This past weekend I kidnapped a friend, who was also a fan of the recently relocated Supermercado Morelia, and headed out to the edge of the known world at Cicero and Diversey to check out SM's new digs. We first stopped for a very tasty late lunch at Sol de Mexico, which is just up the street, so by the time we got to Supermercado Morelia we were experiencing the euphoric effect of excessive mole consumption. Nevertheless, my first impression of the nuevo Supermercado Morelia was that it is a wonderful store. It may not be worth the 180 blocks round trip from my house, but if I lived within a few miles of the store, it would definitely make it onto my regular shopping route.
The store is located in what appears to be a former Osco(?) on the south side of Diversey just west of Cicero, directly across the street from Cermak Produce. It has a fairly large and well lit parking lot on the west side of the store.
One of the things I always liked about the old SM in RP, was the ever changing array of hand-stenciled and painted sales signs. The bright fluorescent orange and blue lettering on white paper, gave the front of the market a distinctly Warholesque appearance. I was happy to see that the colorful signs continue on at the new store, but they are now much smaller and mounted like banners hanging from poles throughout the parking lot. This display prompted the competitors across the street at Cermak produce to also place fluorescent signs on posts in their parking lot advertising the exact same items. The tit-for-tat battle of the day-glo sales signs gives the intersection a festive and surreally psychedelic appearance, especially at dusk. I am not sure why the owners of Supermercado Morelia chose a location so close to another established grocer, but as they say, competition always benefits the consumers. A few of Morelia's advertised specials included beef liver for 45 cents a pound, tilapia for 88 cents, and chicken legs for 38 cents.
Having just come from Sol de Mexico, one sign that immediately caught my eye was one promising freshly made tortillas. I hoped that this meant the tortillas are now made in-house. At the old Rogers Park location of SM, one thing that always amazed me was their constant supply of fresh warm tortillas from most of the Chicago tortillerias, despite the long trek from Little Village and Pilsen to the northern edge of the city.
The store itself was fairly large and brightly lit. It was also impeccably clean. The white linoleum floors were waxed and buffed to a high sheen. The aisles were wide and the tall shelves were meticulously stocked. In fact, as I walked around the store, I was struck by the fastidious pride the owners and employees took in the appearance of the business. Nearly everything was perfect. The displays were all neatly stacked with all the edges aligned. The shelves were fully stocked with all the products pulled to the front and every label facing forward. Every grain of rice seemed to be in order.
The produce was nicely displayed without a sign of wrinkled or brown product.
As mentioned above, you could always find a decent avocado at the old RP store. That still seems to be the case. Last weekend the avocados were especially attractive, very large and available in a variety of degrees of ripeness. They were 88 cents each, not a great bargain, but they looked so good, I bought two. What was a great bargain were fresh sweet pineapples for 99 cents each (I bought 2 of those also). They also had the largest Jalapenos I have ever seen. Many were 6-8 inches long, and looked more like small cucumbers.
Directly adjacent to the produce section was a very well stocked open dairy case that ran the length of the store. What at first appeared to be an immense selection of cheese, on closer inspection turned out to be comprised of many of the same items repeated. Although the store seemed to carry all of the most popular products of every major Mexican dairy brand, it was not enough to fill the huge dairy case without having many duplicate rows. In fact, that seemed to be the pattern throughout the store. There were massive long walls of products that were impressive looking, but (with a few notable exceptions) on closer examination did not really offer a bigger variety of brands than one might see in any well-stocked Supermercado. Most everything you could want was represented, but a couple of more unusual products that I know were carried at their previous location, were missing.
At the front of the store was a small self-serve bakery section, which consisted of tall wooden cabinets with glass doors. When I was there, the bakery selection was pretty picked over, but what was there looked good, including some ginormous frosted cupcakes topped with rainbow sprinkles and candied cherries (picture coming soon).
The fish and butcher counters took up most of the rear wall of the store. The area had a little terra cotta tile roof over it with a sky and clouds background painted above it. The butcher counter was pretty busy, but from what I could see, the meat looked fresh and appealing. I did notice a huge stack of cecina that looked pretty tempting. I did not get a close look at the fish, but it also seemed fresh. I didn’t notice if they sold ceviche, like at the old place, but I did see extra large cooked whole prawns for 8.40 lb (smaller ones were 4.50). On the floor in front of the butcher case was box after box of tortillas from Del Rey, Atotonilco, Milagro, La Mexicana and other tortillerias, most of them were still warm.
I wish I had paid more attention to the butcher section (and taken some photos), but I was totally distracted by an employee carrying a giant tray of some kind of meat wrapped in charred banana leaves to the adjacent counter (it turned out to be goat). I looked in that direction and saw, against the far wall of the store, a 20-foot long counter completely filled with huge steaming mounds of roasted meats. (I wish I had brought my camera with the wider angle lens). Sunny D seems to be the drink of choice for eating carnitas y barbacoa.
There were Supermercado Morelia's much loved plump roasted chickens that they sell adorned with stewed giant jalapenos and onions for 6.99. Next to the chickens were huge piles of fresh hot golden brown carnitas.
Next to that was tongue, then Barbacoa de Chivo, Montalayo, Barbacoa de Borrego all covered in banana leafs and finally there was Cabeza, which could be purchased whole. All of it was fresh and hot and delicious looking. I bought some carnitas for 3.99/lb and some goat barbacoa for 4.99/lb. Both were absolutely scrumptious.
Atop the counter were trays stacked with packages of steaming hot freshly made tortillas, priced at 2 dozen for a buck. While these were not quite on par with Sol de Mexico's hand-pressed disks of masa heaven, they were fluffy, fresh and moist and much tastier than the usual factory made offerings. In fact, if I had not been to Sol de Mexico earlier in the day, I would have said these tortillas were the best I had eaten in recent memory. Interestingly, once they cooled off, they did not seem nearly as good.
Across from the wall o' roast meats, was the wall o' beverages. SM has a huge array of Mexican pops and juices. One section featured Mexican versions of American pops, including Coke, Pepsi, Fanta, Sprite, 7Up, Crush and Fresca (non-diet). They did not have my favorite Mexican beverage, Squirt. I ended up buying a Fanta, 7-Up and a Fresca.
Aside from the wall o beverages, SM also had a wall o' hot sauce, a wall o' beans and a large frozen foods case that I didn't look at closely, but one section seemed to contain many unusual frozen fruits like mamey and guaybana.
In summary, The nuevo Supermercado Morelia is a bright, clean, friendly, well staffed and well run store with a nearly comprehensive selection of Mexican products at very reasonable prices. There is also plenty of parking (at least compared to the old store). The produce appears to be of excellent quality and a good value. While it may not be worth a 16 mile round trip for everyday shopping, if I lived anywhere in the vicinity, I think it would become my go-to supermercado. On the other hand, the prepared meats (carnitas, barbacoa, lengua, pollo), and the freshly made tortillas are definitely worth a special trip on the weekends (especially if one is entertaining). In fact, I am thinking about making the trip back out there tomorrow.
--dave