Soup Dumplings/Soup Buns

This month's Gourmet has a fine article on dining in Shanghai which features a recipe of an item that is near and dear to the hearts of many LTHers.. the Shanghai Soup Bun or Soup Dumpling as many of us call it.

Some time ago, I remember one of our inquisitive members inquiring at Ed's as to how they got the "soup" in the bun. The explanation, if I recall correctly was that cabbage in the filling sweats and in combination with the meat and seasoning in the filling causes a "soup" to be made in the dumpling.

The Gourmet recipe is suggesting something totally different. It is suggesting that one of the key ingredients of the soup bun is a rich aspic laden with pork bones, chicken bones, and star anise that is congealed, then chopped into small cubes. One of each of the cubes is placed in the bun along with the filling to create the "soup". The heat of the steaming melts and heats the aspic to a soup like temperature.

The recipe seems arduous. I don't see myself trying it at home considering the availability and good quality of soup buns available at many Chinese restaurants here in town.

Here is a link to the recipe for those interested in giving it a try:

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recip ... ews/231482

YourPalWill wrote:The Gourmet recipe is suggesting something totally different. It is suggesting that one of the key ingredients of the soup bun is a rich aspic laden with pork bones, chicken bones, and star anise that is congealed, then chopped into small cubes. One of each of the cubes is placed in the bun along with the filling to create the "soup". The heat of the steaming melts and heats the aspic to a soup like temperature.

I recall hearing that mentioned as the method for soup dumplings as well, perhaps on the other board. I can't for the life of me find it now, though. Predictably.

It certainly seems like the best way to get a very rich stock inside a dumpling. I don't know that I buy the "cabbage + heat = soup" argument from Ed's...

I'm also not quite sure how cabbage alone would be able to form enough soup to qualify it as a soup bun. The aspic cubes that are generally used to make Shanghai style soup buns, although a lengthy process, is not difficult. Getting the dumpling skin or bun piece to turn out correctly (not to thin, but thick and sturdy enough to hold the soup) seems to me to be the arduous part of the recipe.

YourPalWill wrote:The Gourmet recipe is suggesting something totally different. It is suggesting that one of the key ingredients of the soup bun is a rich aspic laden with pork bones, chicken bones, and star anise that is congealed, then chopped into small cubes. One of each of the cubes is placed in the bun along with the filling to create the "soup". The heat of the steaming melts and heats the aspic to a soup like temperature.

I have also heard, independently, of the chilled soup cube ingredient before in the soup dumplings.

The main beef I have with Ed's is that they don't place a cucumber or lotus leaf between the dumpling and the bamboo steamer so it tends to stick to the bamboo, making a high risk of tearing, and thus draining, the soup dumpling. Otherwise I really like them; perhaps experts in this field have no difficulty in gently pulling the dumpling from the bamboo, but I always manage to tear a few.

I see mention of Ed's for the dumplings. What or where is Ed's.

I didn't know you could get good soup dumplings in Chicago. Where would you recommend and how do they rate compared to restaurants in NYC, most notably Joe Shanghai's.

Thanks

Clapper,

Sometimes we are so familiar with places, we just refer to them and move on assuming everyone knows. They're referring to Ed's Potsticker House.

Clapper:

Sometimes, Ed's can be a bit inconsistent. But, they rate favorably with Joe's when they are on. Phoenix will also steam a basket of soup dumplings for you, too. Joe's is an exceptional place, IMO. It is hard to duplicate their product.

Hi,

Sometime ago, maybe on the other board, someone learned the Chinese eat the lettuce or cabbage leaf the dumplings are resting on while steaming. They puzzled why the Americans did not eat the lettuce/cabbage leaf after eating the dumplings.

Maybe Ed's doesn't do this out of deference to American tastes. I am merely speculating and since they observed nobody eating (the best part?), they economize ever so slightly by not using it. When ordering soup dumplings at Ed's next time, why not ask for the lettuce or cabbage leaf underneath.

On the Ed's inconsistency note, I went there last weekend with the family after the auto show, and it being prime dim sum time, it was packed. They were clearly having a hard time keeping up, and though my food was pretty good, there were some slight missteps and I'd recommend a weekday lunch or dinner, or even later in the day on the weekend, over a time when they're super busy. This isn't a criticism of Ed's, which I love, just a recognition of reality.

HI,

Last weekend was the double whammo of Car Show and Chinese New Year, each alone draws a crowd. Together, it's just a nightmare.

Cathy2 wrote:Hi,

Sometime ago, maybe on the other board, someone learned the Chinese eat the lettuce or cabbage leaf the dumplings are resting on while steaming. They puzzled why the Americans did not eat the lettuce/cabbage leaf after eating the dumplings.

Maybe Ed's doesn't do this out of deference to American tastes. I am merely speculating and since they observed nobody eating (the best part?), they economize ever so slightly by not using it. When ordering soup dumplings at Ed's next time, why not ask for the lettuce or cabbage leaf underneath.

I always eat the napa under the dumplings, sometimes enjoy it more than the dumpling itself. If you are looking for this Moon Palace always includes the leaf under, as well as providing the fresh ginger alongside

zim wrote:I always eat the napa under the dumplings, sometimes enjoy it more than the dumpling itself.

My children frequently admonish me for consuming the garnish (the little parsley, for instance, which I find to be a welcome stomach-settling, breath-freshening ending to a steak dinner), but I cannot imagine not eating the exquisitely sculpted radishes and tomatoes at places like Silver Spoon. Garnishes are more than just visually appealing.

Hammond

I feel very foolish. I actually made soup dumplings last weekend (pictures to follow) and had discarded the lettuce leaf upon which it was steamed. Next time.

You actually made soup dumplings?!?

Jonah (Joan's husband)

Hi Jonah,

Given an upcoming career change, I have been in recipe testing mode. This past Monday was dumpling/potsticker day. Surprisingly, soup dumplings are not that difficult to make. All they really require are a good gelatinous stock boiled to aspic consistency and then practice at shaping. Pictures were not taken of the first few attempts.

Joan and I would be happy to help you "test" anything!

Jonah

Jonah wrote:You actually made soup dumplings?!?

LOL!! You are asking a woman who once said--in reference to one of the gingerbread houses that she has made-- that her favourite was "the English cottage with an icing thatched roof and carmelized sugar windows."

Again, and I repeat, LOL!!

Hats off to MAG!!

E.M.

MAG wrote:Given an upcoming career change, I have been in recipe testing mode.

Glad to hear it. I didn't comment at the time, but when I saw your holiday posts about all the baking you took on your trip and the incredible New Year's Eve dinner I kept thinking "what is this woman doing practicing law?" Not that it isn't a noble profession, and all that, but lawyers are a dime a dozen. Cooks with your skill and talent are a lot rarer.

Thank you for all of your very kind compliments.

As for things which are a dime a dozen ... I found this quote which I use in my pie talks:

Recipes Tried and True
Compiled by the Ladies' Aid Society of the First Presbyterian Church, Marion, Ohio, 1894:

There are plenty of women capable of choosing good husbands (or, if not good when chosen, of making them good); yet these same women may be ignorant on the subject of making good pie. Ingenuity, good judgement, and great care should be used in making all kinds of pastry.

110 years ago, someone paralleled Ann's thinking.