www.morimotorestaurant.com
723 Chestnut, Philadelphia PA
215-413-9070
After two nights at a conference where I'd had 'eh' sushi (Swanky Bubbles -- too much avacado, spicy sauce, etc., it should be all about the fish and rice -- and Continental Club, more spicy tuna rolls), one of my co-workers said she was taking a client to Budokan, which has a good rep, but I could skip. I called her a while later to find out Budokan was full up, they were on their way to Morimoto, and did I want to join them. HELL YES. This Iron Chef junkie was not going to miss out.
(Unfortunately, Himself was not in residence, working on opening the NYC outlet)
We couldn't get a table for 4, so we were seated at the sushi bar, and I was very happy to be there, to see the artistry going on. I saw Shuji-san put together a platter of nigiri and rolls that could only be called a fishgasm, and create a meal for the two businessmen to my right, who ordered the high-end omakase with some amazing looking dishes (minced duck yakitori, chu-toro topped with things I can't even identify, langoustines, etc. etc.).
On the company budget, I couldn't do the omakase, but I still ate like a Daimyo. We shared an appetizer of
goma ae, which was white asparagus instead of the usual spinach. Very tasty, a lighter than normal sesame sauce which let the asparagus shine.
Just three pieces of nigiri to take the edge off the hunger: sima aji (striped jack), sake (salmon), and saba (mackerel, one of my perennial faves). The salmon was perfect, down-like softness; the saba had the absolute essence that is ocean; the sima aji was an unusual fish, about halfway between the salmon and mackerel in strength of flavor, and a firm chew reminiscent of squid. Fantastic soy (house-blended according to the server).
One of our foursome ordered a big platter of sushi, two ordered the strip steak (I had a taste, outstanding, but hey: I don't order waffles at Uno's, you shouldn't order a steak at a sushi place, at least not with the other options available).
For an entree, I had the crispy baby barramundi, a fish I'm not familiar with. The skin was crisp from the fryer, and the fish was presented folded in thirds with the head on top, making it a little hard to get at. Except for the skull, fins and tail it was all edible, and wonderfully flavored. Accompanied by a pineapple salsa (skippable), beet-colored brown-butter fume, matsutake mushrooms (awesome), and an herb on top whose name I'd forgotten (small oval leaves, very tasty).
I had a glass of the
junmai ginjo morimoto sake, their mid-grade house brew. Awesome flavor with a bit of a sweet finish that I can only call apricot-asparagus (but it works). Chilled, it perfectly complimented the fish.
Desserts there sound psychadelic, some with six or seven flavors. The four of us ordered the trio of sorbet (chocolate with cocoa nibs, cocoanut with pineapple and passionfruit with grapefruit), and the chocolate tart (accompanied by a sesame tuille, ginger sorbet and cherry componte). The sorbet were brightly flavored and accompanied by nicely complementary garnishes; the chocolate tart was very good, but prettier than it tasted.
I have no idea what the bill was, but for four, I'm guessing around $300 including drinks and tip.
The best meal I've had this year, but hey, it's only February. It will probably stay in the top five, I'm betting. I'd have loved to have met Morimoto-san, perhaps next trip to Philly (I'll be here at least once more this year).
What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
-- Lin Yutang