You know, I'm always skeptical when brands like Carr Valley or Cowgirl Creamery start showing up everywhere. Not that their cheeses aren't tasty, but, with these two brands in particular, I've found the prices aren't in line with the flavor. That is, once the brand takes off, prices rise commensurately and there are other comparable cheesemakers that keep doing what they've been doing and make products just as tasty, but you don't have to pay for the name.
I say this merely in the interest of revealing my own biases, because I'm not completely convinced of my own argument. But generally, I've thought that Carr Valley and Cowgirl made nice cheeses that didn't quite live up to the tremendous hype.
Recently, though, as in within the past week, I've really enjoyed a couple of these cheeses. The Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam was a very nice American soft-ripened cheese. It had a surprisingly complex taste, but the real selling point on the particular piece (bought at Fox and Obel) was it's ideal ripeness. Ripeness and serving temperature makes all the difference in a cheese like this. It's labeled a triple cream, but it's more Brie de Meaux than St. Andre or Pierre Robert. My only quibble is that it was a touch salty for my taste.
I also picked up a small piece of Carr Valley's Mobay, which is a riff on the French classic Morbier. Where Morbier is cows' milk cheese made partly from the morning milking and from the evening milking, separated by a thin layer of vegetable ash, Mobay is a sheep milk and a goat milk version, separated by a thin layer of ash. Each "half" is good, together it was wonderful--at the same time light and robust in flavor. A hint of rich earthiness to make it interesting, but more characteristic of Basque sheep milk cheeses than its namesake.
Both cheeses are pricey, though, probably around the $20/lb. range. My strategy of late has been to check out the pre-wrapped cheese case at Fox and Obel. Generally, I find the pre-wrapped cheese case to be an abomination. But I like looking for what amounts to scraps of interesting cheese that they throw in their trying to get rid of them. I generally like to buy pretty small amounts of cheese at a time--anywhere from .10 to .25 lbs., but I hate sampling three or four cheeses at the counter and then asking for a slice so small. Often, though, pieces of that size are the last in a wheel, or were cut off a more finicky customer's slice to get the weight to within .01 of a lb. They can tell me at the cheese counter how long it's been around, and what kind of shape it's in. They like it because I buy their leftovers. I like it because I get enough cheese for a light pre-dinner snack. And it's made me a little more open to some "hot" name cheeses.