We were in downtown St. Paul for a wedding this past weekend, and stumbled on a couple of nice places (and a couple of cheesy disappointments). I would highly recommend the handful of good ones (and advise avoiding the lousy one):
I was a big fan of
Barrio Tequila Bar in the Lowertown neighborhood. We got a late start, so by the time we got there (around 2pm) we were too late for the lunch menu and too early for the dinner menu - they only had a small plates bar menu available instead, which was fine by us.
We started with two drinks from their margarita menu, a "Mama Cita" (Tequila, Hibiscus punch, splash of Cava) and a "Macho Camacho" (Blood Orange, Ancho, 1800 Black, splash of Cava). Both were a bit too thick for my tastes, the Mama Cita sweeter than I like, and the Macho Camacho a bit too sour. Didn't really care for either. Our second round was much for successful: "The Trinity" (Gran Centenario Plata Tequila, Cointreau, Lime Juice) and "The Good The Bad And The Ugly" (Tequila with Tamarind Cinnamon Cola). The Trinity was a classic margarita, and a really nice one at that...smooth, mellow, well balanced. The Good The Bad And The Ugly was a light, refreshing drink that reminded me of a somewhat fizzy horchata with a bit of a boozy kick (in a good way). None of the drinks tasted like they were made with commercial bottled mixes, which was cool.
For lunch, we started with queso fundido with chorizo. The cheese itself was smooth and not too stringy...it seemed to be mostly queso Chihuahua, but tasted like it may have had a bit of goat cheese mixed it. It had some decent chunks of poblano chiles in it, but in hindsight paying $2 extra for chorizo wasn't worth the 5-6 sad little chunks we got (it was good chorizo though). It came with some really nice, warm flour tortillas...they certainly weren't made in-house, but were good quality, like El Milagro brand or something along those lines.
After that, we went for a couple tacos each. I got a grilled skirt steak and a pork carnitas, my wife got a grilled skirt steak and a spiced shrimp. The grilled skirt steak taco came topped with roasted poblano rajas (which was a new term to me...apparently it means "roasted & peeled strips of chile, sautéed with onions, herbs and seasonings"...sounds about right), in a freshly-fried crispy flour tortilla shell. The steak was tender, well seasoned, with a nice amount of pink on the inside & a proper sear on the outside. The carnitas taco came topped with a serrano salsa, in a double layer of corn tortillas (again, definitely not made in-house, but good quality). The pork wasn't all that memorable but not bad, and the salsa had a slight kick. The shrimp taco was excellent: big pile of shrimp chunks topped with "grilled tomato mint salsa", on a double layer of corn tortillas. The shrimp was meaty & tender, not dried out at all, with a nice grilled taste, and the salsa looked & tasted more like a fresh pico de gallo (with a slightly minty, slightly roasted taste).
In addition to the margarita menu, they have 100+ tequilas on the menu, ranging from el-cheapo rotgut to crazy fancy (Patrón Burdeos, $95/shot). The decor was "edgy" and "hip" - think Rockit, only red. Our four drinks, queso & four tacos ran us $80 (including tax & tip). Not cheap, but considering the quality of the food & drinks, I wasn't complaining. I see now that the chef/owner, Tim McKee, won the 2009 James Beard award in the Best Chef: Midwest category. He won for his restaurant
La Belle Vie, so I'm guessing his taco-menu-designing prowess wasn't a contributing factor, just an interesting tidbit.
After lunch we popped next door to
The Bulldog, which is a laid-back, beer-focused bar (with food, which we didn't try). They had a couple dozen beers on tap, predominantly microbrews & imports. I had a Delerium Tremens, my wife had a Brugse Zot (both were $5ish/pint), and we killed some time playing shuffleboard before we had to head back & change for the wedding. Quite a few folks at this bar were enjoying beer flights ($7-11 for five 5-6oz portions)...if we'd had more time there, I would've enjoyed sampling some flights.
The night before, we walked over to
Patrick McGovern's Pub after seeing "Fine Irish food and spirits" stenciled on the door. Mistake. The menu consisted of nachos, chicken strips, sliders, wings, etc. We ended up splitting an order of nachos with chili & jalapeños after seeing that they were made with "fresh tortilla chips". What we got was a big pile of Tostitos topped with canned chili, diced veggies & Velveeta that had been broiled just short of becoming pure carbon, served with a side of Pace mild salsa. This place was Irish the way
Timothy O'Toole's or
Finn McCool's are Irish.
Fortunately, it started to rain so we grabbed a cab back to our hotel, and popped into the bar at the
St. Paul Grill for some perfect martinis & manhattans, mixed by two very personable bartenders (one of whom was a big Toby Maloney fan, and spoke highly of his visits to
Bradstreet Crafthouse, mentioned briefly by Toby
in this thread).
After the martinis, we walked over to
Mickey's Diner, which was as classic & perfect a diner as I've ever seen: streamlined aluminum dining car with a counter stretching its entire length, stools as the only seating option, and malts to write home about. We had a late night, tipsy breakfast there at 3am...two eggs sunny side up, two slices of toast (thick, soft, definitely not grocery store bread), thick-cut bacon, and hash browns cooked just right, with a deep brown, crispy crust. I had half a mind to rent a truck & tow that place back to Chicago...there's a parking lot across from my building that would benefit greatly from having a proper diner secretly deposited there in the middle of the night.
All in all, we were lucky to stumble onto a few places that were pretty excellent. I'd love to have them back here at home, but I have a feeling that downtown St. Paul's weekend ghost town vibe is the reason they all seemed so laid back & comfortable...if they were here, they'd likely be mobbed with folks & much less fun. Oh well, maybe I'll find myself back up there sometime, and will at least know where to go.
Barrio Tequila Bar235 6th St E
St Paul, MN 55101
(651) 222-3250
Also has a Minneapolis locationThe Bulldog237 6th St E
St Paul, MN 55101
(651) 221-0750
Also has two Minneapolis locationsSt. Paul Grill350 Market St
St Paul, MN 55102-1484
(651) 224-7455
In The Saint Paul HotelMickey's Diner36 7th St W
St Paul, MN 55102
(651) 222-5633
Patrick McGovern's Pub225 7th St W
St Paul, MN 55102
(651) 224-5821