Finally found it. Had to dig through some accumulated, uh, stuff, but if you have a chance, get thee to U Matouše (At [the sign of] Matthew's [house]). This is a real neighborhood place that most tourists will never find, wonderful 'real' Czech food, very reasonable prices. Tourist-friendly it turned out to be, though more from the novelty of having tourists than anything else. The small restaurant had a bar at one end and perhaps a dozen tables set up at the other end of the room. We hung our coats on pegs and seated ourselves. When the waitress came over and welcomed us in Czech, our English-language "hello" brought an enthusiastic Czech-flavored echo (simultaneously welcoming and yet conveying clear panic at the thought of English-speaking guests). She spoke no English. The bartender's English vocabulary consisted of approximately ten words (of which beef and pork were his proudest accomplishments), but he stuck with us and the linguistic impasse didn't matter: the meal was marvelous.
Preslova 17 (in Mala Strana)
Tel. 420 257 318 864. Open 11-11
(And, if your Czech is good enough, they even have a
website! It has the complete menu--click on the link to
jídelní lístek (which opens as a Microsoft Word document)--as well as a little map as well as a gallery of photos.)
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)