Michigan Eats:Lafayette Coney, Oriental Express, Zingermans

I was out in Detroit a couple weeks ago and just wanted to highlight a few excellent chow moments:

"One Up" at Lafayette Coney Island

Belly up to the formica and hang with real Detroit. Below photos of Stanley Cup winning hockey teams, and the hapless (as of late) Detroit tigers, knosh with beat cops, teamsters, immigrants, and college kids at all hours. Classics include the coney dog and the bowl of chili served with a flotilla of oyster crackers. The chili is a close greek variant of the Cincinnati style, with a hint of sweet. The hot dog is a Winter's full casing frank with a toothsome crunch and a sweet sharpness from the stripe of mustard and sprinkling of onion. Run by third generation greeks, your table order gets relayed Bill Goat Tavern style, no cheeseborger, cheeseborger, but "one up" for a single coney served on a plate.



Saluting the General at Oriental Express

Made a stop in Ann Arbor for my favorite General Tsos chicken in the country. The perfect combo of sweet, spicy, and crunchy, supported by girders of thick fresh green broccoli stems. Paired with a healthy portion of fried rice and a decent egg roll all for 5.15.



Honk If You Like Pastrami: Zingermans

While I have no pictures of the food, I made a quick stop at the famous institution to pick up some Edward Fallot Dijon mustard, house cured white anchovy fillets, a pound of pastrami, and their 10 year old house balsamic. The pastrami, while not as spicy as Manny's, sure makes a good sandwhich




Lafayette Coney Island
(313) 964-8198
118 W Lafayette Blvd
Detroit, MI 48226

Zingermans
(734) 663-3354
422 Detroit St
Ann Arbor, MI 48104

Oriental Express
(734) 668-2744
707 Packard St
Ann Arbor, MI 48104

MJN wrote:
"One Up" at Lafayette Coney Island

Belly up to the formica and hang with real Detroit. Below photos of Stanley Cup winning hockey teams, and the hapless (as of late) Detroit tigers, knosh with beat cops, teamsters, immigrants, and college kids at all hours. Classics include the coney dog and the bowl of chili served with a flotilla of oyster crackers. The chili is a close greek variant of the Cincinnati style, with a hint of sweet. The hot dog is a Winter's full casing frank with a toothsome crunch and a sweet sharpness from the stripe of mustard and sprinkling of onion. Run by third generation greeks, your table order gets relayed Bill Goat Tavern style, no cheeseborger, cheeseborger, but "one up" for a single coney served on a plate.


Lafayette Coney Island
(313) 964-8198
118 W Lafayette Blvd
Detroit, MI 48226

About 15 years ago, I tried Cincinnati chili for the first time. Before that moment I had been reading about 5 way and all sortsa other regional specialities in the Stern books. Those books, of course, made me interested in at least trying the chili. Going into Cincy I thought I'd enjoy the experience of "trying" the chili, but I did not expect that much. I was surprised how much I really liked Cincinnati chili. It was good, really good. It set the standard for regional oddities over the years. And what I have found, with things like LA french dips, Central Texas BBQ, NY pastrami, Boston Indian pudding, [ed. italian beef?]etc., is that these things are not just interesting but exceptionally tasty. There is a reason they have become famous.

Which meant that when lunch came around in downtown Detroit, I knew exactly where I needed to go. For once, the hype did not match the product. I cannot fully say "so what" because, as well described above, Layfette Coney is a classic, the kinda of barely changed, Hopperesque place I live for. Still, the product just did not move me. At all. And when I tried for the sake of chow-science, All-American next door, I did not leave any more blissed.

The Detroit coney dog gets griddled and then condimented with chili sauce, mustard and onions (I skipped the latter). The dog itself is pretty good, well crusted from the griddle and a nice smokey flavor. The toppings, however, added nothing. Bland is not quite a word for chili, but I am not quite sure the word (Antonius, MikeG, Hammond, Desmond?) for something with flavors that still have little taste.

I passed through Greektown a few times for reasons I cannot detail and rued missing the lamb with squash daily special. I did buy a some nice pastries at Astoria.

To end, I'll add that for someone like me, who fetishizes over old buildings (and old stuff generally), downtown Detroit is a fine place to hang for a day. I think I counted 3 skyscrapers built after 1985.

Being a Cincinnati native and a Detroit fan, I have always been torn by the Skyline Coney Island vs. the Layayette Coney Island comparison.

The Cincinnati Coney Island has an undersized steamed tasteless dog on a tiny bun covered with great toppings. The Detroit Dog is well prepared and tasty hot dog that is topped with a fairly mediocre chili sauce that you can doctor up a bit with some hot sauce.

I have to confess that the only time I get a coney in a Cincinnati chili parlor is at funerals. Most of my relatives consider the coneys a "rip-off" (like "where's the beef") and make them at home where they can used a "regular sized" dog.

jlawrence01 wrote: Most of my relatives consider the coneys a "rip-off" (like "where's the beef") and make them at home where they can used a "regular sized" dog.

Which begs the question, do you get a cony dog for the dog or for the chili sauce topping? It seems to me that they are all made with sub-standard dogs (compared to our beloved Vienna's), so the answer, for me anyway, would be that I get a Cony dog for the novelty toppings, not for the dog. I am, however, not from Cincy or Detroit, so maybe I'm off base here.

stevez wrote:It seems to me that they are all made with sub-standard dogs (compared to our beloved Vienna's), so the answer, for me anyway, would be that I get a Cony dog for the novelty toppings, not for the dog. I am, however, not from Cincy or Detroit, so maybe I'm off base here.

Believe it or not, there are wieners that are as good as Vienna's in Cincinnati and Detroit.

However, there is ONLY one weiner *smaller* than the ones used by Skyline Chili's - cocktail weiners.

While Zingerman's Deli is great, don't miss Zingerman's other places in Ann Arbor. The Roadhouse is my favorite. They prepared a wonderful brunch for the dedication of the Longone Culinary Collection at U Mich this year. True devotion to almost lost American foods such as South Carolina rice and stone-ground grits is evident there. The Indian pudding was heavenly! Oysters are featured. Enjoy!

SInce we are on the topic of Michigan foods, has anyone tried the restaurants in and around Mexicantown (Vernor St. Area). Any experience or recommendations??

My Windsor-born wife has been to the actual Mexican Town restaurant, on Bagley, a half dozen times and recommends it. The food reminds her, she says, of Nuevo Leon (where we dined last night). Fresh-made tortilla chips, etc. I've never been, so I can't say one way or the other.

On further grilling she actually says "the menu reminds me of nuevo leon. there's ntohing really unique." She continues, "if you really want mexican food, just wait until you come back to chicago".

So who knows.

MJN wrote:Saluting the General at Oriental Express

Made a stop in Ann Arbor for my favorite General Tsos chicken in the country.

i beg to differ! was forced to eat in this town for almost 5 years... spent 1 thanksgiving meal, alone, flirting w/ the waitress at Lucky Kitchen on North Campus, ex-gf/almost-wife worked @ China Gate etc.; it's commonly known Dynersty's General Tso's Chickenis the 'best' - forgive me for word usage...

digicams weren't readily available during college, so i have no proof of above. i also don't know what kind of drugs they put in the batter, but... it's just addictive, and not in a good way.

Dynersty's gotta website? what the heck
241 EAST LIBERTY
ANN ARBOR, MI 48104.
734-998-0008

now.. does anyone know where i can get a good BURGER in GR/Wyoming, etc.?

Dynersty is decent, and I only offer an opinion of "my favorite". Lucky Kitchen was horrible chinese. That being said, Dynersty was often inconsistent and occasionally overtly spicy. More importantly the place just didn't care about consistency or cleanliness. Dynersty was often perjoratively called diner-sty or die-nasty by my friends.

jlawrence01 wrote:Believe it or not, there are wieners that are as good as Vienna's in Cincinnati and Detroit.

I grew up in Detroit and have visited Cincinnati at least twice a year for the last two decades and I never found any.