For my mother's 80th birthday this summer I wanted to serve a meal that evoked nostalgia for holidays past when we feasted on either quail or Canadian bacon. Wild rice was always the side dish, the thing I looked forward to most of all. The challenge for my Mom's birthday was to create something that could be served on a 95-degree night. Here is the salad that I came up with. (I think the dressing is especially good.)
It seems the celery root is the magic ingredient- do no omit it. Also, it is essential to caramelize the shallots.
The overall success of the dish lies in two things: 1) Preserving the taste and texture of the individual ingredients 2) The relative contribution of those ingredients and their balance. This must sound like Cooking 101 to most of you, but I have rarely found that advice as useful as it was in preparing this seemingly simple salad.
Using long grain wild rice (such as Ramy brand) is important to achieve the proper texture. In addition, it is very easy for the balance of the salad to go awry. Amounts given below are guidelines, and you may want to use more or less of any ingredient. I used fewer grapes than I had anticipated, for instance, and fewer pecans. Taste again and again, and add what you think is needed to achieve a mouthful that gives you a little of each flavor: grassy (wild rice, parsley, scallion), rich/funky/salty (Canadian bacon), nearly sharp vegetal (celery, celeriac), earthy (wild rice, black walnut oil, pecans) and sweet/caramel/winey/oniony (grapes, shallots, sherry vinegar, fig vincotto), This salad is best if combined a few hours before it is served. I cannot stress this enough. Leaving it overnight to combine results in a different dish entirely, a wetter, oilier dish that lacks the crunchy textures that are vital.
Wild Rice Salad with Canadian Bacon
1 lb. long grain wild rice, preferably Ramy brand
1 cup celery in quarter-inch dice
3/4 cup celeriac (celery root) in quarter-inch dice
3/4 cup jicama in quarter-inch dice
3/4 cup green seedless grapes, quartered
1/3 cup toasted pecans, chopped (not too finely)
1/2 lb. canadian bacon (sliced thinly and cut into 1/2 inch squares
2 T. to 1/4 cup finely chopped scallions (green only)
Salt and pepper - to be added at final assembly
Dressing:
Note: Here I give the minimum amount of dressing. How much you use depends a great deal on how soft the rice comes out and how well the rice is drained, as well as how long it has been chilled, which dries it out. You may make double this much dressing- I did, and added a couple of tablespoons to the salad just before serving. However, it is very important to keep the proportions of the dressing as-is. If you do not, the flavors will be dominated by one of the ingredients only. It is also important to chop the parsley as finely as possible, almost crushing it into a paste, but not quite, and to disperse it in the dressing just before combining the salad ingredients, rather than adding it directly to the salad. Any clumps of parsley-or too much parsley- will totally dominate and ruin the salad. However, it is needed for a hint of green flavor.
6 large shallots, sliced
2 T. olive oil
2 T. Fig Vincotto Vinegar, Giani Calogiuri Brand
2 T. Sherry Vinegar (Jose de Soto Vinagre de Jerez)
2 T. Hammon's Roasted American Black Walnut Oil
4 T. Canola oil
2 t. very very finely chopped parsley
Directions:
Day 1:
1. Prepare wild rice the day before you will serve the salad with repeated soaking/draining method detailed upthread. This method preserves the integrity of the grains, and prevents mush. Watch carefully. Not all the grains will be swollen. Some will remain black and intact. This adds to the textural interest of the dish, though you want at least half to three-quarters of the grains to be gray and fluffy. Cover and chill rice overnight.
Day 2:
2. Dice the celery, celery root and jicama. Ideally, you do this early on the day the salad is to be served. You can do it on the previous day, (i. e. on the same day you make the rice). If you do this, separately refrigerate the vegetables, the scallion, and the grapes to combine the following day. (The grapes may be somewhat the worse for being prepared the previous day- you might want to save this for the day of serving.)
3. Prepare the Canadian Bacon (CB)- I used the Jones pre-sliced CB from Costco, and it worked well. You may prefer a meatier-textured Canadian bacon. Country ham fans might substitute shreds of that ham, adjusting salt in dressing, but the salad will not look as pretty. Brown CB slightly in a pan barely kissed with olive oil. Cut into squares. (As nit-picky as that seems, the look of the CB squares is important to the finished salad, as are the properly quartered grapes.)
4. Toast the pecans and set aside to cool. Reserve for adding just before serving.
5. Make dressing as follows: Slice and over very low heat, slowly caramelize shallots in 2 T. Olive Oil. (I don't know why I used olive oil, when there is no olive oil in the rest of the dressing, but that is how I did it, and it turned out well, so why mess with it?). The caramelization process will take about a half hour. Do not rush. You do not want any burned flavors.
6. Combine oils, vinegar, fig vincotto and caramelized shallots. Let cool. Refrigerate until the following day, when you will assemble the salad.
7. The following day, a few hours before serving: Add parsley to dressing. Stir. Assemble rice, Canadian bacon, vegetables, grapes and scallions. Dress salad, gingerly adding dressing until you judge the whole slightly under-dressed. Refrigerate. Remove from refrigerator at least a half-hour before serving. Adjust seasoning, adding dressing, salt and pepper as you see fit. Add roasted pecans last, to retain their crunch. Salad should be served cool, but not chilled, and not quite at room temperature.
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.