DML wrote:I love the taste of morels, but have never cooked with them.
Is there anything I need to do to cook them (I really don't have a clue -- what part is edible? My knowledge is limited to "when I see it on the menu, I order it").
I was thinking of doing something very easy -- morels shaved over a pasta sauce or something.
Any advice?
Widely varying opinions abound on this subject. Before addressing the cooking question, you’ll have to decide how to clean them. Morels are often quite gritty, and almost always have some creepy crawly guys nourishing themselves within the craters. Many people will tell you to wash morels thoroughly, perhaps even leaving them to soak for an hour in a bowl of heavily salted water. It’s true that the salt water bath is the best and perhaps only way to remove the critters prior to cooking.
The salt water bath is heresy, in my opinion. In fact, when I see morels on a restaurant menu, I always ask how they are cleaned before I order them. If any kind of soak is involved, I pass. Water and salt sap morels of their woodsy flavor, and usually cause them to come out slimy after cooking. I’d rather have some extra protein from the worms, et al. It’s a little disconcerting when the morels hit the pan and a little red critter scurries out the top of one, but when this happened last night I just turned my head and pretended not to see it. The cooked product was none the worse.
My method also ignores exaggerated warnings about raw morels being toxic. I always taste my batch raw – if it’s got just a little grit, then I don’t do any cleaning. If it’s especially gritty, I’ll run each morel briefly under the sink sprayer, then immediately dry them thoroughly with a hair dryer set to blow cool air on low (yes, I am obsessive when it comes to my morels).
One precaution I do always take is to split the morels lengthwise in half or quarters before cooking. Every now and then I’ll find one that’s just swarming with hundreds of ants inside. A little extra protein is fine, but that’s too much. I toss these (after shedding a couple of tears).
Morels, like all mushrooms in my opinion, are best cooked like meat rather than vegetables: pan roast rather than sauté. I set a pan to medium, and add plenty of butter. Add the morels to the pan in one layer and leave them alone for about 8 minutes. Then use tongs to flip, and add plenty more butter, some thyme and black pepper. Another 8 minutes on the second side and, when they’re almost done, I turn up the heat and add a splash of dry white wine which cooks off in a couple of minutes. More butter, a quick stir, and serve over toast points (or, as in last night’s dinner – as part of a dish of yukon gold gnocchi with asparagus puree, asparagus tips, and morels).
Beautiful as the guys pictured below were, one was an unsalvageable host to about a thousand ants – only discovered after splitting it open, which I highly recommend before cooking…
...defended from strong temptations to social ambition by a still stronger taste for tripe and onions." Screwtape in
The Screwtape Letters by CS Lewis
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