Ton O' Bricks Aloft by Josephine2004, on Flickr

But perhaps the greatest threats are diffuse - those we all contribute to unknowingly, and suffer collectively.


Behind the Market, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Still, what is gained without some risk? Hot peppers can be unpredictable - if ingested.


Adding Peppers to Grinder, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Or if fingers become ensnared in the grinder. . .


Pepper Merchant with Grinder by Josephine2004, on Flickr

A game of chance tempts fate in tiny doses. We perform calculations to forestall losses, expecting a big win against the odds. Exciting stuff.


Game of Chance, Dali, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Most of the time, we do our best to anticipate problems; we plan for them. The right container helps us bring order from chaos;


Baskets for Sale, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

and the right binding makes fast the things that tend to fall apart.


Rope Merchant with Wares, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Sometimes, we anticipate a risk, but it crops up in the very activity undertaken to handle it .


Dentist's Office, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Through empathy, one encounters risks belonging to another. The man in the white coat seems to be struggling with this.


Just Look Down by Josephine2004, on Flickr

But he succumbs to his own humanity,


Wincing Assistant by Josephine2004, on Flickr

. . . and looks away. (Note that the patient seems undisturbed.)


Market Day Dentistry, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The witness to such a scene may feel the need for a comfort. That comfort may come with the presence of friends,


Comfort in Numbers and Naxi Baskets by Josephine2004, on Flickr

or the possibility of a comforting bowl. Chickpea tofu noodles dressed with hot pepper and soy-based sauces might be just the thing.


Topping Chickpea Flour Noodles by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We humans are immensely adaptive. When tangible comforts fall short, we make use of more symbolic, intangible ones. This woman seems to have both bases covered.


Discussing the Devotional Wares, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

A way to security finds a path in ritual for young and old alike.


Devotional Wares for Sale, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Bai Women Selling Devotional Wares, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We need not be swallowed by our fears; we can put them to good use. Phobias, as an example, are wonderful things. They displace and encapsulate our fears, making them more manageable. A food adventurer, for instance, makes use of a counter-phobic disposition. By eating unfamiliar foods, the adventurer is assured of his or her resilience and achieves peace of mind.

Encountering a food challenge once mastered, one can sit back and enjoy the ride, no matter how unfamiliar the setting. Lake Er escargots might be delicious with garlic and butter, but how much more interesting might they be with hot pepper? Very promising. . .


Fish and Snails for Sale, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

And yet.

Am I alone in finding this picture intimidating? What, exactly, makes blood sausage more frightening than any other sausage, assuming one is a carnivore? Calling it boudin noir or black pudding does not seem to help much, does it?


Blood Sausages, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


This pork skin at a butcher’s stall seems benign enough. Who has not had chicharron?



Raw Pork Skin, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Nevertheless, few born of our age are truly intrepid, with all the cues that can be gleaned from context. What is a menu but an official endorsement, an expression of reassurance?



Golden Flower Restaurant, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr


And what is a restaurant but an institution of dining? The restaurant exterior sends signals of order and harmony, promising a curated collection of good taste.



Bai Restaurant Courtyard, Xizhou by Josephine2004, on Flickr


This particular restaurant had a de facto celebrity endorsement, that of this lovely seamstress:



Embroidering in Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Inside, the fish tank and white tiles promised freshness and hygiene.



Bai Restaurant with Fishtank by Josephine2004, on Flickr


This view of the kitchen might please a modern-day Vermeer.



Bai Cook with Sausages by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Still, no kitchen is without fire.



Wok Aflame by Josephine2004, on Flickr


For the moment, the fire is tamed. This is where I abandon my narrative of imagined dangers, vicariously secure amid the visual cues of this restaurant and the tradition of Bai cuisine.



Cooks in Bai Restaurant, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Perhaps I should reconsider.

The first dishes to come out of the kitchen were shots across the bow, tests of the diners’ mettle. Leaves exploded by flash-frying from meek to flamboyant had a noisy crunch and the look of talons poised. How could the brown shreds in the basket below expand that much?



Drama from a Humble Leaf, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Rolled Leaves for Frying, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Next came fatty, crunchy fried insects, crickets perhaps. A challenge for any member of the Clean Plate Club.



Fried Bugs, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Things calmed down a bit then. A traditional Bai dish of Lake Er fish and tofu was bland and approachable, with abundant golden roe.



Bai Fish Dish with Tofu by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Lake Er Fish with Roe by Josephine2004, on Flickr


The cured sausages seen in the kitchen window made their appearance on the table, fried. In spite of the abundance of fish in Lake Er, pork is the mainstay of Bai cuisine. A dish of black-skin chicken was accented with pork belly and hot peppers.



Bai Sausages and Bacon by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Chicken, Bai Style by Josephine2004, on Flickr


As elsewhere in Yunnan, mountain herbs and foraged greens made an appearance here, first in an omelet, and next with astringent greens and hot pepper. Sour and hot flavors are also typical of Bai cuisine.



Bai Omelet with Herbs by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Greens with Hot Pepper by Josephine2004, on Flickr


This fiddlehead dish combined two Yunnan spring favorites.



Favas and Fiddleheads by Josephine2004, on Flickr


But there were several surprises in store. First came new shoots of tender pine. They tasted, well, piney and were enhanced by the rich pork and spring onion.



Pine Shoots with Bacon by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Lake Er snails appeared. The first picture gives an idea of how they were prepared, stir-fried with generous hot pepper, pickled vegetable, and spring onion. The second picture gives an idea of their texture – a bit bouncy, like much seafood, but not rubbery.



Lake Er Snails with Spring Onion by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Lake Er Snails, Close-Up by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Next came one of the famous “Oddities of Yunnan,” flowers served as food. This dish involved pomegranate flowers, which were indeed odd, in that they had the texture of pasta.



Pomegranate Flowers, Sauteed by Josephine2004, on Flickr


The day’s adventures were summed up in a dish that might arouse suspicion, revulsion, or fear in the most intrepid diner: RAW PORK SKIN. It is a dish that anyone might feel justified - yea prudent - in refusing.



Raw Pork Skin with Hot Pepper by Josephine2004, on Flickr


That my husband and his compatriots consumed the raw pork skin may be evidence of their adventurous natures, or the strength of their bonds under challenge. But I think equal credit may be given to the cook. It is testimony to the power of artistry that so reviled a foodstuff, presented in pristine, symmetrical slices can be enjoyed and compared to properly cooked scallops.

Or maybe it is just that my husband can eat anything with enough hot sauce on it. That’s living dangerously.

Yunnan Banquet: Restaurant 1910 La Gare du Sud, Kunming

During my late teens, a time of life that demands reflection on the perennial questions, a peer told me that, “the end is in the beginning.” This has often struck me as uncannily true. In the case of our culinary adventure in Yunnan, the end was in the beginning, as the first dinner we enjoyed in the provincial capital of Kunming offered the most complete sample of Yunnan classics of any single meal on the trip, a near-perfect summary - that is, if you don’t count the absence of raw pork skin and insects.

Greeting us on the terrace of the restaurant 1910 La Gare du Sud was this trainman. Is he holding a lunch box?


Yunnan Railroad Man, Kunming by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Just as its early history is tied to the Southern Silk Road, Kunming’s fortunes in modern times are linked to its role as a transportation hub, beginning with the construction of the Chemin de Fer de l’Indochine et du Yunnan, the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway (1904-1910). This link for railroad buffs describes the engineering feats and human costs involved. Traffic on the line was interrupted during WWII and the immediate postwar period, and again between 1979 and 2006. Passenger transport has been halted since 2003 due to safety concerns, but recent progress in international relations has fostered nostalgia for the old rail line. In celebration of its centennial, Beijing-based photographer Adeline Cassier's striking images document the French architectural and decorative features that remain. Find them here, here and here.

It is perhaps no surprise that residents of Kunming developed a taste for coffee and baguettes during a period of exposure to French tastes. This could explain the steam engine coffee mill I ran across in a Lijiang café,


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

as well as the design of this this charming restaurant in Dali, whose tile floor echoes those of the gares or railway stations of the line.


Bai Restaurant, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

1910 La Gare du Sud is a large restaurant in a train station of the French colonial style. This interior shot from the second-floor dining room shows a painting of the building:


Interior of Gare 1910 Restaurant by Josephine2004, on Flickr

According to what I have learned since our visit to Kunming, this restaurant is a favorite of expats and tourists. Considering the pleasant atmosphere, large outdoor dining area and excellent food, I am not surprised. Normally, I would not bother to mention this issue, but considering that Saveur named it one of two places to eat in Kunming, I have to validate complaints on Tripadvisor that the management does not necessarily honor reservations, especially when they have a wedding party. This proved to be the case with our small group, competing with a wedding on a Monday night, though we were eventually able to get in with persistence from our trip leader.

Kunming is a comparatively unpolluted Chinese city by a palm-tree-ringed lake. It might be worth a longer visit than the one night we arranged. As a railroad enthusiast I was sorry to have missed the Yunnan Railway Museum. But our dinner at 1910 La Gare du Sud just about made up for that.

The fried Yunnan sausage reminded me of a type of Portuguese chourico that I have enjoyed, however, it was drier, and crispier when sliced thinly and fried. The Szechuan peppercorns gave it wonderful la.


Yunnan Sausage by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Tofu made of chickpea flour was a new taste, something that we were to enjoy later in the trip. Its exterior layer was very slightly crunchy from deep-frying, giving it some textural interest.


Fried Bean Tofu by Josephine2004, on Flickr

In one of the last meals of our trip (post-ancient ecological mustache), Ray and I passed up a menu item billed as "Bacteria Lamb," in favor of a slightly less intimidating dish called "Roof-Tile Beef." When it appeared, we realized that we had been served "Roof-Tile Pork" on our first night in Kunming. It did not seem that the meats were cooked on the tiles, as the tiles were not especially warm. Though the photo is not very clear, what interested me about the dish was the combination of Yunnan ham and fresh pork stir-fried.


AKA Roof-Tile Pork by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This chicken soup was perhaps the best chicken soup I have ever tasted. The ingredients? Chicken, salt and a knob of ginger. It was claimed that no water was added to the chicken, (something that I doubt). I believe that this exaggeration was meant to stress the cooking method, which involves a clay pot and the steam that collects in an inverted lid and evolves into intensely flavorful soup. Method aside, that was one chicken-y chicken, probably an old hen.


Chicken Soup by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Chicken Soup Vessel by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This is a dish I raved about upthread. After a recent gift of Fuschia Dunlop's Szechuan book, I now realize that it is part of a "greatest hits" menu, not necessarily a Yunnan dish. The tender pork belly and iron-rich greens reminded me of (American) Southern cooking. The steamed buns were a perfect soft, bland setting for each intense bite.


Pork Belly with Greens by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Pork Belly and Greens in Bun by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Although we did not visit during a time when mushrooms are plentiful in Yunnan, this dish incorporated some delicious examples.


Chicken and Mushrooms, Yunnan Style by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Cheese was one of the main surprises for me in Yunnan. This crispy, puffy Dengchuan Rushan delighted us. It tastes just like a dry fried Manchego, nutty and buttery.


Fried Dengchuan Rushan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Stewed Pumpkin was mild and soothing, without strings. The ham it was served with was unlike any ham we were served elsewhere, being mild, soft and light pink, like a good Polish ham, sliced thick. It made a nice salty bed for the sweet pumpkin.


Stewed Pumpkin with Ham by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This potato dish was unlike any I have ever had. You can figure out the other ingredients of the dish - what was unusual was the texture of the potatoes. They were fried to dry- almost puffed up, like thick chips, with a styrofoam texture -but browned and crunchy at the same time.


Potatoes Fried Yunnan Style by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Kunming is a comparatively unpolluted Chinese city by a palm-tree-ringed lake. It would be worth a longer visit than the one night we arranged. At this time, air travel is the only practical way to reach Kunming for a traveler with limited time, though a planned high speed rail connection to Shanghai will soon cut the 37-hour train trip down to 10 hours. A revival of the old narrow-gauge trains along the Chemin de Fer de l’Indochine et du Yunnan is being considered as a tourist attraction. Railroad enthusiasts who would rather not wait for that to happen can visit the Yunnan Railway Museum and find comfort in the fact that the Southern Silk road is to be recreated in railway form.

As reported by GoKunming.com, “Within a decade, Kunming will be at the center of a high-speed rail network that extends westward across India and Pakistan to Iran, southward to Singapore on the South China Sea, eastward to Xiamen and Shanghai on the Chinese coast and northward to Chengdu – if Beijing has its way.” Where Kunming is concerned, it does seem to be true that, “the end is in its beginning and the beginning is in its end.” * Maybe when they open the Kolkata-Kunming line they will recreate this banquet:


1910 Banquet Celebrating the Opening of the Chemin de Fer du Yunnan et de l'Indochine by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Restaurant 1910 La Gare Du Sud
8 Houxin Jie, Kunming, China
0871-3169486

*It wasn’t until just now that, thanks to Google, I have learned that this bit of wisdom comes from the Sefer Yetzirah.

Wisteria in Bloom, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

At the Bai Yun Restaurant at the Banyan Tree hotel in Lijiang, we were served a banquet prepared under the direction of a prominent chef who had spent most of his career impressing international diplomats, including Olympic mucky-mucks. Here is the special menu he offered featuring typically Yunnanese ingredients:


Menu, Banyan Tree Banquet by Josephine2004, on Flickr

From the right, a soft and mild Yunnan Ham, a spiced Yak Sausage, and another Yunnan Ham, much saltier and fatter. The Yak sausage was surprisingly complex, but I could not really make out the individual spices used.


Assorted Yunnan Cold Platter by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I don't remember much about the pigeon soup, but the pumpkin-shaped bowl was awfully pretty, wasn't it?


Pigeon Soup by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This dish reminded me of osso bucco, with deep umami and some textural interest from the melting connective tissue bits. I can't recall the mushroom name, but it might have been chunks of porcini, or chicken of the woods, from the firm texture.


Braised Venison with Mushroom by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This perch dish reminded me of a more successful version of a perch I had once in a Loire Valley Michelin 2-star. Must have been the Yunnan ham.


Steamed Perch with Yunnan Ham by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The essence of chicken came through with this simple preparation. Why mess with perfection?


Boiled Chicken with Vegetable by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Somehow, I missed taking a photo of the yak with enoki mushrooms. I recall that the dish re-confirmed my earlier impression that yak tastes much like beef. The "fried rice" was more of like a risi e bisi, quite delicate.


Seafood Fried Rice and Mushroom by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The next morning, I thanked Chef for the banquet. Then I asked him a "stupid question": what were the ingredients of the morning broth for noodles I was eating? Immediately after asking the question, I recalled a similar question being asked years ago by another student of Chef Madeleine Kamman in a class at The Silo in Connecticut. Kamman had eviscerated the poor student with a snort of contempt. But no loss of face awaited me with the Banyan Tree's chef. He answered me simply and graciously, with a smile, as if this was the most natural of questions: "Pork, ginger, Yunnan ham, and salt." Clearly this was a man well-suited to diplomacy, who practiced the credo inscribed at the Black Dragon Pool:


Words to live by, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I just learned that the Shangri-la Old Town burned on January 11th. Here are photos from xinhuanet. Very sad, though there are no reports of casualties in this account.