Las Vegas on $600 a day; or, Tao at the Venetian Sucks, etc.

I just returned from Las Vegas. Mrs. JiLS should be here shortly (traveling on different planes due to my work that includes a couple of stressful year-end closings). Anyway, Friday night I rolled into Las Vegas, met up with Mrs. JiLS and our friend Emme from L.A. (ex-of Paris ... France, not Las Vegas) and we walked into Tao at the Venetian approximately 15 seconds before they gave away the table. Wish we'd loitered some in the Venetian's lobby, because Tao is truly, amazingly bad, in the way that only a place that is also obscenely expensive can be. First, the entire theme of the place is a ludicrous cultural mish-mosh ... despite the name, the only Taoist reference in the entire place is the restrooms ("Yin" for the Ladies, "Yang" for the fellas). Otherwise, the place is pumped full of Buddhas -- a gigantic 30-foot tall Buddha, nooks filled with gold-leaf Buddhas, Buddha, Buddha, Buddha! Everywhere. (Note for Tao managers: Buddhism is to Taoism as penguins are to bicycles.) The pretention and vapidity is matched only by the preciousness and airheaded optimism that if we just throw enough spaghetti at the wall, we'll be PoMo abstract expressionist scenemakers. (N.B: No, you won't.)

Anyway, Tao was awful. Food was about equivalent to P.F. Chang's; you can't exactly say it's terrible, but there is no inclination to go back. A decent peppery shrimp appetizer was tasty, but the $9.00 "Bamboo Steamed Chicken and Water Chestnut Dumplings" were just fair to middling pot stickers. The "Thai Fish Hot Pot with Lobster, Scallops, Shrimp, Squid and Clams" was a decently spiced broth with a reasonable volume of seafood, but nothing special, either. Well, I won't waste anymore time typing about the yawn-inducing and 50% to 100% overpriced food of Tao anymore. They clearly seem to be targeting young scenesters and/or rubes with unsophisticated taste who are easily impressed with pretention and without a cultural frame of reference to properly load up their bullshit detectors; like so much of Las Vegas and any other resort town, of course. As just one example, the fact that they consistently and insistently mispronounce their own name ... well, anyway.

Service at Tao was incompetent and offensive -- including sending a second-stringer out after we ordered our appetizers, not once but twice, to pressure us into ordering our main course when we were not ready to do so, because clearly they wanted us to leave as soon as possible to make room for the nightclubbers who were lining up outside as we ate (see more below). Also, our first bottle of wine was obviously corked. When I rejected the bottle, the cretin of a wine steward said, and I quote, "What's wrong with it?" My initial reaction was, "I don't like how it tastes, Jethro." But I bit my tongue and politely suggested it might be a little tiny bit CORKED. The wine was taken away and not replaced ... although they generously gave us the opportunity to order and pay for another bottle. Ten minutes later, the wine steward felt the need to come back to our table to inform us that the wine was "not corked, just not cooled to the right temperature." This was the wrong thing to say for two reasons, first of all because it was false, but second because if you were trying to defend yourself as the Tao wine god, wouldn't it be preferable to agree that a wine was corked (something wholly outside your control) than to admit/assert it was not served at the proper temperature (something entirely within your control and therefore YOUR FAULT)? Anyway, Tao sucked. Don't go there, ever. When we left at around 10:00, approximately 500 people (I am not exaggerating here) were waiting to get in, as they turn the place into a nightclub around that time. So that explains the handling we got from the second string server.

Saturday, we ate at Joel Robuchon's L'Atelier (not the big restaurant) at MGM Grand. Here, while the food was not up to expectation or price, at least it was an honest presentation and the service was impeccable. We arived at the stroke of 8:15 (our reservation time) and they had no place for us; three glasses of Champagne and sincere apologies were promptly provided. This meal was also not worth the cost ($650 for three diners) and was deeply disappointing. Two dishes were ethereal and transcendant (a lobster carpaccio and a foie gras and chestnut "soup" (actually a foam)); otherwise, the food was just competent but neither inspiring nor particularly delicious. In a similar price range, Alinea would wipe up the floor with these guys. It was not in the same class of unscrupulous rip-off represented by Tao at the Venetian (clearly these guys in the kitchen, who we could watch just like a Steak & Shake, were sincerely involved with what they were doing), but it just fell short. Wine pairings, by the way, were amazingly good and surprisingly affordable compared to the prices of the menu itself.

Sunday night we ate at the 46 steakhouse at the Flamingo, which had the advantage of being in our hotel. Other than that, it was pretty mediocre and not something I would recommend.

Finally, let me note that our friend Emme, who among other places has lived in Paris for a number of years, really liked the Paris Las Vegas hotel, found it charming and, in particular, LOVED Mon Ami Gabi. Now, those who are only familiar with the Chicago original should note that the Las Vegas MAG has "cafe" seating on the Strip that is amazingly fun to while away people-watching time. But beyond the perfectly reproduced Paris cafe environment, the fresh baguettes impressed the heck out of our ex-Parisienne friend (it is extraordinarily good bread; I think the loaves at Sabatino's are the only rival in my experience). Basically, MAG got a lot right and not much wrong, and as I reafirmed on our Sunday lunch there, a lot better than Joel Robuchon's L'Atelier. So that's the verdict on French impressionism in Las Vegas eateries.

One last note, the coffee served at the snack bars in the Flamingo is approximately 75% better than you would ever expect it to be. And you can drink it while wandering among the African penguins, flamingos and oher exotic birds that wander the back lot. So that, plus the slots, can take your mind off the crappy dining experiences. Next time, I will allow more time to get to LOS and other worthy places; this visit was more about having fun and catching up with our friend on a lark in Las Vegas at New Year's.

As just one example, the fact that they consistently and insistently mispronounce their own name ... well, anyway.

How, precisely? Tayo? Towel? Or does it change with where the employee was from before moving to Vegas?

So that's the verdict on French impressionism in Las Vegas eateries.

Except, of course, for Picasso.

Mike G wrote:

As just one example, the fact that they consistently and insistently mispronounce their own name ... well, anyway.

How, precisely? Tayo? Towel? Or does it change with where the employee was from before moving to Vegas?

They pronounce it with a strong front-palatized "T" rather than the soft, mid-palate sound, closer to a "d" that is the correct pronunciation of the leading consonant in "Tao." Like the first syllable of "towel" versus the first syllable of "dowel." Pronunciation of "Tao".

And maybe I will hit Picasso next time around in L.V. I've heard plenty of good things about it. And I also want to see the real deal in Joel Robouchon's restaurant (not L'Atelier)). Anybody been?

The tragedy of my life is that 15 years ago, we had reservations for Robuchon in Paris and screwed up the date, realizing on Wednesday we were supposed to have gone on Tuesday. I wonder now, though, in the age of Adria and Keller, if I would find Robuchon revelatory as I probably would have then. (I did finally eat at Ducasse, who took over Robuchon's namesake restaurant, but enough about me.)

I ate at Picasso about 5 years ago and it was first-rate, I don't remember food specifically (I also might be a tougher critic now) but I do remember being especially impressed by the wine pairings (and finding Bin 36's far inferior a few weeks or months later).

Well, somebody likes Joel Robuchon Las Vegas!

I ate at Picasso in October. It was one of the best meals that I ate in 2005. Nothing mindblowing from a creative standpoint, but very well executed upper-end dining.

Jim,

Sorry to hear about your disappointing meals. Unfortunately, you got what could be pretty much expected at the hotel places (with one or two notable exceptions)...especially on a big weekend like New Years Eve. Weren't you paying attention?

stevez wrote:Weren't you paying attention[/url]?

Yes, but I wasn't in control this weekend. Next year, I'll put my foot down and hit the spots I really want to. This time around, it was not meant to be (that plus the fact that I was originally scheduled to be there 4 nights and could only make it for 3).

My sincerest apologies, JiLS!

I know I was the one who recommended Tao, and while I have managed to eat tons of hors d'ouerves and consumed lots of free alcohol, I had heard nothing but good things about it from others. I should know better than to recommend something I hadn't officially tried to a Chicago foodie.

That whole weekend seemed to be an ill-fated one for many visitors I spoke to, including locals such as myself.

But please don't let those experiences leave a bad taste in your mouth. There are plenty more excellent restaurants here that are run more smoothly. And yes, I'll even use the holiday weekend as an excuse.

Leaving for Vegas tomorrow, and besides the obvious gambling, we'll be breakfasting, lunching or dining at (in no particular order):

Peppermill (old-school Vegas breakfasts)
Commander's Palace (one of the best in LV--we'll see...)
Makino (better than any sushi buffet in Chicago)
El Sombrero (hole-in-wall Mexican--supposedly outstanding)
Lotus of Siam (cannot wait to try this one!)
Hugo's Cellar (sommelier wears cup around neck)

Any reports about the above? Thanks muchly...

I reported on LoS and The Peppermill previously.

Nothing exceeds like excess at the Peppermill: 10-egg omelets, massive platters of food... we spent almost as much here on breakfast as we did at Lotus the night before -- we certainly didn't need any lunch afterward.
It's also supposed to be a late-late (or early-early, depending on which way you come at it) hangout for celebs and high rollers, it was mentioned on some Vegas oriented show that Penn and Teller can be seen there frequently. With all the neon and brightly-colored napkins, uniforms, etc., it's definitely a PRE-hangover stop.

jnm123 wrote:Leaving for Vegas tomorrow, and besides the obvious gambling, we'll be breakfasting, lunching or dining at (in no particular order):

Peppermill (old-school Vegas breakfasts)
Commander's Palace (one of the best in LV--we'll see...)
Makino (better than any sushi buffet in Chicago)
El Sombrero (hole-in-wall Mexican--supposedly outstanding)
Lotus of Siam (cannot wait to try this one!)
Hugo's Cellar (sommelier wears cup around neck)

Any reports about the above? Thanks muchly...

Please follow the link in my post above. It sounds like you are on the right track, but you may want to add Memphis Championship BBQ to your list.

jnm123:

I'll try not to lead you astray as I did JimInLoganSquare!

Go to the Makino at the Premium Outlets on Charleston. That's the good one.

Lotus of Siam for dinner.

Peppermill for late night breakfast.

The rest of the choices on your list are right on as well.

gmonkey wrote:I'll try not to lead you astray as I did JimInLoganSquare!

No, you didn't lead me astray at all. As I noted in my post, the food was generally pretty good, just not remarkable nor worth the price -- but as you point out, you were comped on the food, so how would you have known? And the lousy service that really sealed their fate with me -- well, you didn't experience that, either. I have a feeling that this place saw a big red "hoi polloi" sign on my forehead, and that's how they treat the majority of their customers. That being said, I think others would run the risk of bad service, and at the prices charged, it ain't worth it. But I can see how it would be a fun place if you were being treated well by the staff (and not paying for it).

Personally, I liked the Mokino on Decatur. Great food, less of a crowd. It is a serious upgrade over Todai.

Hey gmonkey---

Funny you should say Makino on Charleston in the Premium Outlets. That's the one we're trying, probably Sunday when they open. Haven't been at that one yet, just the Makino on Decatur a couple times, which is very very good, better than Todai in Vegas or at Woodfield here. Inventive stuff--all kinds of hand rolls, and really fresh--I had a tempura maki roll that was just made, and experienced that wonderful hot/cold mix.

Problem is, Makino is a buffet, and if one does justice to one, Japanese or no, you either need to walk it off or sleep afterwards. Think we'll walk it off whilst touring Lake Las Vegas, then hopefully be ready for Hugo's at 7:30 that night. I think if you try 3 a day in Vegas, you'll explode.

I ate at Picasso last year (by myself - on business and no one I knew wanted to go). Let me preface this by saying I'm a huge fan of Julian Serrano, I think he is wonderful and I have enjoyed his food in the past (Masa, SF, 1998). Picasso was okay - it was very well executed but not interesting. I didn't learn anything new or make happy eating sounds, which I expect when eating at a restaurant of that level. The food was tasty, but I would not go back - I'd rather spend the money elsewhere. The setting is lovely, so if you want a pleasant if uninspiring meal and good service, Picasso is it.

I'll be going back to Vegas in March -- definitely open to recommendations!

JimInLoganSquare wrote:..... because Tao is truly, amazingly bad, in the way that only a place that is also obscenely expensive can be. .

If you think Tao is bad, then don't miss Valentino or the Grille at Valentino the next time you visit. Both are worse than bad. But at least the service stinks, too. If your idea of a good time is to spend $75 on a jar of Prego, then these are the places to go.

Just got back from Las Vegas last night, and wanted to make a few remarks while the memories were still fresh.

Commander’s Palace---like Mary Poppins, it was ‘practically perfect in every way’. From the fresh, warm baguettes served in paper bags to the knee-buckling turtle gumbo au sherry, our party of four felt right at home from the get-go. The shrimp remoulade appetizer sang. Two of us ordered the filet mignon with smashed potatoes and a homemade Worcestershire sauce; of course the filet was perfectly done medium & juicy, and the sauce should be bottled—this ain’t no Lea & Perrins. The other two ordered grilled mahi-mahi and a poached hake, the latter of which tasted like the freshest haddock direct from Boston Harbor. Dessert? Well, the Brennans (supposedly) invented Bananas Foster, so we had that with a scoop of homemade French vanilla ice cream—it was decadent, especially after we found out that the sauce consists of butter, brown sugar and banana liqueur. It was topped off with multiple cups of that New Orleans style of strong coffee with chicory, completing the transformation to the Crescent City. The bill of $264 before tip was well worth the pleasure. One more item about this phenomenal place—when a course is served, the entire waitstaff brings out every plate simultaneously & seamlessly, the true meaning of ‘service’. The place has only been open 6 years, (with the original in New Orleans still closed), but Commander’s Palace has truly hit its stride. Best overall meal I’ve ever had in Vegas.


Hugo’s Cellar---a winner in its own right. Each lady is presented a rose, and this seasoned gem at the Four Queens does not disappoint. The Brit-accented sommelier wore a cup around his neck, and sounded like he knew his grape. Salads mixed individually at the table are a classy start. I had rack of lamb, and with nine juicy chops, I could not finish (and it’s a shame that doggie bags don’t translate to Vegas well!). However, their two side sauces, an ‘Indonesian’ peanut sauce & a mint/maple, were oddly out of place and not necessary. Wife’s scallops were prepared perfectly. The whole meal had an old-Vegas supper club feel, something that cannot be reproduced on the Strip. Two hundred for the four of us before tip.


El Sombrero---this little place (only 12 tables) on Main Street in that decidedly funky area between the north Strip and Downtown serves authentic southwest US Mexican fare, unlike the TexMex found in Chicago or the nouvelle/uninspired Mexican food found inside many Vegas casinos. Tortillas are fresh, and the pork tamales are wonderful, with perfect polenta-like masa with spiced shards of pork inside. Seriously good, and medium priced.


Ming’s Table---if you can find this place inside the labyrinth-like Harrah’s on the Strip, you’ll be pleasantly surprised at solid, slightly-upscale Cantonese food served here. We were wandering around, almost lost but hungry nonetheless, and were happy to sit, sip pots of scented Chinese tea, and dine on fresh lettuce wraps, hot & sour soup flecked with egg & tofu, and sizzling chicken & peppers, like an Oriental fajitas. Pricewise a little higher than your Chicago carry-out, but still one of the cheaper Chinese places on the Strip.


Makino (Premium Outlets on Charleston)---all I have to say is that both Makinos (the other one is near Sahara and Decatur) are great. This buffet is a little more ‘industrial’ than the homey-type atmosphere of the other, but the diversity of offerings is right on the money here as well. Melt-in-your-mouth salmon sushi (my Japanese colleague says the quality is right up there with the revered Katsu), fresh hand rolls and broiled unagi sets this a step above Todai. Sixteen bucks for lunch, and I got a couple pair of cheap Reeboks in the attached mall to boot.


Peppermill---what could be better than a killer turkey club sandwich at 7AM Vegas time when your internal clock is still in Chicago? At eleven dollars it was a bit pricey, but the weirdness in this garish place makes up for it. Other posters bragged about the ’10-egg omelettes’, but the 10-egg WHITE omelette is still huge. I hope this place stays in its rightful location across from the Stardust forever.

Funny about Valentino. My two meals at the LA (Santa Monica, actually) original rank very high on my most-disappointing list.