Bob S. wrote:Gary, Cook's Illustrated and others have pointed out that the biggest disadvantage of nonstick cookware is the inability to sear, along with the resulting loss of fond for sauces -- does the anodized aluminum have this problem or can you get that good color? I don't have any experience with it and will probably be hinting around to the relatives for cookware come those end-of-year holidays.

I can answer this:

The All Clad LTD line has an anodized *exterior*. The interior cooking surface is identical to the stainless line, and I believe the base of the pans is also identical to the stainless line.

And in my experience anodized interiors create nice fond as well. Calphalon's "commercial" line is hard-anodized aluminum and works rather well.

-ed

Thanks much for the info, Ed!

1. I would have to go with Mix and Match, I don't think anyone place has desired pans for each use.

2. We made a very high end combination cookware set, when I worked for West Bend. Stainless, because that is the most non-reactive but is a poor conductor of heat. Cast Iron was sandwiched in the bottom (not applied, but a enclosed) for heat retention and Copper for heat disbursement. The cookwear was called Lifetime (and had a lifetime guarantee)

3. Aluminum is about the perfect heat and distribute, thats why non-stick is made of it. However, it is so pourous and weak, allowing too much surface wear.

I have a few non-stick pans for low low and high heat frying pan.....everything else is stainless. I still like a steak in a pre-heated cast iron pan.

I'm with the "mix and match" group. I've had All-Clad stainless for years and am completely satisfied with it (though I bought their pentola several years ago and don't care for it). I have only one non-stick fry-pan (14")and only use it for a couple dishes (and I can confirm that they don't last if you use high heat). I also have cast iron fry pans (I traded a Calphalon anodized aluminum fry pan for them), le Crueset (like Antonius, for o rau alla napolitana), and one Chantal (2 Qt sauce pan perfect for risotto for two). For larger rondeaus and stock pots, I have Sitram (catering series) and like it very much. I haven't yet tried any of their sautes, fry pans or chef's pans. And I put everything except the cast iron and copper in the dishwasher. Don't forget to buy several good quality stainless steel tongs, in long and longer sizes.

Hi,

I was flipping through the November/December 2004 Cook's Illustrated. They had a comparative test of "Celebrity Skillets' where the three recommended ones were:

Jamie Oliver T-Fal Professional SEries 12.5 inch Stainless Steel Saute Pan for $59.99
They noted exceptional heat retention and browning to this non-stick pans weight of 4 pounds 6 ounces!

Wolfgang Puck Bistro 12 inch Open Omelet Pan $26.50
Excellent browning and superior fond at a bargain price. But it makes weird sounds heating and cooling. IF you have a gas stove, the handle heats up requiring potholders.

Wolfgang Puck Bistro 12" Nonstick Omelet Pan $29.90
Same as above but non-stick.

When all is said in done, these pans all approached their favorite All-Clad
in many respects, but design flaws kept any from being on par with their favorite All Clad.

I just want to report that I went back to Northwestern Cutlery twice more and lifted those All-Clad pans twice more and went home and ordered the Belgique set from Macys, http://www.macys.com/catalog/product/in ... =EverGreen
even though obviously I'd never even tried out their handles.

You'll have to check back in 16 years to see if they hold up to Gary's All-Clad record (and no doubt by then Gary will have 32 years on his) but the initial report is good. They look great, they're very comfortable, and they passed my first two cooking challenges, rice and pudding, with flying colors. They're also very easy to clean. My only complaint would be that all the lids are slightly different sizes so I'm always rummaging around before I get the right lid for the dutch oven, the saute pan, or the stock pot, all of which have fairly similar diameters.

One of the on-line review sites had all sorts of complaints about them melting down on burners. Sure enough, every pan now has a sticker in it warning not to let the pans boil dry and not to use on a hot electric burner or an electric burner that's too big. Oh, and not to try to use the pan once it's melted down But I have a gas stove (my new GE profile with convection roast and bake--it's a winner too) so I'm not too worried.

Ann Fisher wrote:I just want to report that I went back to Northwestern Cutlery twice more and lifted those All-Clad pans twice more and went home and ordered the Belgique set from Macys,

Ann,

The Belgique pans look great, and I am sure will work as good as they look.

While good cookware might make things a little easier, I have a feeling you'd be able to whip up a tasty meal using just a book of matches and an empty tuna can.

Enjoy,
Gary

G Wiv wrote:I have a feeling you'd be able to whip up a tasty meal using just a book of matches and an empty tuna can.

My Girl Scout past revealed!!! My high school prophecy (do they still do that in high schools?), believe it or not, was that I would someday be the head of the Girl Scouts of America.

I'm not.

I agree with the mix and match approach-- for instance, I bought a Calphalon big frying pan for pancakes and stuff like that, I love the size (three decent pancakes at once instead of one giant one, we can actually eat pancakes as a family) and the ease. Plus it's silly to regard not-dishwasher-safe as a knock on non-stick because it's so easy to clean why would you bother putting it in anyway?

On the other hand, you're not going to get a sear on it, as noted. So the first burgers I cooked in it were pretty much the last, they didn't so much fry as saute. But I have nice steel frying pans for that, not to mention a Weber.

Anyway, that's my point, such as it is. The appeal of the beautiful set of matched pots is largely decorative more than functional. Even now that you have the Belgique coming (and it sounds great), I'd consider adding to it with a non-stick this or that, for instance.

I also have the Farberware Millenium non-stick 12" skillet, and my old 5" cast iron fry pan. And a really big griddle that I got at Edward Don. So I'm set for a while (famous last words, I know!).

For your purposes, this may be of little, if any, use. But for the purposes of the LTH "archive," I will say that...

...in preparation for the day that I take delivery of my very own induction hob, I have kitted my kitchen out with induction cookware. Specifically, the Dahlstrom 98 line by Hackman. I have been "collecting" it for three or four years, now, and I have most of the shielded stainless pieces and all of the cast iron pieces.

It is not cheap, by any means, but I vastly prefer it to the Calphalon, All-Clad Stainless and All-Clad LTD pieces that I have and have tried.

http://www.iittala.com/designor/web/iit ... t&Expand=3

Erik M.

There has been some things written recently about the potentially bad effects of non-stick coatings, IIRC, particularly for women.

Also never use them if you have birds in the house. They will keel over and die.

There is some wisdom in the canary in the coal mine.

Bill/SFNM wrote:I need to replace a few pans and have been looking at the All-Clad line per your recommendation.

Bill,

Did you buy All-Clad?

If so, any comments?

Enjoy,
Gary

G Wiv wrote:Bill,

Did you buy All-Clad? If so, any comments?

Gary-san,

Yes, I got an assortment of the LTD pans - sauciers, saute and frying, and roasters. Best million dollars I ever paid .

I love using them. I expect them to last me for the rest of my life. Your advice about cleaning with lemon juice and K-salt has been great.

Thanks!

Bill/SFNM

I've got a 12" LTD non-stick and two other LTD stainless. I love them all!

stevez wrote:I've got a 12" LTD non-stick

The more experience I gain in cooking, the less frequently I turn to non-stick cookware. The local overpriced gourmet supplies store had an 80% discount closeout sale on some beautiful Henkels cast-aluminum non-stick pans and pots so I grabbed as many as I could. But I find myself rarely using them, except for things like eggs, crepes, etc. I do treasure my Costco non-stick paella pan. Once I relied entirely on non-stick. Now I could pretty much live without it.

Bill/SFNM

A bumper on Good Eats recently claimed that 80% of the cookware sold in America today is non-stick. Maybe we should just be glad that these people are cooking rather than microwaving.

Bill/SFNM wrote:

stevez wrote:I've got a 12" LTD non-stick

The more experience I gain in cooking, the less frequently I turn to non-stick cookware. The local overpriced gourmet supplies store had an 80% discount closeout sale on some beautiful Henkels cast-aluminum non-stick pans and pots so I grabbed as many as I could. But I find myself rarely using them, except for things like eggs, crepes, etc. I do treasure my Costco non-stick paella pan. Once I relied entirely on non-stick. Now I could pretty much live without it.

Bill/SFNM

I don't use mine all that often, either. Mostly for eggs and sticky items like bananas foster.

gleam wrote:The only problem, of course, is that it's awfully expensive stuff. Because of that, it may be wise to buy all-clad seconds from the factory store: Cookware 'n' More - AllClad

FYI - Cookware N More is having a sale, through November 5th, of 20% off all All-Clad irregulars. Add the items to your cart to see the difference reflected.

This results in some exceptional deals, especially for the more expensive stuff. For instance, Amazon charges $125 for the MC2 3qt Saucier (list price). Cookware 'n' More's usual price is $85, but with 20% off it's down to $68.

The large stainless roaster, $275 at amazon, normally $187 at Cookware 'n' More, is $150.

I've ordered the irregulars from them in the past (I have the 3qt saucier mentioned above), and they are, to my eyes, flawless. I don't know what makes them seconds, but mine didn't have any visible defects.

We're very strongly considering picking up a couple more saucepans.

My wife and I are looking to replace our 30 year old "professional aluminum" cookware. We have heard from many friends and cooks that All-Clad is among the best, what say you?
We cook regularly and run the gamut of cuisine, etc...

If cost were not an issue would a european (Mauviel, etc.) stainless-interior copper pot be the best? Or as a recent article indicated, is that spending too much money for no appreciable return?

We would love to hear what others think, or be directed to a link on the topic.

MFK wrote:My wife and I are looking to replace our 30 year old "professional aluminum" cookware. We have heard from many friends and cooks that All-Clad is among the best, what say you?

Did you like your "professional aluminum" cookware? If so, rather than shelling out the big bucks for All-Clad, I'd recommend going to 2009 GNR winner Northwestern Cutlery and getting some real professional aluminum Vollrath cookware (with or without nonstick coating) for 1/3-to-1/2 the price of All-Clad. If you'd prefer stainless steel, Vollrath makes that too (also with or without nonstick coating), and it's still noticeably cheaper than All-Clad. The Vollrath pans' cushioned, oven-safe silicone handles are a nice bonus too.

No, I'm not a paid spokesman (I wish ), I'm just really pleased with my pans - I bought my first set of Vollraths online from a restaurant supply website 5 years ago, just replaced them with more Vollraths this past December from Northwestern Cutlery. Before that I had all Calphalons, which were great, but I'm not interested in paying that much for everyday-use pots & pans again.

Khaopaat wrote:I bought my first set of Vollraths online from a restaurant supply website 5 years ago, just replaced them with more Vollraths this past December from Northwestern Cutlery.

Reading your post I was just thinking Vollrath makes a good pan, but the silicon handles won't last, especially in the oven. Our All-Clad is over 20-years old, still looks pretty good and works perfectly. Same for our couple of Le Creuset pieces and, of course, the 12-inch Lodge cast iron.

Enjoy,
Gary

I have been happy with the Leyse Aluminum pots and pans, but my wife has gotten concerned about the aluminum interior and the senior moments she thinks they cause....thus our need for stainless interiors....I will explore the Vollrath's, but we are looking for something that will last at least 20 years. We are of the mix n' match school as we have Le Creuset, Lodge Cast iron and Mauviel copper as well.

Welcome MFK (excellent initials for a culinary person!).

Read Understanding Stovetop Cookware on eGullet. It is incredibly useful for understanding the properties and uses for different pots, pans, and materials.

My advice is:

Figure out how much you want to spend first. For some pans, more money does mean better quality.

Think about what you cook and then think about the best pots and pans for the job. There are a lot of pots and pans out there that you won't use that often, or at all. So why get them -or why get the best quality version of them. Also think about how you cook. Do you use high heat a lot? Cheaper saute pans are more likely to buckle.

For some pots and pans it is worth spending more money to get the best quality. For example, if you'll use a straight-sided saute pan, invest a lot in a good one. For other pots and pans, it makes more sense to buy a middle of the road version. This is true for things that you won't use that often, as I noted above. It is also true for things like roasting pans and non-stick skillets. There is very little performance benefit to having a clad (i.e. different materials, such as aluminum and stainless steel, pressed together) roasting pan compared to a 100 percent stainless steel pan, yet the clad pan will be 2-3 times as expensive. For non-stick pans, the non-stick surface will begin to scratch over time, even if you are careful. Then you'll have to replace the pan. So getting an All-clad stainless steel pan in which the bottom lasts a lifetime, but the top doesn't, is not a great idea. I get $30 Vollrath non-stick pans from Northwestern Cutlery.

You asked about copper pans lined with stainless steel. This is a good example of why you need to start by thinking about what you cook and then pick the best tool. From Understanding Stovetop Cookware:

Copper with an Interior Lining of Stainless Steel
- Copper has the best overall thermal properties for most cooking tasks. It has excellent thermal conductivity and a high specific heat per cubic centimeter. This means that it provides extremely even heat, is very responsive and holds a lot of heat without needing to be all that thick. However, the thermal conductivity is so fast that copper pans not retain heat well once off the heat -- this is the converse of responsiveness.

...

- Common uses: Almost every pan in the kitchen is manufactured in this design. Especially useful for cooking tasks that require the ultimate in heat control (e.g., making delicate temperature-sensitive sauces) or those where it is particularly beneficial to take advantage of copper’s ability to conduct a lot of heat all the way up the sides of the cooking vessel (e.g., reductions). This design does not have any particular advantages for heating large volumes of thin liquids in stock pots, rondeaux, casseroles, etc.
- Representative manufacturers: Bourgeat, Falk Culinair, Mauviel.

So, if you make fried chicken a lot, you are better off with a $20 cast iron pan.

Most people will say you should avoid sets. The reason for this is that you'll probably pay for pans you won't use and/or that you don't need the same quality level for each pan. Having said that, sometimes you can get excellent deals on sets. So don't dismiss them out of hand. Also, the exact contents of All-Clad sets differs from retailer to retailer.

I presume you are referring to the Cooks Illustrated article. They didn't like the expensive Mauvel because of the handle and other design issues. I tend to agree with a lot of their opinions, but do note that they sometimes have quirky views. In this case, the large saucepan is simply the wrong pan for making a pastry cream, so some of their design criticisms are perhaps not that important.

We recently bought our first All-Clad (a 12" copper-core skillet) from Cookware 'n More. One thing we aren't crazy about is that the cooking surface of the skillet is not flat. It's convex - so the middle is higher than the edge. Is this normal? It was a second, but I thought that was just supposed to be about dings/scratches. I'll obviously get in touch with them if this is not the way it should be, but I wanted to check first to see if this is the way they are made. Thanks.

I have the Stiram catering series. I have stock pots saucepans and skillets and I love them all.
They're stainless steel with a copper core bottom.
They are fabulous.

One word of warning - Sitram makes a non-stick line called Cybernox.
It is SHIT - I cannot overstate this - do NOT go anywhere near Sitram Cybernox

MFK wrote:If cost were not an issue would a european (Mauviel, etc.) stainless-interior copper pot be the best? Or as a recent article indicated, is that spending too much money for no appreciable return?

I've had a nice set (that I put together myself) since back when Mauviel was still exporting. They've stopped. Not cheap. Heavy.

That said, I expect them to outlast me. I use Barkeeper's Friend on them (interior and exterior both) and the inside and out are almost is as good as new, despite some serious (mis)adventures. I have never once regretted spending the money (though I wish they were lighter so that the Lovely Dining Companion would use them more often. I find a cost effectiveness calculation impossible to do on something like this but I know that if they were still exporting, I'd have bought additional pieces without hesitation, so you can take that as a pretty solid vote in favor.

Hi,

There are a number of Mauviel pieces on e-Bay. You may be able to get those extra pieces there.

Regards,

A wonderful idea, thank you. Put the ol' money where the mouth is.

Cathy2 wrote:Hi,

For many years, I had a glass cooktop which required smooth bottomed pots and pans. I bought Corning Visionware, which I still use and like. I can be sitting across the room and at a glance have an idea of what is going on. Occasionally stuff breaks, then I either trot over to Target or wait to find it in a rummage sale.

I made mention of my brother's blog (full disclosure) and etsy store on the professional board but when he ran across this Pyrex Flameware set, I remembered this post and though I would share it here in the event anyone out there was looking for something like this. This post is meant to be more of a "shopping" source for a specific, hard to find pot/pan (for board members) rather than a plug for his site but if the moderators feel the need to pull it, go right ahead. Here's the link: http://junkandhowe.blogspot.com/