My girlfriend recently left Chicago for Iowa City, which is too bad in all kinds of ways. She’s there for school; I can’t imagine why anyone would otherwise move to Iowa City. But that’s not the point. The point is, on our way to a hike, in the town of Solon (10m NE of IC), we passed a sign for JOENSY’S RESTAURANT: HOME OF THE BIGGEST & BEST PORK TENDERLOIN IN IOWA. That kind of sign is, to me, hypnotically inviting. It doesn’t really matter what follows “BIGGEST & BEST.” TATER TOTS. TACO SALAD. MEATBALLS. Whatever.
I’m a recent convert to the pork tenderloin sandwich, having lived in the Midwest only 3 years or so. Admittedly, I am not a superfan; it seems like the kind of food that needs early childhood exposure to provoke an adult devotion. But I like them. I’m no ethnofoodilogical historian, but I’d postulate that there’s a connection between the modern day PTS and the Indiana/Iowa/Illinois Germans who settled here; the sandwich is some kind of Americanized schnitzel. It seems to have a small, dedicated
following.**
As shown in the pictures below, the first thing you will notice about Joensy’s PTS is that it is undeniably huge. As for the taste: it’s mild and light and crispy— pleasantly airy, somehow— the kind of sandwich that almost seems like a vehicle for something else. It is definitely the kind of sandwich that is helped by condiments. People like yellow mustard. I used coleslaw. It seems less substantial than a deep-fried pork sandwich should be; the key descriptor of Joensy’s PTS would be: light. The best way I can think to articulate this is by saying I managed to eat the whole thing without much difficulty. (And though I am a glutton, it didn’t feel like gluttony here.) Though the bun was sub-stellar, it is indeed the best PTS I’ve had in Iowa, better than that other one I had once at some forgettable place off some road somewhere.
If you’re not already a convert, it’s hard to recommend going out of your way, to Solon, IA, to eat at Joensy’s; the restaurant is really just a cavernous bar with football and NASCAR posters and a faint after-fratparty smell. But if you like pork tenderloin sandwiches, and you like them very, very large, and you happen to be driving west on I-80:
Joensy’s
101 W Main St
Solon, IA
(319) 624-2914
** It is also the subject, apparently, of a
film. Previous LTH discussions:
here,
here, and
here.
ps: here is a bonus picture of my girlfriend's 'tater skins, which are really just skins-on steak fries covered in ground beef and melted cheddar cheese, and are either increadibly good or incredibly revolting, depending on who you are, and what your tastes are. (My girlfriend and I were in the former camp.)