David Hammond wrote:Little Yellow Mangoes . . . lusciously sweet, but with that turpentine-y mango smack we like,
I know just what you are talking about, Mr. Hammond. I have always felt that the special charms of mangoes are enhanced by their piney-ness. Last spring I made a dinner with Indian flavors in classic dishes from other countries. For one of the desserts I developed a kind of Anglo-Indian mango trifle with gin and fig preserves and it went over quite well with friends. The juniper in the gin really goes well with the turpentine-y quality of the mangoes. No one seemed to taste the gin as gin. There is no custard in the trifle, so it is quite quick and easy. Here is the recipe, more or less:
Mango Trifle with Gin
Ingredients:
1 Package Savoiardi (Italian ladyfingers)
1 Pint Whipping Cream, whipped (organic if available)
3-6 T. Gin
1/2 jar Green Fig preserves
4 large to 8 small mangoes (number needed depending on size)
Optional: 2 T. Crystallized ginger, finely minced
Note: This creates a more complex flavor, but may interfere with pure appreciation of the piney quality of the mangoes and gin.
Method:
Melt fig preserve in microwave-- should be liquid, so add a T. of water & stir if it seems too thick to spread.
Brush fig preserve onto savoiardi -- use your discretion here, it's a matter of taste.
Line a trifle bowl or other deep bowl with savoiardi-- the fig preserve helps them to stick in place.
Peel and slice mangoes and place in bowl on top of savoiardi.
Sprinkle optional ginger over mango slices (if using).
Drizzle with gin -- drench if you like.
Top fruit with Whipped Cream. Slightly overfill bowl. It seems like a lot of cream, but no one protested when they ate it.
Refrigerate for an hour to let savoiardi soften and flavors blend.
Serve.
N.B. If you assemble the trifle too far ahead (more than an hour or two), it will lose its kick, but the gin will still add that je ne sais quoi.
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.