I returned from Germany yesterday - what an amazing trip! I think I will start a separate thread on German wine country - particularly the Rhein and Mosel valleys for anyone interested. This was a well planned trip and I can highly recommend the wineries we toured and the places we stayed.
Anyway, I wound up having a very a-typical Assmannshausen supper. We arrived at the August Kesseler winery around 4 p.m. and were greeted by Mrs. Kesseler. Her husband was promoting his wines in Miami, FL. She was a warm and gracious host, however, her English is limited. Their winemaker, Max, is fluent, so he gave us the tour of the cellars which date from the 1700's. We came up from the cellars through a thick, carved wooden door into a very modern, white-walled tasting room. On the walls hung artwork done by a young Polish man that lives with them. Two large dark wood tables had been pushed together for us and set beautifully. Candles were lit everywhere and on the stereo - Frank Sinatra! (Apparently, Mr. Kesseler is a fan.) Over the course of the dinner we tasted about 10 wines, both pinot noirs and rieslings. The meal began with a soup ( as most meals we had did,) this one a clear broth with 3 small dumplings. The entree was Sauerbraten, served with red cabbage and 2 large potato dumplings. I do not know if this is typically served in Assmannhausen, or if it is just a specialty of Mrs. Kesseler. Unfortunately, she was not told ahead of time of my vegetarian status. When she found out, the Sauerbraten was whisked away and she returned in about 5 min. with one of the most lovely and flavorful Caprese salads I've ever had. Ripe plum tomatoes, alternating with a creamy fresh mozzarella, torn fresh basil, lots of freshly ground pepper - all drizzled with a wonderfully aromatic and fruity extra-virgin olive oil. This was served with a warm and crusty hard roll. I was stunned and very grateful as I hate to make my dining companions uncomfortable by not eating. As I was finishing my salad, and fully satisfied, out comes a basket of a different type of warm, sliced bread and a small plate with a whole, square, fresh cheese on it! I'm not sure what it was, but it was very young and had a rind similar to a brie but much thinner. The cheese itself was creamy and mild. This I sliced and shared with the whole group ( there were 16 of us.) It was perfect with the last of the reserve pinot noir. From there we went on to taste the Rieslings and finished with some fantastic Auslese. No dessert at this stop, but it really wasn't necessary with the fruity Auslese finish. So, while my meal was not typical of the region, the hospitality certainly was.