As I posted above, on Monday we made the 570 km drive from Barcelona to San Sebastian. Right after we cleared the city we stopped for a snack and were just delighted with the quality of the food at a plain old gas station. The cafeteria portion of the place was spotless, and freshly-made sandwiches of pata negra ham -- on perfectly crusty bread -- were being laid out on trays. We picked up a couple and ate them in the car. This was at least 2 major steps up from similar stops we're used to in the U.S. This is generally how it's been on my other trips through Europe but it was nice to see that Spain was no exception. A bit further toward San Sebastian, about halfway into the drive, we stopped again just to stretch our legs. This was at a larger, ARS-brand service area. What we encountered when we stepped inside was relatively spectacular. I'd left my camera in the car but captured a few shots on my phone . . .


Offerings at ARS
Some sort of roasted bird, pasta and vegetables



Offerings at ARS
Kabobs and and roast beast carving station



Offerings at ARS
Chicken preparations, more kabobs and vegetables



Offerings at ARS
Tortillas, croquettas and sandwiches

These shots don't even begin the capture the complete glory of this roadside eatery. The entire deal was so joyously civilized. There were real plates and silverware in use. Families sat together and ate as they likely would at any other restaurant. We didn't eat here but were almost disappointed that we weren't hungry when we arrived. It was just another example of what a great food culture there is in Spain -- one that seems to exist in all quarters.

Next, we moved on to San Sebastian, which I'll be recapping on this thread shortly.

=R=

Eagerly awaiting your next update!

We made the (kind of boring) drive to San Sebastian from Barcelona, and picked up some snacks at the Boqueria before we left, which was nice.

kathryn wrote:Eagerly awaiting your next update!

We made the (kind of boring) drive to San Sebastian from Barcelona, and picked up some snacks at the Boqueria before we left, which was nice.

I didn't think the drive was boring. I thought it was great on the way to San Sebastian, especially the last 90 minutes or so, much of which is breathtaking. The way back wasn't quite as exciting because we'd already seen it and the best stuff is at the beginning, not the end. But still, I thought it was pretty unique terrain. We'd hoped to take a different route back to San Sebastian (east through France, then south into Spain through the Pyrenees) but it's considerably longer and we had to conserve time.

=R=

The drive to San Sebastian from Barcelona reminded me a lot of the San Bernardino Mountains in California. I grew up around there, so didn't find it that interesting, until we hit the lusher areas of Basque Country.

Inspired by Ronnie's recent trip, I dug out some photos I took from a couple of the same places visited- the mercado and Bar Pinotxo @ the Boqueria

Great shots, Alan. Though, that marionette hanging at Pinotxo is downright terrifying!

We made our way back from our side trip to San Sebastian for a few final days in Barcelona before heading home. During those last days we managed to squeeze in a few more notable meals, including a terrific dinner at the legendary Cal Pep. I'd heard so much about this place, I'm really glad we checked it out. It's a bit of a show but that didn't diminish the food or the experience at all. Just as at Pinotxo Bar, the offerings are primarily seafood that is minimally prepared in the Catalan style. And again, it's ingredient-driven. The foodstuffs are of superior quality . . .


Cal Pep - Plaça de les Olles, 8 08003 Barcelona



The Scene
Cal Pep opens for dinner at 19:30 (they are also open for lunch on some days) and we made the minor misstep of arriving there at about 20:00. So, when we got there, the counter was already full and there was a wait. We counted the folks queued up in front of us and realized it wouldn't be too long. We stood along the wall opposite the counter (screen left) and ordered some drinks, which we sipped while we waited. It was a 2-beer wait, Estrella Damm.

From the number of languages we overheard -- and the number of guide books we saw being thumbed through -- it seems that the crowd is largely tourists. However, there's also a dining room in back and while we waited, several parties -- most of whom seemed like regulars -- strolled right past the counter and entered the dining room. It was our understanding that the downside of sitting in the dining room is that you are strictly served what is offered by the house. However, with no written menu for the counter (save for some shots on their website), we were essentially flying blind there, too. We managed by requesting a few ingredients we like (chickpeas, of course), asking for orders of things we saw being served to others around us and asking the affable Xavi, behind the counter, what he recommended. This approach worked out great, as it did throughout our trip.



Pep
The man himself, chatting with a customer.



Larger Than Life
There's a pretty strong emphasis on building the Cal Pep brand and compared to some other places in Barcelona, it stood out.



Refrigerator Case
There's no substitute for quality. The case held a beautiful selection of fish, seafood and other ingredients.



Penedes, Sumarroca, Blanc De Blancs, 2011
We never saw a list and I don't even know if there is one. We saw a few bottles of this crisp, tart white being served around us and ordered a bottle. It was a nice, food-friendly quaff and at 8.70 €, it was very reasonable.



The Counter
A few moments after we got our wine, plates of excellent food started arriving.



Clams With Ham
Sweet and tender clams accented perfectly by the ham.



Tomato Bread
The ubiquitous pa amb tomàquet.



Fried Squid
Light, crispy, tender and completely greaseless. Really nice.



Padron Peppers
There were no fiery ones in this batch but they were quite delicious.



Fried Sardines
Great stuff. I thought they were fried very nicely in that they were crispy and hot but still tender through the chew. I'm not sure we needed these and the squid shown above but they were still very tasty



Tortilla Trampera
A small omelet for the 3 of us to share.



Tortilla Trampera
You can see from the gooey insides that this little number was dead solid perfect. I can't find the literal translation for trampera (trapper?) but I'm guessing it means that the tortilla could contain anything the house had on hand.



Tuna Tartare
We just couldn't get enough raw fish and seafood on this trip. It's probably the thing I miss the most since our return. This dish was delicious, with a very light sesame note that played nicely in the background.



Xavi
I mentioned Xavi above and he's the man who runs the room. Our seats at the counter happened to be right in front of his primary position, so we got to watch him work his magic and also chat quite a bit with him.



Baby Squid with Chickpeas
At some point during the trip, I decided that whenever it seemed possible, I was going to order chickpeas. At Cal Pep, it paid off big time. We were served this sensational dish of tender baby squid in its own ink, in a stew with chickpeas.



Beef & Potatoes
We mentioned that we wanted to finish up the savory side with some meat. I'd hoped for -- but didn't specify -- some form of sausage. We didn't end up with that but we did end up with some surprisingly delicious and juicy beef, and rich, crispy potatoes.



Beef & Potatoes
A close-up on the gorgeous potatoes.

With dinner behind us, we decided to try one of each of the 2 dessert offerings . . .


Crema Catalana
Obviously, a signature item at Cal Pep, and a really nice take on the local standard.



Pastry
This eclaire-type item was really good, too. I generally prefer to have one chocolate dessert and one non-chocolate dessert, so this scratched the itch nicely.

Ever since the moment we walked in, I'd been spying a certain spirit atop the case behind the counter. I'd actually tried to order it before dinner but was waved off by Xavi, who told me it would kill my palate before we ate (lol, I knew this but had convinced myself there'd be time for it to recover before the food started coming). I said "después" and he nodded. And now, the time had come, and even though it wasn't exactly local, it was something I just couldn't get at home . . .


Havana Club 3-Year
Xavi chills a snifter before pouring the rum. Even now, being a good host, he tried to steer me off the Havana Club, offering me a few other rums he insisted were superior to it. He was right about those others but I explained that I already had bottles of those other rums at my house. And, even though this was only the 3-year, it was still a perfect cap to a terrific meal.

=R=

Cal Pep
Plaça de les Olles, 8
08003 Barcelona, Spain
933 10 79 61

Pinotxo=Pinocchio. I was told the resemblence of the owner to the character is the reason for this aptly named bar. He's in profile wearing the vest in my pix and the reason for the marionette.

Jazzfood wrote:Pinotxo=Pinocchio. I was told the resemblence of the owner to the character is the reason for this aptly named bar. He's in profile wearing the vest in my pix and the reason for the marionette.

Oh yeah, we saw the Pinocchio stuff when we were there and it was no less scary than it is in your picture.

I'd sure like to be having some of those razor clams and prawns for lunch today.

=R=

Some of the best food I've ever had. Went 3 days in a row which garnered me regular status of a sort, meaning, offered needlenose pliers to help w/those pesky langoustine shells. You can see in my pix of the hot line just behind the fryer is a glass rectangular loaf pan/casserole of sorts. It's used to keep some of the so fresh it's still alive seafood from walking off the plancha. Verdad.

We got a tip from a chef friend here in Chicago about a place called Set Portes in the Old Town, near the Boqueria. He told me it was old school but very reliable for seafood and that it was also open all day, which can be advantageous when you're looking for a decent place to eat between 14:00 and 19:00. It was our last full day in Spain, so we spent the morning picking up a few souvenirs at the market, then headed over to Set Portes for lunch. The place definitely has a touristy vibe but the quality of the food was solid, and our meal was enjoyable . . .


Set Portes - Paseo Isabel II, 14, 08003 Barcelona



Bread
Nice and crusty. Even at a modest spot like this, the bread was a strong entry.



Arbequina Olives
A tasty snack to munch on while we decided what to order.



Spanish Olive Oils
This was a bit gimmicky but I really appreciated being able to try these varietal Spanish olive oils side by side. My favorite was the arbequina. I thought it was fruity with a touch of pleasant bitterness and a great aftertaste.



Small Seafood Plate - shrimp, oysters, mussels, sea snails
Our friend was absolutely right about the seafood. This small platter was great and I wish we'd ordered more of it.



Whelk
I really liked the whelks -- just pop open the trap door and pluck them out the shell with a mini fork.



Sauces (romesco and aioli)
Served with the seafood platter, these sauces were both pretty darned tasty. It doesn't look like much but the romesco was one of the tastiest versions I can remember having.



Arugula Salad with Goat Cheese from Cerdanya
We wanted something green and even though this salad was tasty, there were a lot fewer greens than we expected. Still, it was tasty and the greens -- more of an assortment than strictly arugula, as touted on the menu -- were fresh and bouncy. I also thought the slightly warm goat cheese was excellent.



Escalivada
These strips of wood-roasted peppers and eggplants were really smokey and quite delicious. This was so simple and yet so enjoyable.



Wine
My wife ordered this 375 ml bottle of house white. I tasted it and thought it was a nice accompaniment for most of what we ate. I was in the mood for beer and ordered a glass of Catalan beer, Barril, which was very food-friendly.



Paella Manolete
Paella isn't Catalan but we realized that our trip was ending and we hadn't yet had it. Since this was our last chance for it (we knew we wouldn't have it at our dinner later this night), we hoped that the strength of the seafood here would extend to the paella. Unfortunately, it really didn't. The seafood in it was really nice, as were the sausage and the fish but the rice just wasn't quite right. It had good texture but a very caramelized flavor that dominated and overshadowed any other subtle flavors that might have been there. There were a few versions on the menu and we opted for this one because we liked the idea that it might contain any combination of ingredients. Again, this wasn't bad but it wasn't a stand-out, either.



Paella Manolete
A closer look.

It was a fine lunch and a perfect meal for the moment. If I were to go back, I'd skip the paella and load up on the seafood. In any case, with a big, special dinner coming up in a few hours -- our final meal in Spain on this trip -- we were already thinking ahead . . .

=R=

Set Portes
Paseo Isabel II, 14
08003 Barcelona, Spain
933 19 30 33

I'm hoping to read about your dinner at El Celler De Can Roca. Please don't let me down.

I am willing to go out on a limb and bet, say $5, that "trampera" is a case of Spanish borrowing the English word "tramp," in the context of hobos, vagabonds, camping out, and, with reference to "la cuisina trampera" aka "la cuisina campera," cooking over an open flame. I found this in a Spanish-language Scouting manual on nutrition and cooking:

"La cocina trampera es aquella que se realiza utilizando una fogata, y principalmente brasas, como cocina. Principalmente hay dos maneras de cocinar a la brasa, o bien con una parilla como barbacoa, o al papillot, es decir, envolviendo en papel de aluminio y dejándolo sobre las brasas."

--which is to say, roughly, "Tramp cooking is done using an open flame, and principally hot coals, to cook. There are principally two ways to cook over hot coals: with a grill like a barbecue, or 'in paper,' that is, wrapping the food in aluminum foil and placing it on the hot coals."

So I'm guessing that your tortilla trampera was cooked in aluminum foil.

Katie wrote:I am willing to go out on a limb and bet, say $5, that "trampera" is a case of Spanish borrowing the English word "tramp," in the context of hobos, vagabonds, camping out, and, with reference to "la cuisina trampera" aka "la cuisina campera," cooking over an open flame. I found this in a Spanish-language Scouting manual on nutrition and cooking:

"La cocina trampera es aquella que se realiza utilizando una fogata, y principalmente brasas, como cocina. Principalmente hay dos maneras de cocinar a la brasa, o bien con una parilla como barbacoa, o al papillot, es decir, envolviendo en papel de aluminio y dejándolo sobre las brasas."

--which is to say, roughly, "Tramp cooking is done using an open flame, and principally hot coals, to cook. There are principally two ways to cook over hot coals: with a grill like a barbecue, or 'in paper,' that is, wrapping the food in aluminum foil and placing it on the hot coals."

So I'm guessing that your tortilla trampera was cooked in aluminum foil.

Hmm, good insight but I think you're out $5. I don't think "trampera" was borrowed from "tramp", nor do I think it was cooked in aluminum foil. Trampa means "trick" or "trap" or "con" in Spanish, and although "tramposa" would be more grammatically correct if they wanted to say the tortilla was some sort of trick. But my guess would be that that might be the intent because it looks like it has alioli smeared all over it which is not typical and that the strong almost invisible garlic blast might be the "trampa". Just a guess.

MKL, "trampa" for "trick" was was my first guess too, and you might be right, but so far I think you owe me $5 for an unsuccessful challenge. You look up the recipes and there's nothing in them or explained about them that suggests a trick or trickery, or for that matter, a trapper (un trampero) or a cheating woman (una trampera).

Looking again, I found this recipe, however; note the heading of the instructions: "Para la tortilla 'en trampa' o de pobre."

And I found this:

"La cocina trampera es una de las técnicas scout que con más cariño se recuerdan con los años y con más diversión se viven mientras se realizan. Sin embargo, las sucesivas normativas sobre higiene y manipulación de los alimentos, y la dificultad en encontrar sitios donde se puedan hacer fuegos en la naturaleza, van relegando estas prácticas al olvido en muchos grupos." (See the website for photos of cooking food in foil packages on a campfire, and more nostalgic discussion of the joys of outdoor cookery.)

I don't know; maybe there is some trick to it. Or maybe Catalan Boy Scouts are taught to cook like cheating women.

Sólo sé que si aquello trampero Mike Sula intenta engañarme a comer una tortilla española con carne de squirrel, no me gustará para nada su trampa.

deesher wrote:I'm hoping to read about your dinner at El Celler De Can Roca. Please don't let me down.

We would have loved that -- and we exhausted every connection we had trying to make it happen -- but it was not to be. They're booked through the end of the year and there was nothing that anyone we know could do to get us in. Can Roca will have to wait until our next trip to Spain.

But there's no reason for sadness. Our final meal was at Tickets and it was, in a word, spectacular. An extremely generous friend reached out on our behalf and made it happen for us. It wasn't until 2 days before our meal that we knew for sure it was going to happen. I was thrilled because I'd never been to el Bulli and at least now I'd get a chance to experience the Adria aesthetic first-hand (and that of their partners, the Iglesias Brothers, for the first time). And as it turns out, the timing of it being our last meal in Spain was fortuitous. While the meal clearly would have been an extraordinary one at any point during our trip, having it at the end, after having eaten so much of the local cuisine in Barcelona and Basque Country, really helped us gain an additional appreciation for it. Tickets' distinctive, refined takes on several archetypal dishes we'd enjoyed earlier in the trip really resonated with us. Even though the deliciousness of the meal would have come through clearly under any circumstances, the additional context we'd accrued earlier in the trip enhanced the experience immeasurably.

Tickets really is a crazy endeavor. It's an entirely circus-like atmosphere, where even the staff wear uniforms that are a cross between Sgt. Pepper and Ringling Brothers. There are flashing message boards, decorative fake foods hanging from the rafters and even an ice cream cart -- complete with ringing bell -- that is rolled around the dining room, as its operator makes cones for diners tableside throughout service. The space is actually defined by 6 specific food preparation areas, each with its own culinary aesthetic. One can sit anywhere in the restaurant and enjoy food -- essentially tapas -- from any of these 'kitchens.' Some of the areas are intended to represent a specific aspect of Spanish culture, others are defined more by the food items they're putting out. The place and all its components came together like a Fellini movie and restaurant rolled into one . . .


Tickets - Avinguda del Paral·lel, 164, Barcelona
Before the 19:00 opening, even though some have reservations, they queue up.



Tickets - Avinguda del Paral·lel, 164, Barcelona
Is Tickets a show, a restaurant . . . or both?



Staff meeting right before the opening
Seems like serious business.



Menu
LOL, well not entirely serious!

We were asked if we wanted to order on our own or just have the house take care of it. We opted for a blend, telling Xavi our captain and Claudia our server -- both of whom were incredibly friendly and knowlegeable -- that we'd leave it in their hands but that we might request a few items from the menu along the way. That worked out great. We were served a base meal of what I'm guessing they felt were some of Tickets' strongest offerings. And, when something on the menu -- or served to a table near us -- looked good, we'd ask about it and almost always order it. Not too long into the meal, Xavi and Claudia began to understand that we were adventurous and they started asking us if we'd like this or that, which was also nice. The result was an epic meal during which we tried a large amount of dishes on the menu and a few that do not appear to be.

First off, we decided to start out with a bottle of white rioja. The wine list is only in Spanish but it was fairly easy to navigate. It's a list of fairly young, food-friendly wines that are priced very reasonably. We chose a 2009 Bodegas Luis Canas Amaren Fermentado en Barrica Blanco (Rioja DOCa, Spain), which, at €25, was a friendly price. After our wine was opened, the onslaught began . . .


Watermelon infused with sangria
Juicy in the most sensational of ways. It was just slightly boozy and the flavors of the sangria enhanced the melon nicely.



Joselito's Gran Reserva Iberian Ham
After having ham all over the place, it was interesting to have the one that this team had chosen for their menu. It was terrific, with a nice funk and subtle sweetness and nuttiness.



Tomato Bread
A superior version, of course.



Iberian Shoulder
Tasty lomo and again, it was great to taste the take chosen by this team.



The Olive-S by Tickets
This is actually "The Charity Tapa" at Tickets and for every jar of these olives sold, half a Euro is donated to the house's chosen charity. Of course, these are the "olives" made famous at el Bulli, and they're not really olives at all. They're actually made from pureed olives, which are encapsulated with sodium alginate and then brined. We tried 2 varieties: the Tickets house olives shown here and the Gordal Adobada shown below. They were both delicious. This variety was slightly milder in flavor but both really had smooth afternotes.



The white anchovie (sic) that wanted to be an anchovie (sic)
LOL, I was convinced. It was an anchovy to me, and it was a briney and delicious bite.



The Olive-S by Tickets - Gordal Adobada
More strongly-flavored than the version shown above.



Xuxi with tomatoe (sic) seeds and Cantabrian anchovie (sic)
I hope to not open up another linguistics debate (:wink:) but I'm pretty sure that xuxi is a thin crust of bread, almost like a melba toast. Here, fresh tomato seeds and a delicious anchovy sit atop one.



Slices of tuna belly with its tartare, panceta (sic) and salmon roe
Delicate in texture, bursting with great flavors. This bite was truly inspired.



Codium tempura with its vinagrette (sic) jus
This fried seaweed varietal was handled exceptionally well. It was light, crispy and delicious without being greasy in the least. The vinaigrette (not pictured) provided a nice focal point.



Miniairbags stuffed with manchego cheese
Another awesome one-biter. Being a huge fan of manchego, I loved eating this meaningful manipulation.



Tomato Salad
I don't believe this one was on the menu but think deconstructed gazpacho, and one of the tastiest ones you've ever had.



Roast Beef ?
Going over our bill, by process of elimination I'm pretty sure this is a "roast beef" dish but I'm not 100% sure. I do remember enjoying it, though.



Avocado cannelloni with crab and romesco sauce
Just a phenomenal dish and so artistically composed. At its core it's so simple but the quality of ingredients and highly skilled preparation made it a truly memorable dish.

At this point, Claudia asked us if we liked oysters. We told the truth and trios of 3 separate oyster preparations came out in succession (there are at least 7 offered on the menu). I do not know their provenance but they are credited on the menu as being provided by Mariscos Genaro. They were meaty, briney and so delicious . . .


Oysters - with their pearls



Oysters - Sherry vinegar, tarragon and olive oil caviar



Oysters - Catalan fish broth Suquet
Unlike the other 2 preps, this one was served warm. Suquet is a Catalan fish stew that typically includes saffron, onion, garlic, tomato and almonds. Claudia asked us which was our favorite and if I had to choose, I'd probably go with prep #2 but this suquet was also excellent...ok, so was #1.



Razor clams in escabeche sauce, saffron pearls and soy sauce shards
This was sublime and after having simply grilled razor clams on a few occasions earlier in the trip, it was great to have this more composed take.



Tuna belly tartare with a light spicy sauce and lime
This was a delight with tender subtle tuna that melted in mouth. The sauce was beautiful, accenting the fresh fish without stepping on it. This was served with some crackers (possibly xuxi, not pictured).

Our bottle of white completed, we decided to finish up the meal with a bottle of red, and opted for a 2010 Alvaro Palacios Camins del Priorat (Priorat DOCa, Spain). Again, food-friendly and easily drinkable. This bottle was priced at €24, which was an even friendlier price than the white.


Macerated prawns with soy and ginger
After feeling for days that there was nothing better in this world than a simply grilled prawn with its head on, this more prepared take had me feeling that in the right hands, seeing a bit more of the chef's will was a perfectly wonderful thing.



Fish
I couldn't find this on the menu but looking at our bill, I'm pretty sure this was a fish of the day, marinated and fried crispily.



Fried egg with truffled duck fat and potato cream
Here's one that we saw served at a neighboring table and then requested. It was so delicious it surpassed the sum of its mighty parts.



The room
As I mentioned up top, Tickets is quite a show. Here, you can see the room. Notice the faux salamis and tomatoes hanging from the ceiling on the left side of the room.



Tickets
I got the sense that the branding notes here were more self-parody than anything else.



Ice cream cart
We weren't quite ready for dessert but the ice cream man was making the rounds.



"Mollete" vapor
This take on the regional Andalusian bread was one of 2 versions we were served. This one, stuffed with meaty ragout, was almost bao-like and really tasty. It was expertly steamed and supremely tender.



"Mollete" papada with double chin
When I think of molletes, this is more what comes to mind. It's muffin-like and round, not spherical. In any case, this griddled version was almost like a slider with some very tender slices of double chin pork and slightly sweet and tangy sauce that did not disrupt the umami moment this dish embodied.



Homemade sausages of Iberian "secreto" with "seques" beans
We love grilling secreto steaks at home and with its fattiness, which is similar to that of skirt steak, it's always seemed like a perfect cut from which to make sausage. So, when we saw this on the menu, we had to order it. Tickets' take on buttifara and white beans was, by a wide margin, the best one we tried on our trip. These sausages were packed with flavor and possessed a perfect definition. And you can see by just looking at the beans, how perfect they were.



Dessert kitchen
With the savory side of the meal behind us, we couldn't help but look to this dessert kitchen, which was adjacent to our table.



Liquid ravioli of Payoyo cheese
A delectable bridge course, with warm, liquified, grassy-sweet Andalusian goat/sheep cheese inside . . and I'm pretty sure that's a xuxi on top of it.



Cheesecake with lemongrass sorbet
A glorious take with a texture that was so satisfying, I kept eating it long after I should have.



Chocolate-filled buñuelos
Another great instance of chocolate in Spain that managed to hit my "C-spot" between sweet and bitter. Of course, it didn't hurt that the chocolate was served inside a light, masterfully fried little donut.



Warm lava cake of "turron de jijona" with raspberry sorbet
This nougat cake really was a sensation. The flavor here was rich, satisfying and intense.



Warm lava cake of "turron de jijona" with raspberry sorbet
Oozing center, get it while it's still running.



Tin
The vessel containing our bill and signaling the end of our meal (and the end of our trip).

I felt we really benefitted from the mastery and confidence of the Tickets team, which combined to create a truly magnificent and distinctive dining experience. Who else could pull off such a capricious, almost self-effacing venture as this? And who else would even have the balls to do it? It seems like a huge risk to decorate the eating experience in this way -- with so many overt distractions -- and still expect diners to comprehend and appreciate the seriousness and superior quality of the food being served. In an era where so many chefs and restaurateurs seem to take themselves way too seriously, Tickets is going the other way. Not resting on their laurels but leveraging them in a brilliant homage and empassioned lovesong to the culture of Spanish cuisine, the Adrias and the Iglesias have created the ultimate tapas bar.

=R=

Tickets
Avinguda del Paral·lel, 164
08015 Barcelona, Spain
932 92 42 53

Gorgeous. Thanks for the report! I think I recognize the olives from the elBulli menu at Next (did you go?).

The oysters are particularly gorgeous.

That crab dish looks somewhat similar to the Crab and Avocado roulade at Eleven Madison Park.

kathryn wrote:Gorgeous. Thanks for the report! I think I recognize the olives from the elBulli menu at Next (did you go?).

Thanks, for the kind words. Yes, we had something similar to these at Next during the el Bulli menu.

=R=

OMG, I'm leaving for Spain in 3 days and am already freaking the f out looking at these pictures.. I've already done my fair share of reading/anthony bourdain/jose andres research but these pictures are amazing and I'm taking notes. We are headed to Madrid for a few days, then Barcelona for another couple days, then San Sebastian for a few, then Santiago, Ourense, Porto and Lisbon.. All in all it will be 3 weeks of me shoveling gambas y cigalas y lubrigantes y boquerones y any and everything down my throat and I cannot wait

Lolita was one of our best meals in Barcelona. It was opened a few years ago with Albert Adria at the helm. He has since left to run Tickets one block down the street, but I understand his business partner has kept the experience very much the same. We arrived (Spanish) early at around 8:00 and sat at the bar. We quickly met Tony who turned out to be incredibly engaging and helpful, providing some of the most enjoyable service we have ever experienced in Europe.



Tony in the foreground, a portion of the kitchen in the back



The Standard Adria Bull?



Tomato Bread & Jamon Iberico



Sardines in Vinegar and Olive Oil



Tuna Loin with Tomato Jam and Ponzu



Quite delicious.

Iberico Croquettes





We had a lot of great croquettes on the trip and these were up there. The jamon provided a wonderful salty umami punch.

Feo de Tudela



Throughout the meal we kept seeing one of the chefs preparing a very simple tomato salad (not on the menu) out of these beautiful large tomatoes. We asked Tony about them. He explained that they are a very special variety that only come from a small town in northern Spain called Tudela. He said they are very hard to come by. The Feo de Tudela have a couple unique physical characteristics - they can grow very large, and they grow very ribbed and lumpy; thus their name, the Ugly of Tudela (check out this GIS: http://tinyurl.com/9wy6e9z ). They even have their own festival with contests for largest and ugliest. He confirmed that they were indeed his favorite tomatoes. With that endorsement, we had to order it.



The salad dressed with olive oil and sea salt lived up to the hype. I have to agree with Tony, this was the best tomato I had ever tasted. So sweet, almost candy-like, with a texture not far from raw tuna. Sad that I may never get to have one again. I will certainly seek them out the next time I am in Spain.

Mini-Burger



Standard, but quite flavorful and beefy. Probably should have gone for something more Spanish, but it was still very good.

Salmon Truffled Honey Montadito



Just awesome. Does any restaurants in Chicago do this dish? We also had it at Quiment & Quimet, and both versions were among my favorite bites of the entire trip

Flan



So creamy and soft. Perfect flan.

Torta Canarejal



Raw Spanish sheep's milk. Soft and creamy. Stinky and strong. Only complaint was ours wasn't quite liquid as some of the rounds turn out per some later google searching. Still fantastic, and nice to try some truly wonderful Spanish cheese.

Digestif



Gratis. Mint and ginger if I recall correctly. A nice sweet finish to our amazing meal. Lolita will definitely be on the top of our agenda if/when we are lucky enough to return to Barcelona.

jfibro--

That Feo de Tudela tomato sounds wonderful! I found this blog page that mentions it:
http://blogmiren.blogspot.ca/2011/10/tomates-de-la-semilla-al-fruto.html

and also mentions both Marmande and Raf (which look quite similar). Both of these are available as seeds. Marmande is in lots of places, and both it and Raf are here:

http://www.gardencenterejea.com/index.php?input=marmande&sec=18

I've grown Marmande, and it's pretty tasty.

If you find seeds of the Feo, pls to let us know!

Geo

Another place to add to the list!
Can't wait-
we fly to BCN next Tues...

Good to know that Lolita (formerly known as Inopia) is still firing on all cylinders. It looks like they have added outdoor seating (which they didn't have in 2009). I do recall waiting hours to eat there while Albert was still behind the helm.

For future visitors, do not miss the pineapple with lime zest and molasses for dessert. So simple, so wonderful. I've made it for parties a few times now.

I noticed a couple people here are visiting Barcelona soon, so I thought I'd add another data point: Gelonch.

It was the second best meal I had in Spain. That's to say I enjoyed the food at Gelonch much more than Mugaritz, Etxebarri, Akelarre, and all the great tapas/pintxo bars I visited. The food had hints of global influences, yet rooted in Catalan cuisine. Modern techniques were used sparingly but thoughtfully and to great effect. Here are some pictures of the meal I had.

I can't recommend it enough, and for a fine dining restaurant it was an excellent value at 63 Euros for 12 courses. The current menu on their site lists 56 Euros for 10 courses and 74 Eurors for 16 courses. They also have a tapas menu if you wish to go a la carte.

I had many of the same Barcelona meals as Ronnie who just recently posted about his trip, but did want to add my data points. I'll try to not be too repetitive.

Quimet & Quimet



It's been discussed here as well as elsewhere at length, but as has been said, Quimet & Quimet should be on any food focused person's agenda if heading to Barcelona.

The Madness



The Incredibly Capable Staff



She seemed constantly flustered but always had it together.

The House Beer



Several very good Belgians.

Tuna, Tomato Jam & Uni



This was the servers pick. Told her to make one of her choice. Fantastic.

Cured Beef



No idea what this was but saw her make several and had to have it. Awesome.

Salmon, Truffled Honey, Cheese



A must get.

Shrimp, Roasted Red Pepper & Pate, Onion Jam



Cheese





Simply a totally unique and delicious experience. We commented to the folks next to us that you probably couldn't redo this concept elsewhere (even in Barcelona), but because of how long it's been around and how well it's operated, it just works.

I had some very mediocre lunches in Barcelona. I should have just eaten at Pinotxo everyday.

We had ther razor clams and the chickpea sausage dishes pictured upthread. Both were excellent.

Potatoes with Ham, Onions and Alioli



Loved the addition of the ham and onion to give the old mayo-y standby some more flavor and contrast.

White Beans with Squid



Nice balsamic added a bit of sweetness. Wonderfully tender squid. Would love for a place in town to serve something like this and the chickpeas.

Xuixo





It practically broke our hearts when we went back on the last day of our trip to get one more Xuixo for breakfast to only find they do not serve them on Mondays. I searched for bakeries on my phone and quickly located a locally patronized, old-lady-in-charge spot that answered our cravings. Definitely not the same, but worked in a pinch.

We had about an equal number of mediocre meals in Barcelona as excellent ones. I think it's definitely a city to research ahead of time, because the places we really wanted to hit were the ones that delivered. Paco Meralgo was high on the list from the beginning of my research.

Paco Meralgo



The man himself I believe. It was strange because an English speaking server gave us menus and walked us through a bit before passing us off to Paco who was helpless when we requested dishes from their English menu. Eventually we'd point to what we wanted if we saw it coming out of the kitchen or tried our hand at our meager Spanish. We made it through.

Like at most of the places we visited, many of the ingredients are displayed at the bar.







Pan Con Tomate



One of the best versions of the entire trip.

Patatas Bravas



With spicy aioli and spicy olive oil. Crispy and delicious.

Bomba



Described as a meatball, it had much more breading than meat, but was still very good.

Garlic Shrimp



While tasty, we were disappointed in the serving for the price. 6 very small shrimp at I think around $15 or more - definitely not the ones on ice displayed further above.

Cockles



These were my first cockles, and I found them surprisingly sweet. They certainly won't be my last. Loved them.

Veal Sandwich



The picture does this zero justice, but it was simple and delicious. The bread must have been brushed with oil before grilling, because it had a great fried texture. The veal was a nice pink medium in the middle, moist, and quite tender.

House Cheese & Honey



Yeah, I could have this every night with dinner.

Chocolate, Olive Oil & Sea Salt Toast



Lived up to it's name. All the flavors came together for a perfect end to our awesome dinner at Paco Meralgo.

We did Paco Meralgo our first night in Barelona and it was amazing.. I have some pics but haven't even unpacked yet so maybe some day I'll upload them. We did Madrid, Barcelona, San Sebastian, Bilbao, Santiago de Compostela, Ourense, Porto and Lisbon.. All in all an amazing trip.

I'm going to try and get my Barcelona pix posted in the next day or two also...

OK- So Barcelona!
What a wonderful time we had!
Day 1 was an incredible day!

after a quick decompression at the Hotel, we took the metro to the Rambla, and started off with the best way to start a vacation,
Gelato!
walking down the Rambla, we came upon the Boqueria market.





Famous Iberian ham...





I love the pictures of the locals- and then there were these two jokers...


We moved on to our first Tapas dinner at the LTH reccomended Lolita Taperia:



starting it off right (and what better way to celebrate a 30th Anniversary trip) than with the first of many glasses of Cava?




This was a "marriage" of a white anchovy and a regular anchovy with oil, vinegar mist, and pepper.


Famous Iberian Ham- yum


Pan Tomate an excellent rendition


Tomato Salad- Feo de Tudelo, sweet as candy


The chef explaining one of the dishes to us


Our last dish at Lolita -suggested by the waiter-this was so different and very delicious-
These were like teeny tiny delicate sweet lima beans with avocado and many different herbs, topped with quail eggs.
I have never had or seen beans like these before...delicious and intriguing dish.

So next we moved onto Frank's choice for entertainment for the evening, a Flamenco show!
Now we know Flamenco is more of a Madrid/Seville thing, but we weren't going there, so we did the next best thing and went to:


The show was at this Spanish Village kind of place on Montjuic called Poble Espagnol



Tapas were served (of course) before the show, and we kind of expected them to be nothing special, but wow, we were blown away!

well, OK the Pan Tomate was nothing special...


This charcuterie plate was amazing-Ham was very full-flavored, 3 kinds of sausage-delish!
There was also a plate of cheese which was rather boring to photograph...but delicious


These Potatas Bravas were sooo good! Spicy and rich and wonderful!


Sauteed Mushrooms that were so much more delicious than they look- rich and firm, yummy.


When they first brought this we couldn't decide if it was fried potato or zucchini,
then we tasted it and were surprised to find it was some of the best calamari we had all trip!
So tender and light and not at all greasy!


After working our way through most of a bottle of White Rioja we were feeling happy, and ready for Flamenco!

The Flamenco was equally wonderful and seemed very authentic and heartfelt to us.





I love this picture because it shows how fast the dancers were moving.


At the end, everyone was on stage and dancing and singing together.

I would recommend this show to anyone!
It blows me away that we did all this in just one day- more to come.

Lolita Taperia
Tamarit, 104 · local 2-4
08015 · Barcelona
Tel.: 93 424 52 31

El Tablao de Carmen
Avda. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13
Poble Espanyol de Montjuïc - 08038 - Barcelona
Tel. +34 933256895 - Fax. +34 934254616
info@tablaodecarmen.com

I keep going back to the many great posts from Barcelona this year. It's inspired me to relive and add a few photos from my trip last year in April. [Yes, I am a bad LTHer ]

Quimet i Quimet

Of course I had the salmon and honey montadito, as well as the dried beef with balsamic reduction, one with mussels and caviar and another with a sweet, spreadable cheese and a chestnut on top.








I believe this one is bonito with tapenade?


I asked the server about bottarga and he plated a huge portion. I don't know if he was making fun of us or not, but this thick slab still seems like a ridiculous portion size. Does anyone know if this is typical? I expected it to be grated and paired with other ingredients on a montadito. The flavor was so strong on its own that I ended up wrapping most of it in a napkin and bringing it back to Chicago with me and served shaved over pasta.



Since we had gotten there close to closing time, we were a bit rushed in finishing up our cheese. I think the owner sensed this and pulled out a jar of Advokaat from behind the counter and graciously offered us each a spoonful. It was my first experience with the boozy egg yolk "liqueur," which was creamy and thick like a custard. Later back home I ordered some online for a party and the quality was nothing like the exemplary version tasted here.





Even though my apartment rental was only blocks away, this little place evaded a return visit due to their odd (for me) open hours. I will most definitely return next time I'm in Barcelona, which ought to be in the next year or maybe two, if I can hold out that long