The Spotted Pig - Gastropub in Greenwich Village, New York

Gastro Chic New York City Entry #107 Spotted Pig

One of shocks to the Gotham culinary mind was the awarding of a Michelin star to New York's first - and perhaps only - "gastropub." Here was the cute little Spotted Pig in Babbo's rarified company (Chef Batali is reported to be a silent partner at the Pig, along with Ken Friedman and London Chef April Bloomfield). There was no doubt that the Pig was a convivial neighborly place, but could a saloon be anointed for its haute cuisine?

It is said that there is no accounting for fashion, and somehow the Pig has transcended its West Village neighborhood to become a "phenomenon." When we arrived at 6:00, the bar had a pleasant Cheers-like feel; by the time we left, two hours later, we had to push our way to the exit, and the night was still in its infancy - a good six hours left to play. Indeed, arriving in time for the Senior's Discount, we missed the true Pig experience.

With its wood floors, exposed brick, and inviting bar, the Spotted Pig (which last year expanded to a second floor) is homey, if in a somewhat generic way. Emptied of customers, one would have no idea that this space will become the center of the downtown universe. The staff, as befits a generous community center, moved with verve and humor. Whether their joy derives from images of tips to come or from the pleasure of being a part of a happening is hard to tell, perhaps both.

The menu, beginning with such bar routines as Chicken Liver Toast, Marinated Olives, Pickles, Roasted Almonds, and Duck Egg, suggests modest satisfactions. However, further reading suggests Chef Bloomfield's ambitions. Having six entrees and desserts and ten appetizers the kitchen is not overtaxed. With its signature chargrilled burger and ricotta gnudi with pesto, the dishes avoid the fussy or challenging. Whether the Pig used to indulge in "modern English cuisine," the British influence is muted; the menu has a vaguely Italianate feel with its Mozzarella with Fava Bean Bruschetta; Gnudi; Pork Tonnata; and Squid and Fennel.

Despite the odds, the Spotted Pig provides early diners pleasure. We began with a pair of appetizers, Radish Salad with Parmesan and Arugula and an order of Sheep's Ricotta Gnudi with Pesto (a cross between gnocchi and ravioli).

The Salad was the star of the evening, one of the most potent salads that I have ordered. Radish are a vegetable less often seen in Manhattan than durian, but I recall it fondly from my childhood, sharing a chilled bowl with my radish-relishing dad. The parmesan cut some of the bitter edge of the radish. It was both gentle on the eyes and zippy on the tongue.



The Gnudi did not live up to its billing as a key offering. I found the gnocchi blanketed by a salty sauce and rather mushy dumplings. It was rich and filling, but not of star quality.



We shared an entree, Pot Roast Rabbit with Green Garlic. The dish was unpretentious but compelling. This is not complex cuisine, but is undeniably well-made. The garlic-based sauce did not overwhelm the pieces of hare, but bolstered its rural charm. This dish, like the others tasted, didn't require extensive culinary acumen, but it evoked a blessed moment before cuisine became finicky (repeat in unison, "what splendid food in a pub!"). With our entree we chose two sides: the Pig's famous Shoestring Fries with Rosemary, as delicious as it was impossible to eat daintily. Bits of spud flew everywhere. Thank goodness this is a pub where no one examines the floor. The heirloom beans were stewed, passable with a subtlety of color, even if the tastes were indistinct.







Dessert was what the Pig labels Banoffee: Banana-Toffee Tart. What a sweet tart: luscious and sugary with strong flavors of ban and offee. A Sundae pie for those who take their calories straight up.



The Spotted Pig works nicely as a modest restaurant that is both joyous and serious, but of course it is more. The Pig combines community center, dating bar, tavern, and nosherie. That the kitchen has ambitions makes it a dining destination for the beau monde. Whether this tiny, crushed, and charming pub can shuffle its audiences is for time to sort. Today this piglet is a spot of alright.

The Spotted Pig
314 W. 11th Street (at Greenwich St.)
Manhattan (Greenwich Village)
212-620-0393

http://www.vealcheeks.blogspot.com

I am going there in three weeks. I can't wait.

We went on Friday night. We arrived around 8:15-8:30 and were advised it would be a 45 min wait for the main floor. It was less than 20. The food was good, the wine and beer list nice, the service pleasant. If I lived in the neighborhood, I'd go all the time, though it's a lot more expensive than similar places here in Chicago. I guess if I could afford to live in that neighborhood, I could afford the $17 burger, the cheapest main course, regularly

The atmosphere was very enjoyable, and we were happy to have had such a short wait.

We just went again, on Sunday, about 7:15 and our wait was quoted at an hour, and pretty much was an hour. The food was very good, again, but what was more interesting was how the server handled what could have been very awkward.

We had ordered the gnudi to start (and share) but our main courses (burgers) came out. We said "hang on there a second, we haven't gotten our starter yet" and the server who had brought them (not our original one) turned around without setting them down, and whisked the burgers away. Our server came out, said she was sorry, she hadn't heard us say that we wanted the gnudi, but she would check with the kitchen to see what they could do. I guess someone else got our burgers (I hope they weren't wasted - with the way the burgers were ordered by every other table, I'm guessing not and she poured me another glass of wine and said "let's just start over" and they did. Out came gnudi, then our burgers and sides. I would have been willing to just write off the gnudi, luckily they were able to make it work out. AND not only did they not charge us for the second glass of wine, she gave us each a complimentary glass of sparkling sweet wine (moscato).

It was my birthday, though they didn't know that, and they definitely made it a special one, without making me feel like it was my fault we didn't get what we had ordered (you know how you do that "did I not say it loud enough? did I dither, or something")

leek wrote:and she poured me another glass of wine and said "let's just start over" and they did.

Great line! Good birthday karma