O.K., so Chicago isn't a deli town. That much is clear. We seem to have trouble supporting even a few delis at any given time and most Chicagoans' idea of deli food seems to involve various permutations of turkey breast.New York, on the other hand
is a deli town, in fact most would consider it to be
the deli town. So what's N.Y. style deli food? What makes it different from say Italian or Lithuanian deli food? It's a
Jewish thing, thats what. Not to say New York delis have to be kosher, most aren't. But the Jewish ethnic roots of the cuisine are undeniable...which is why I find it jarring, even irritating that every time I walk into a self proclaimed "N.Y. style " deli in Chicago, I'm greeted by the sight of rows of grinning hairy
hazer (pig) heads adorning everything in the deli case. On ham,it's o.k., appropriate even. On muenster cheese, fine. But on corned beef or pastrami?
Come on.
This Boars Head thing has really gone too far. It's bad enough that this supermarket style stuff has penetrated the Chicago "deli" market almost completely, but to see it promoted as "real New York deli" is pathetic. Actually in a way almost insulting. Yet whenever I mention the incongruity
to someone at these 'deli's', I get only the blankest of stares. Nobody seems to have the vaguest idea what I might be talking about. Maybe they think pastrami comes from a pig. Maybe they think the hairy pig-like animal on the label is a wild pastrami. I don't know.
I suspect they really don't even understand the basis of my concern. I suppose all the years of whole wheat/ multigrain/blueberry/asiago cheese bagels have taken their toll. "Deli" as a cuisine has evidently been so thoroughly stripped of it's ethnic roots that people don't even see the issue with having a pigface on their pastrami. Too bad.
Lacking fins or tail
The Gefilte fish
swims with great difficulty.
Jewish haiku.