Antonius wrote: Conte di Savoia always has a couple of table pecorinos on hand, as well a table ricotta salata, Gorgonzola, Bel Paese, sometimes Taleggio, I think, as well as cheeses that can double as table or grating cheeses (the usual suspects plus incanestrato).
I discovered incanestrato just last year. What a wonderful cheese. I will never put Parmesan on pasta again.
I was standing at a deli counter waiting to pick up an order, when I spied several beautiful tall rounds of cheese with purplish brown rinds textured with indentations from the wicker baskets in which they were made. I asked the striking copper-haired Italian woman behind the counter whether it was like Parmesan. She said no, it was good for grating on pasta. I thought that was weird, because I always thought Parmesan WAS for grating on pasta. I soon discovered the difference.
She gave me a little piece of the incanestrato to taste. At first I was not very impressed. I was expecting that initial sour lactic flavor blast that you get from Parmesan. There was a little of that flavor but not much. In fact, initially I thought the cheese was rather bland. Then I started to feel a tingling on the side of my tongue. Soon, my mouth was filling with a warm earthy mushroom flavor that just kept swelling, eventually finishing with an astringent (but not sour) bite. It was such a complex sensation. I bought a pound of it, and have not gone back to Parmesan since.
The beauty of incanestrato on pasta, especially with a red sauce, is that it does not compete with the flavor of the sauce, rather it augments it. Because the flavor of the cheese is mostly back-loaded, it does not have the upfront sour brashness of Parmesan, but instead lets the tartness of the tomatoes come through. It extends the flavor cycle of the sauce, as the warm mossy flavor of the cheese slowly builds, at first mixing with the sauce then eventually overtaking it, and finally leaving your mouth tingling with a slightly tannic aftertaste. It makes a simple sauce into a wonderfully complex taste experience.
Sorry, I don't mean to wax poetic over grated cheese, but as I said, incanestrato was a recent revelation for me. If anybody has some more info on this cheese, such as favorite brands and local sources, I would be interested in hearing about it.