I really don’t have a sweet tooth, but over Thanksgiving weekend I found myself assigned to making desserts – specifically tarte tatin. I became slightly obsessed with this apple-caramel mixture, but after trying several different versions, I think I got it down (although not in the way that the Tatin sisters, who invented the recipe, would appreciate, or describe as authentic).
But that’s another story. The first step in making a tarte tatin is making the caramel. Which leads me to brittles. As a kid, I loved peanut brittle, but it almost always involved a stick-to-your-teeth residue that wasn’t particularly pleasant. But watching the caramel bubble up for the tarte tatin, and throwing in some almonds, inspired me to explore the world of brittles. (Guess what friends are getting for the holidays.)
I’m amazed at how quick and easy they are to make. I use a well-seasoned cast iron skillet, although I think a non-stick skillet could work equally well. I start with a little (maybe 1/4 cup) of water, and about a cup of sugar, and about 2 tbsp butter, over relatively high heat.
Swirl until all the sugar is dissolved. A little (i.e. 1 tbsp.) of lemon juice can help counteract what could otherwise be a super-sweet product. Lemon zest (or any citrus zest, for that matter) can also be a welcome addition.
Once it gets bubbly all over, throw in and swirl about 1 tbsp of baking powder – that’ll make the product lighter, and avoid the stickiness of other, commercial brittles. Once the caramel turns light tan, add the nuts. In this case, I used ginko nuts (I take ginko extract every day, but I forget what it’s for), but I’ve also made more traditional versions with peanuts, pecans, and pumpkin seeds (and my stash of sesame seeds is quivering).
Keep it on the heat until it’s a medium brown – about the color of light walnut (the heartwood, not the sapwood).
Then turn it out onto parchment, and cover it with another sheet of parchment.
Using a rolling pin, roll it out until it’s relatively flat, and let it cool.
Once cool, you should be able to break it into shards, which you can package up and give away, or just expose your true glutton self and consume the whole thing immediately.