Muscadine

A while back, on a trip to Monroe, Wis., I purchased a number of jams from Brennan's. This week we opened the jar of muscadine preserves. Ordinarily, muscadines are made into jellies, because of the toughness of their skins, but these preserves have some pieces of skin in them, which provides a nice texture. But that is nothing, next to the flavor.

There really is nothing like a muscadine, I cannot quite describe the taste, grapelike and yet there's something elusive. If you grew up with them, as I did, the taste will take you back. I was surprised to see this southern fruit on offer among Brennan's jams and jellies, although I have occasionally seen muscadines (but never scuppernongs) for sale fresh in Chicago.

Himself and I have our daily toasted breadstuffs with two toppings, a true sour orange marmalade and a sweet preserve. This week we are lucky to have the good marmalade in the white bottle that someone gifted us, and these muscadine preserves.

I often look for wild or heritage fruit jams and preserves on the road. Brennan's is a good source, we also had blackberry butter (quite tart and good) from there. Eating these muscadine preserves reminded me that I have lurking in the back of the cupboard some wild sumac jelly, sandhill plum jelly, and wild choke cherry jam from a trip through Kansas a year or so ago, as well as some beach plum preserves from my last trip to the east coast.

These type of preserves, usually commercially made for local vendors, are often quite good, and a reminder of how much my grandparents (and even my mother) foraged for things to preserve. I have been meaning to experiment with some preserving of wild grapes that are so abundant along the roadside in southern Wisconsin--next year I think I will finally make the grape ketchup recipe that I have.

Annieb:

I love muscadine jelly ALMOST as much as I love mayhaw. It's got a perfume-y quality, but not in that grandma-bathed-in-rosewater way. Where did you grow up? I was raised on mayhaw, dewberry and muscadine jelly. Didn't realize you could buy jelly (if that's what you want to call that stuff) in the store until I was old enough to drive.

If you ever need an independent connection to mayhaws or muscadine (if you want berries, juice or the actual jelly itself), a family friend in Louisiana grows and processes, and is always looking for interested parties--chefs, particularly--to get the good word out about these native fruits. I've got a pantry full of his jelly.

I'll also add that if you're ever offered muscadine wine, run away. Stuff is nasty.

Found giant muscadine grapes at Treasure Island on Wells street this morning. Largest muscadines I've ever seen. Some were closer in size to small plums. I only bout 1.5 pounds today. I think I must go back tomorrow.

These grapes have a winey taste with thick, almost inedible skins. The flesh is seeded and delicious.