Mr. X and I had a great short getaway in New Orleans recently. Using tips from LTH and some suggestions from co-workers, we're already talking about our next visit.
Friday lunch: Johnny's Po-Boys. We split a catfish po-boy and gumbo. Mr. X commented that it was the best, freshest catfish he's had. Perfectly fried with a breading that didn't overwhelm. The gumbo was good as well.
Friday cocktail: Sazerac at the Sazerac, Roosevelt Hotel. I don't like anise or licorice. I had no problems with the hint of anise from the herbsaint. It was a damn fine drink and a perfect pre-nap cocktail. Mr. X had a French 75.
Friday dinner: Commander's Palace. We had early reservations and were seated in a corner table on the main floor. It is quite the setting and was a wonderful experience. After enjoying a cocktail (hibiscus martini for me, Adelaide Swizzle for him), we went for the three course prix fixe. We both started with the trio of soups (turtle, gumbo and an artichoke crab.) Mr. X had the mixed grill, which had boudin, andouille and rib-eye (possibly filet?). I had the caraway crusted scallops. Dessert was the bread pudding soufflé for me and the strawberry shortcake for him. It's telling to me that I had a hard time remembering what I had as an entree at CP. That's not to say it wasn't good -- it really was. The artichoke soup was the best of the three soups and they were all good. The mixed grill was a great way for us to sample different specialties. I would go back for that bread pudding soufflé in a heartbeat.
Friday post-dinner: A short stroll on Bourbon Street ended in a stop for a set or so at Irving Mayfield's Jazz Playhouse at the Royal Sonesta. Great room and no cover, at least for the show we saw.
Saturday lunch: Casamento's. After wandering through the Garden District and Lafayette Cemetery, we headed over to Casamento's for lunch. Simple yet wonderfully prepared food. We split a half-dozen oysters. They were so fresh and delightful, some of the best I've had. I continued on the oyster theme with a cup of oyster stew and half an oyster loaf. This meal continues to haunt me in its simple perfection. Mr. X stayed on his catfish theme with a catfish loaf preceded by a cup of gumbo. It was a decent gumbo, but Johnny's had the best of our trip. We split an Abita Andygator, a doppelbock. Really a great lunch.
Saturday dinner: Dante's Kitchen. We headed back out to the Riverbend area to sample their seasonal menu of local cuisine. This is another meal that has resonated with me. We started with a cocktail at the bar to wait for our table. (We were early.) Once seated, we shared plates. We started with their shrimp and grits. Great stuff -- "andouille red-eye gravy" per their menu over perfectly cooked grits and shrimp. We followed this with the charcuterie plate, which included mortadella, house-made pate and manchego. The thing that put this over the edge for me was the cherry mustard and the pickled radishes. For our entree, we had the corn-bread crusted flounder with hoppin john and a side of sautéed Brussels sprouts with bacon. Delicious! I have somehow blanked on dessert. We had a lovely bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir. I enjoyed the setting and really loved the food.
Post-dinner Saturday: Frenchmen Street. We caught the tail-end of Carol Fran’s late show at Snug Harbor. She’s a 77 year-old spitfire. We then wandered the street and landed at Three Muses for some great cocktails and terrific band. Three Muses had an interesting menu that I’d like to explore next time.
Sunday brunch: Surrey’s Café & Juice Bar. After a quick snack from the continental breakfast at our hotel, we headed out into the sun to walk over to Surrey’s. There was a wait for a table, but it was worth it for Mr. X’s entrée alone. It was a take on biscuits and gravy. A bacon scone was covered in a tasso gravy, two eggs (over-easy) with hash browns. Fantastic stuff. I had the special omelet, shrimp Veracruz with a black bean salsa. I was envious of the bacon scone. The meal at Surrey’s was a perfect base for a trip to the zoo.
Sunday lunch: Tracey’s. We had passed Tracey’s in our wanderings. When I spotted someone in a Bears jersey, I felt it was the best place for us to catch the game after visiting the zoo. It was packed when we got there, but we were able to grab a table before half-time. An order of fried mushrooms, fried okra and a roast beef po-boy soon followed. Good stuff, especially the sandwich. Not quite an Italian Beef, but moist and flavorful. Too bad the Bears lost. The Abita Ambers helped.
Sunday supper: Coop’s Place. We weren’t terribly hungry, but we needed something. Mr. X was hankering for jambalaya and I remembered Coop’s Place had it on their menu. Mr. X went for the Coop’s Taste Plate: A cup of Seafood Gumbo, Shrimp Creole, Cajun Fried Chicken, Red Beans & Rice with Sausage, and Rabbit & Sausage Jambalaya. I just had a bowl of jambalaya with a side salad. The fried chicken on the taste plate was phenomenal. We were not disappointed with anything else on our plates. Loved the no-nonsense atmosphere and the great value.
We hadn’t had the obligatory beignets yet so we made our way over to Café du Monde. One order of beignets and a couple of café au laits between us and we waddled back to the hotel.
That was it for our dining adventures in New Orleans. It was a great trip in a beautiful town. My only other experience in NOLA was over 10 years ago and was focused on Bourbon Street. I am so grateful to have broadened my horizons (and waistline) and can’t wait to go back!
Johnny’s PoBoy - 511 St. Louis St. - New Orleans, LA 70130
http://www.johnnyspoboy.com/default.aspxCommander's Palace - 1403 Washington Ave. New Orleans, LA 70130
http://www.commanderspalace.com/Casamento’s Restaurant – 4330 Magazine St., New Orleans, Louisiana 70115
http://www.casamentosrestaurant.com/Dante’s Kitchen - 736 Dante St., New Orleans, LA 70118
http://danteskitchen.com/Surrey’s Café & Juice Bar – 1418 Magazine Street New Orleans, LA 70130
http://www.surreyscafeandjuicebar.com/Tracey's Bar & Restaurant - 2604 Magazine Street, New Orleans, LA 70130
http://traceysnola.com/Coop’s Place – 1109 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA 70116
http://www.coopsplace.net/Snug Harbor - 626 Frenchmen St., New Orleans, LA 70116
http://www.snugjazz.com/test/index.htmThree Muses – 536 Frenchmen St., New Orleans, LA 70116
http://www.thethreemuses.com/
-Mary