Where do you get it, Mike?Geo,
I order it from a smokehouse down south. For thirty-plus years from Esicar's Smokehouse in Cape Girardeau near where my father grew up an a cattle farm in southeast Missouri. (His family raised their own hogs, slaughtered and cured thm. Sadly, the Esiicars retired a few years ago and I've been searching for a good supplier.
I tried Colonel Newsome's Country hams in Kentuckey for a few years, and this year tried one from Tennessee, which wasn't as good. I'll probably go back to Newsome's this Christmas.
Like any luxury item these things vary wildly in quality and price. Back in the day, Esicar's 16-pound whole ham ran around $60 delivered. Newsome's is around $100, and the one from Tennessee was $80. The instructions for Esicar's and Newsome's are to
completely submerge the ham in water and simmer for four or five hours. Then remove, cool, take off skin, score fat side in a diamond pattern, rub with a brown sugar-orange juice slurry, stud the fatty side with whole cloves, and bake long enough to heat through for service.
Our Tennessee ham said don't simmer it- just cut into slices and cook them as desired. The flavor is fine, but every way I've tried cooking it, it's tough as nails. The catch to simmering it completely covered in water is its' size- you need a really big pot. Most suppliers will cook it for you for a modest charge, which is what we've done the last few years. We'll be going back to that option.
If you don't have too many people for Christmas dinner, you should have a lot left for months of snacking. It's so cured it keeps in the fridge for months, and if you get nervous, finish slicing it up and freeze in 1-serving vacpacs. If you exercise a little self-restraint, it will last until next's year's ham arrives. (Ours never does, though.)
If you're a fan of honey-cured, spiral-sliced "Ham," though, this is not for you. Just stick with your candy ham.

This is all about salt and smoke.
Proper, aged country ham has been my absolute favorite food since I was four years old and first tasted it at the family farm.
Suburban gourmand