Chicago -> Memphis -> Oxford, Mississippi (-> Hatti

Chicago -> Memphis -> Oxford, Mississippi (-> Hattiesburg)
Hi,

I plan to head south next week for the Southern Foodways Conference.

I'll be driving down with no real agenda except to get from A-to-B. I also have a sister who lives in Hattiesburg, Mississippi, so whatever I don't do this time, I will do the next.

I am interested in Southern fare: BBQ, grits, greens and everything in between.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Regards,

Cathy, you won't have a hard time finding grits and greens in Mississippi, though I have no specific recos. I would remind you to try, if you have the time, to stop by the 17th St. Bar & Grill in Murphysboro, IL (25 mins off I57, adjacent to Carbondale (the town with SIU), and a lovely little city). Worth the detour, I'd say.

While traveling to N.O. in April, I wanted to try the best BBQ in Memphis. I decided on the famous Interstate BBQ house on S. 3rd, I believe. Great pulled pork sandwich and my wife loved her pork ribs. Very interesting place with a lot of atmosphere. Other contenders (based on my limited research) included Corky's at 5259 S Popular Avenue and Central BBQ on Central btw Cooper and East Parkway. Hope this helps.

Hi,

I was in Memphis just last night. I was rather influenced by Holly Moore to consider Rendezvous, which he considers the best dry rub ribs he has ever tried. Note his last exposure to these ribs was about 12 years ago. I shared half a pulled pork sandwich just 20 miles south of Memphis, to save room for the Rendezvous's ribs. I was quite disappointed to learn they are closed Sunday and Monday. However, the TN tourist lady said Renezvous ribs were really the ones to go for. So I will just have to plan better next trip through!

What I do recall from Holly is his dislike of Corky's as their reputation and food being way overblown. Holly is in Memphis this week, so you may want to follow his website to see his revised opinions of BBQ and food in Memphis.

We ate together a couple of time this weekend, he is very good at getting people to open up and provide suggestions on where to go. A talent a lot of us share, it's just fun watching someone else on the prowl.

Rendezvous Charles Vergos
52 South 2nd Street
Memphis, TN 38103
901-523-2746

I know it's too late to help Cathy2, but here's a short summary of my recent Memphis trip, with a longer report (with photos) linked to below. Perhaps it will be of use to someone else in the future.

Cozy Corner. Cool to see the aquarium tank up front. Ordered the Cornish hen (with mild sauce) and rib tips (with hot sauce). White meat on the hen was on the verge of dryness, but still had pretty good flavor that wasn't overwhelmed by the agreeable sauce. (The dark meat was hopelessly dry.) The rib tips seemed rather average to me. The meat was tender, but not really succulent, and lacked smokiness. Overall, it seemed like a pretty good place, though nothing I had there knocked my socks off.

Payne's. The pitmaster and owner were friendly and funny. I liked seeing the pit in the serving area. (Hidden pits are usually a bad sign.) Got the rib sandwich and chopped pork sandwich. The ribs were pretty good, in terms of texture. And I liked the mild sauce with them. But they didn't have the flavor intensity of great ribs. (I ate the ribs straight, rather than as a sandwich.) The pork sandwich, however, was excellent. Good texture to the pork. The hot sauce wasn't so strong that it overpowered the pork. And the combination of pork, sauce, and mustard-yellow slaw was fantastic--the only such combo I had on the trip where I felt it worked perfectly. I'd love to go back.

Germantown Commissary. Yuppie feel to this place. Portland food-lover Nick (ExtraMSG) wasn't impressed with their ribs in his recent trip through Memphis, but liked their sandwich; so pulled pork sandwich is what I ordered. The pork had good texture, but little flavor. The sauce tasted okay, but wasn't very distinctive. Their slaw didn't seem to add anything to the mix, so I scraped it off. The toasted bun was above average. A pretty good sandwich. But it tasted something like what I'd expect from a mid-priced chain--not bad, but really lacking character.

Central BBQ. I'd heard really good things about their ribs, so I ordered a dry half slab (along with some of the house-made chips). Focusing on meat alone, this was the best bit of barbecue I had on the trip, up to that point. (Payne's sandwich was great. But it was more about the combination of flavors and textures than the brilliance of the pork.) I thought the dry rub was a little too heavy and the smoke was way too light. But, still, these were very tasty ribs. I came back a couple of days later and tried the wet ribs. I preferred the wet to the dry, simply because the tasty sauce gave the ribs a flavor boost that they needed, due to their lack of smokiness. (The chips were, as I'd been told, excellent.)

Corky's. I'd been warned here and elsewhere to steer clear of this tourist trap. But it was one of very few places open on New Year's Day. Got a combo of dry ribs and pulled pork. The ribs were abysmal--very possibly the worst ribs I've had in years. The meat was tough, incredibly dry, and flavorless. The powdery "rub" heaped on top of the slab after cooking tasted like synthetic barbecue Lik-m-aid. The pulled pork was at least edible, though it didn't distinguish itself in terms of flavor or smokiness. Our meal at Corky's was the most expensive of the trip. But they had, by far, the worst food and service of all the places to which we went.

Blues City Cafe. I don't remember reading anything about this place, positive or negative. Given the location and the look, my hopes weren't high. But, again, it was one of few places open on New Year's Day. Ordered a half slab of wet ribs. The meat, low on flavor and smoke, was just shy of being unacceptably tough. The overly sweet sauce was way too much for the meat. Not truly bad ribs (ala Corky's), but not at all good, either.

Overall, I found the average quality of Memphis barbecue to be good, given its style and aims. And there were some moments of greatness with Payne's sandwich and Central BBQ's ribs. Beautiful city, friendly people, and good barbecue. What more can you ask for?

For more details and photos, see the following link:
http://www.dallasfood.org/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=15

Scott

Scott,

This information may have been too late for the last trip, it will fit in nicely for my next! Is there some reason you did not go to the Rendezvous ... or is it just not mentioned yet? Holly Moore's antennas were really up to the sky over this place.

It's funny, I was cleaning out my wallet today. There is a BBQ place just south of Memphis I wanted to report on and lost the menu. I found the receipt just today with the name and address, so I can finally put those pictures and my memories to use!

Keep adding to this thread whenever information pops up. I will be going in that direction several times this year.

Regards,

In the fuller report he says they were closed and went to the Blues City instead. However, when I was doing research for my Memphis trip (only one day, see KC thread or links in Scott's report), people pretty thoroughly panned Rendezvous. If I remember right (I may not), the main complaint was that the ribs weren't BBQ'd so much as grilled. Something like that.

In his trip, Holly went to Corky's and Rendezvous. He said he liked Corky's, but thought Rendezvous was better. Given how bad I thought Corky's ribs were, and Scott's concurrence, that's not much of a recommendation.

Cathy2,

ExtraMSG pretty much sums up why I didn't end up going to Rendezvous. Factor One: The local Chowhounds seemed to have uniformly negative assessments of the place. While that didn't lead me to rule it out, it did push it farther down the priority list. Factor Two: They were closed on two days in my three day weekend.

I'd still be willing to try it sometime. But my expectations would be tempered.

Scott

Another trip to Memphis. A full report with photos can be found at the link below, but here's a rough sketch:

(1) Craig's Bar-B-Q, DeValls Bluff, AR. Small joint. Divided dining room and separate entrances, harkening back to the bad ole days. Ordered ribs. Meat was ultra-tender, but not mushy. Bark was a bit degraded from storage and reheating. Mild, but detectable, smoke flavor. Good ribs. Also got an excellent chocolate pie from the "Pie Shop" across the street. Terrific crust, very good filling, and a dense, not-too-sweet meringue.

(2) Bar-B-Q Shop, Memphis, TN (on Madison). After multiple recommendations, I was eager to try this one. Got a half slab of dry ribs and a pulled pork sandwich. The ribs were very tender (parboiled?), but not to a major fault. Little smokiness, but the pleasant dry rub gave them a flavor boost. Pretty good ribs, but I didn't think they were exceptional. The sandwich (pictured below) made a bigger impression. The pork wasn't stellar, but the Texas toast was a nice twist. And the slaw--crisp, fresh-tasting, and with a better rounded flavor than most--really elevated it. The mildly mustard-based sauce wasn't laid on too thick. A fine sandwich.

(3) Payne's, Memphis, TN (on Lamar). I went here on the prior trip and the sandwich knocked me off me feet and flat on my back. Worried that I might be romanticizing the memory, I decided to go back, so I'd have a better basis for comparison with the other sandwiches I was having on this trip. Once again, off my feet, on my back. Toasted bun, great pork loaded with crispy browned bits, an excellent sauce, and that sweet neon yellow slaw. I could eat one of these every day. Picked up a fried pie (apple), too. Light, very flaky crust. Sweet filling, but lower in quantity, making for a good balance between pastry and apple filling.

(4) A&R Bar-B-Que, Memphis, TN (on Elvis Presley). This was another one that had been recommended by some knowledgeable locals, particularly for the sandwich and fried pies. The chopped pork was a saucy, sloppy mess, but was very tasty. Pretty good pork flavor, with a fair amount of browned bits. The slaw was overwhelmed by the sauce, offering more texture and temperature contrast. It was oversauced; but, since the sauce tasted pretty good, that wasn't a major problem. In all, a very good sandwich (though very different in style from, say, Bar-B-Q Shop's). They were out of fried pies, the first day I went, so I had to make a repeat visit. The fried pie (apple) was outstanding. The sugar-dusted pastry was crisp, greaseless, and not a bit soggy. Filling was abundant, but not overly sweet. I only wish I could have bought it straight out of the deep frier and with a scoop of good vanilla ice cream on top.

(5) Charlie Vergos' Rendezvous, Memphis, TN (on 2nd St.). Rendezvous draws plenty of red flags from knowledgeable locals. And, after getting burned at Corky's (which I was warned against) on my last trip, I was fearful going in. I was worried about the half slab of dried ribs I ordered, but needn't have been. They were actually quite good. Firm in texture, but not tough or dry. Little smokiness, but a pretty tasty dry rub. This was nowhere near the disaster I was expecting. I may have gotten lucky. The sandwich was also pretty good. Decent pork. A safely pleasant sauce. The slaw (served on the side) didn't add anything, I didn't think. In the balance, it was a pretty good sandwich.

(6) Jim Neely's Interstate Bar-B-Q, Memphis, TN (on S. 3rd St.). Here's another one the locals warn against. Luck may have favored me at Rendezvous, but she failed me at Interstate. The half slab of ribs was atrocious--mushy in texture, greasy, and with a gummy exterior coated in a thick, cloying, tomatoey sauce reminiscent of jarred spaghetti sauce. Ugh. The sandwich wasn't much better. The pork was bland and inoffensive. But the slaw, placed under the sandwich, was almost impossible to taste because of the pint of that sorry, gloppy sauce that was drenching the whole affair. Won't be back.

(7) Central BBQ, Memphis, TN (on Central). I didn't want to close the trip with such a poor experience, so I headed over to Central BBQ, where I got some excellent ribs on my prior trip. Got a full slab of wet ones, plus some barbecue potato chips. Though the ribs weren't quite as good this time (a bit too tender and with some burnt sugar spots in places), they were still easily the best of the trip.

Scott

(The full report is here:
http://www.dallasfood.org/modules.php?n ... cle&sid=35 .)

Hi,

My sister graduated from Southern Mississippi in December. This might have been my last visit Hattiesburg, MS, though who knows where life will lead.

Before I left, I put high on my list a stop to Leatha's BBQ. Unfortunately, I never made it. Everything I ever read sounded very, very good. Hopefully someone will make it there and advise.

Leatha's BBQ
6374 U S Highway 98, Hattiesburg, MS
(601) 271-6003

I did make a visit to the donut shop chain I wished was here: Shipley's.


December-11-2010-002-box by cal222, on Flickr

I like the nice touch of tissue paper separating donuts from napkins:


December-11-2010-005-napkin by cal222, on Flickr

These donuts cost just over $7 a dozen. The nuts on the chocolate do-nut are walnuts, the jelly donuts were very generously filled, though a real jelly instead of a fruity gelatin would be better.


December-11-2010-007open by cal222, on Flickr

After my first visit to Shipley's years ago, I commented about them on Chowhound's Southern forum. A few from diverse geographical locations, all thought they knew Mr. Shipley. Some had the impression their Shipley was the only one, apparently unaware there were others. A little looking around found Shipley is based in Texas.

Shipley Do-Nuts
2011 Hardy St, Hattiesburg, MS
(601) 545-1891

On the drive back to Chicago, we encountered a number of small trucks selling freshly harvested sweet potatoes. We stopped at one to learn a bushel would cost $12. Not being heavy sweet potato eaters, we settled on a 10-pound bag for $4.

We also saw a number of modest shops offering shucked beans. I stopped to check these out, only to find a large room ringed with large white freezers. They were selling a number of varieties of beans shucked and frozen. Most were available in bushel quantities, way beyond my needs. They had one freezer of a limited variety of small five-pound bags. I wasn't prepared to take a large quantity of frozen foods. I purchased one bag of speckled beans, because only one bag fit in my small cooler. If the ambient temperatures were not 65, but 32 or less, I would have bought more.

I was not too happy about having to miss Leatha's. I was determined to have BBQ in Memphis. The promised free wi-fi didn't work at my motel. I called a friend to help prioritize where to eat in Memphis. Weather reports indicated a pending winter storm in Chicago beginning at 3:00 am. If we stayed in Memphis, we would likely be there longer than we wanted. It also meant only one stop and it better be good, it was suggested to go to Payne's.

My sister reached Memphis before we did, she went to the Elvis Presley Boulevard location to find it closed. Before sending her to Lamar Avenue, I called to learn it was open until 6 pm on Saturday night. My GPS estimated our arrival at 5:30 pm, we asked her to linger to save us a seat.

Our worries about seating was a non-issue, because my family was the only customer. A few pick ups came and went, but no other diners. It did allow us to move a space heater closer to our table without stealing heat from anyone else.

My Dad and I nearly got into an argument when he ordered a hot dog instead of BBQ. It seemed like a wasted effort to make Herculean efforts to reach a BBQ temple, only to order a hot dog. Once it arrived, I was glad because it was dressed like all other Payne's BBQ with their signature coleslaw and sauce.


December-11-2010-010-hot dogs by cal222, on Flickr

Wanting to try most of their rather small menu, we ordered a chopped pork sandwich and a pulled porked sandwich:


December-11-2010-007-chopped pork by cal222, on Flickr


December-11-2010-002-Pulled Pork by cal222, on Flickr

Both pork textures had their advantages, the chopped integrated their sauce and coleslaw better. The pulled pork allowed a chewier texture, check the smoke ring and eat some strands of meat without sauce. It was great to try to both ways.

On the menu was something I had yet to try anywhere: smoked bologna sandwich. My Mom and I are still debating a little detail: whether they deep fat fried this bologna or was it sliced and grilled. From talking to someone who has also been there and tried it, the consensus is on deep fat fried.


December-11-2010-004-smoked bologna by cal222, on Flickr

There was an older woman behind the counter who owned the Lamar Avenue location. She was operating it as tribute to her late husband. I inquired about the Elvis Presley Boulevard location to learn it was her sister-in-law's operation. She claimed both locations did not serve the same menu or recipes. She was not sure whether or not the Elvis Presley location was really in operation. The last she heard, they were open on weekends only. Wherever the truth may be, if you are heading toward Elvis Presley location, phone first to avoid disappointment.

Hours after we left Memphis, I had a slap the forehead moment: I forgot to order a fry pie at Payne's. I learned from my sister she had attempted to order it to learn it was no longer offered.

Payne's Bar-B-Que
1762 Lamar Avenue, Memphis, TN
(901) 272-1523

Payne's Bar-B-Que
1393 Elvis Presley Blvd., Memphis, TN
(901) 942-7433

We almost stayed downstate at a relative, but weather reports on WBBM convinced us to soldier on. We arrived home at 2:59 am. When we awoke six hours later, the winds were howling and it was snowing. If we had stopped over anywhere, we would have not made it home for a few days.

Regards,

So...was it worth the effort to get there?
The pulled pork looks tasty, but the others
are a bit runny/gloppy for my taste.

Hi,

I was pleased to read where Southern Foodway's John T. Edge has Payne's as one of his favorite BBQ destinations.

This is a place where the dressings of BBQ sauce and mustardy-vinegary coleslaw really meld well with the BBQ. I haven't really done a Memphis BBQ tour since I became more enlightened on what is good BBQ. I rememeber my earlier visits, I wasn't all that charmed. Not sure how I would react today to the same BBQ presented. However, Payne's would have been a revelation back then as it was during this visit.

I can't wait to eat there again.

Regards,

Just visited Hawkins BBQ in West Memphis-genuine deal with the friendliest folks around. Nice smoke and generous with the sauce. Full slab was finished in no time-plenty of meat pink and juicy throughout. The also invented BBQ egg rolls-bbq with slaw and heat deep fried. Really good-have been opened for about 4 months. People rave about the breakfasts-grits, eggs, bbq etc. A couple of miles off of 57 at the Missouri Street exit toward Broadway. 510 N. Missouri West Memphis Ar.

Scott--DFW wrote:(7) Central BBQ, Memphis, TN (on Central). I didn't want to close the trip with such a poor experience, so I headed over to Central BBQ, where I got some excellent ribs on my prior trip. Got a full slab of wet ones, plus some barbecue potato chips. Though the ribs weren't quite as good this time (a bit too tender and with some burnt sugar spots in places), they were still easily the best of the trip.

I was in Memphis last October, and I second every good thing that has been said about Central BBQ. Excellent wet ribs, ours were cooked just right, terrific tasty sauce -- if I had written closer to the time I was there, I could be more specific -- but this was a real highlight of a weekend spent eating. And a very pleasant patio to eat on.

Soul Fish Cafe, also in the Cooper Young neighborhood, served the best catfish I have ever eaten, although I have never been a big catfish fan -- but I would be if they were all this good. Great crisp coating, neither too much nor too little, fried just right, not overcooked, good catfish taste without the sometimes muddy flavor of catfish that I don't like. The sides were also excellent. The hush puppies were especially fabulous, crisp on the outside, corn on the inside, a bit of jalapeno, dense but not too dense, very tasty. Probably the best hush puppies I have ever eaten, not that I am an expert. Though the menu on the website doesn't list it, I am sure we had baskets of catfish which came with a choice of several sides. The Cajun cabbage (cooked) was a real standout, very tasty and unlike anything I had had before. This place is worth going out of your way for. http://www.soulfishcafe.com/ 862 South Cooper, Memphis, TN 38104

We finished the weekend at Gus's Fried Chicken, which I wanted to like more than I actually did. It was very good -- I was hoping for transcendent -- maybe I had just experienced as much southern food as I could handle, maybe my expectations were just too high, maybe I had sunstroke from waiting outside for too long (don't arrive at 1pm on Sunday! everyone comes after church!) -- I would definitely try it again, and let me say, I really liked it, I just wanted to have my socks blown off, and they weren't. I can't put my finger on what was missing -- I am going to assume I had just eaten as much as I could appreciate in a three day period. The fried pickles were excellent though.