Los Angeles: The Hungry Cat [Pics]

The Hungry Cat was one of the most widely anticipated new offerings on the Los Angeles dining landscape this year, as it was brought about by Suzanne Goin, the critically-acclaimed Executive Chef of both Lucques and A.O.C., and her husband, David Lentz.

As I have sung the praises of both Lucques and A.O.C. before, I was quite anxious to try the newest member of this restaurant family. And, although I arrived in Los Angeles a bit haggard, my brother and I decided to keep that night's booking at THC for a light, late meal.



the hungry cat


oysters on the half shell feat. fanny bay, miyagi, and malpeque


chincoteague island oyster chowder - one of two servings


pan-roasted halibut with morels, green garlic, and grits


witness my "drunken master" style

Not pictured: market lettuce salad with avocado, pecorino and egg

The Hungry Cat offers a tightly-focused list of specialty cocktails, beer, and wine. My brother and I elected to try the luke's lemonade and the greyhound proper, respectively. These were very well-built cocktails and we soon followed up with another round.

There were three types of oysters on the half shell available at the time of our visit, and we elected to try four oysters of each type. While all of the oysters were impeccably fresh and clean, the miyagi oysters from WA were our clear favourite; they had the most pleasingly firm texture. At any rate, we left the accompanying vinegar dip and cocktail sauce untouched.

The chincoteague island oyster chowder was without a doubt the very best chowder that I have ever had. In addition to the namesake oysters, the chowder contained chopped field greens, cubes of potato, back bacon, and the season’s first corn. The broth had a peppery curry undertone and a buttery soft mouthfeel.

The market lettuce salad was quite fine as salads go, and the avocado and egg capably carried the evening’s rich theme.

The halibut was listed on the menu as being the cheek meat of the fish, but we were told that filets were being substituted on this evening. At first, my brother was a bit skeptical of the grits, but he quickly changed his tune when he realized how flavourful and fresh-tasting they were. As someone who spent a good bit of time eating/pondering grits in the South, I must say that these were very fine grits; they had a nicely coarse grind and plenty of fresh, earthy corn flavour. This dish, too, was a real stunner.

NB The perspective in the above pictures may seem a bit skewed, but that is likely due to the fact that we were seated at the "Chef's Table." Truth be told, this seemed more like a low-lying zinc countertop/passthrough, but it commanded a good view of the kitchen and allowed for great interaction with the Chef and his team.

Regards,
Erik M.

The Hungry Cat
1535 N. Vine St.
Hollywood, CA
323.462.2155

The Hungry Cat Photo Gallery from Chowhound poster, Perceptor.

E.M.

Oysters and more oysters. My kind of place. Thanks for the report, Erik.

Erik M. wrote:
pan-roasted halibut with morels, green garlic, and grits

Just curious, fresh morels or rehydrated (would be chewier)?

PS: Any chance you'll make an index of your LA posts (maybe in useful stuff)... or stick some unique keyword in all of them

sazerac wrote:Just curious, fresh morels or rehydrated (would be chewier)?

It was May of last year, and while I cannot be certain, I believe that they were fresh Morels.

sazerac wrote:Any chance you'll make an index of your LA posts (maybe in useful stuff)... or stick some unique keyword in all of them

I haven't had the motivation to write one additional (new) LA post, let alone index/groom the ones that I've got.

At any rate, my mind is on other things right now.

Like, translating the multi-page (Plano, TX) Thai restaurant menu which Scott--DFW sent me, last night.

E.M.

That's a very interesting and well-chosen wine list, especially with the lead-off picpoul. (That makes, in a sense, *two* muscadets on the list! :^)

But I must say I would have missed not having any sauvignon blanc--maybe a Marlborough?--available.

Geo

Went to the Hungry Cat on Saturday night. We really enjoyed the oysters and fresh shrimp - they were sweet, maybe cooked in sugared water? Salads were fresh and tasty, especially the crab salad. Their custom made vodka infusions make interesting drinks, but not something you can easily drink down. We had one that tasted like a spa smells (chamomile? lavender? tea?).

I wasn't thrilled with my main course - the fish was fine but everything it was on was just a gummy mess (echoed by others about their different entrees). The french fries were good (though why does every restaurant in LA think that if you order fries for the table they should be an appetizer and not an accompaniment to the mains?).

Desserts were just OK, though others disagreed. Service was fine, didn't really notice the decor.