New Foods (at least to me): Crosnes
At the Oak Park Farmer’s Market, and always on the lookout for new gustatory sensations (or any other type of sensation, come to think of it), I spotted at Nichols today a food I don’t believe I’d ever seen before: crosnes. They’re pronounced “crones” which conjures either an image of seasonally appropriate witches or a gastrointestinal malady, neither very appealing…and yet, this was new food, and so I had to eat some.
I bought a small container from Nichols (three bucks), and while I did, Pa Nichols explained that he had grown them for a French chef in Chicago (name uncertain) who prepared them in many ways, including sautéing.
I ate them raw, and they have a very crisp, moist, slightly celery-like flavor, with a hint of j’ai ne sais quoi.
A little googling revealed that they got their name from a suburb of Paris, and that they’re heirloom members of the mint family. I’m assuming they’re the roots of some mint plant: they’re definitely tubers and although their name and look (somewhat wormy and gnarly) are somewhat off-putting, they’d be nice in a salad in autumn (their main period of availability).
Crosnes seem to have been introduced in Europe near end of the nineteenth century, and there’s is a mention of crosnes in 1892 issue of
Garden and Forest, where these pearl-like roots are described as having “a rather high proportion of albuminous and gummy substances, and therefore constitute a not altogether despicable food,” which is today’s winner of the Damning by Faint Praise Award.
Hammond
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