Normandy tips, etc.

I'm currently in Caen in Lower Normandy (Basse-Normandie) and enjoying it immensely. Just for general information, I thought I'd post a couple of suggestions for anyone passing through this area.

In Caen:

A Table
43 rue Saint Sauveur
Tel : 02 31 86 57 75 -

Excellent local cuisine, fixed price (menu) dining, located in a charming area. The staff is friendly, but the place does fill up quickly, especially on weekends (closed Sunday and Monday).

Le Bouchon du Vaugueux
12, Rue du Graindorge, 14000 Caen
Tel : 02 31 44 26 26

Elegant, sophisticated restaurant in the old quarter of town (near the castle). It's also quite small, so it's worth making a reservation.

Another item to note: the office of the Mayor in Caen, in connection with the Office of Tourism occasionally offers "behind the scenes" tours of local culinary spots as part of their "Decouvrir ma ville" (Discover my city) events. For example, this month we have a culinary theme for the entire month, and you can visit a chocolate-maker or a butcher shop, or participate in a demonstration at a restaurant.

The local creperies all offer a choice of crepes or galettes (galette sarrasin), and I haven't run across a bad one yet.

In Bayeux, I can recommend a place conveniently named

Le Petit Bistrot
2 rue Bienvenu
Bayeux

It's a tiny place, run by a young couple who have introduced very imaginative cooking into a town not known for it.

I'd also like to suggest, having consumed quite a bit of cider in the last three months, that you order cidre as often as you can while you're in the region, and that you order pear cider (poire) whenever it's available. It's a beverage that hasn't really earned the reputation it deserves and the varities here are extraordinary. But the lack of respect for cidre also means that restaurants will frequently list it on the menu simply as "cidre" without any indication of its origins, so that if you enjoy it, you will be unable to track down another bottle from the same place. But don't be shy about asking what you've been drinking! Also, at the weekly markets, you can frequently find makers of cidre and cheese selling their own products. Some sellers present the cidre they offer as if it were from their farm when in fact it's from their neighbor's farm -- not a real problem, unless you have questions. If you really want information, look for the stands with cases of cidre, not just a few bottles.

Final note: if anybody has specific questions about the cuisine of Normandy or would like me to find anything out while I'm here, just ask!