This thread about parm costs always kills me. If you don't care for lengthy explanations of differences between one wheel and another wheel of parm, and why some may necessarily cost more, scroll to the bottom of this post for a summary.
Let's get this straight: not all parms are created equal or cost the same in wholesale (and thus retail), for good reasons. There are tremendous differences between the flavor (and desirability) from season to season, farm to farm. Some farms are in the mountains, and during spring, summer, and fall the cows graze on grass. Some farms are in the valley, and the cows eat hay for most of the year that comes from one (or more)
fodder producers. Some farms are tiny. Others are huge.
There are 492 dairies producing parm, and nearly 5000 producers of milk. You can bet that there is a large variance in quality and flavor.
Once cheese is produced, it ages in a large warehouse. Some of these warehouses are cooperative, others are owned by companies who select and market the cheeses in their warehouse under their own label. Marketing labels include Virgilio, Rocca, Cravero, etc. They will charge a premium for products that they vet and sell as their own.
At this point, a digression: is every chardonnay produced in Chablis under AOC regulation considered to be equal and sold at the same prices? Absolutely not. Yet each is produced under the identical rules and regulations. The difference is in the skill of the winemaker, the handling of the product, expression of attributes in the final product and other factors. The same can be said of Parmigiano-Reggiano, which is produced under strict regulation following DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) guidelines.
DOP, along with grading (there are three grades: XX, regular Parmigiano-Reggiano, and Extra) has ensured that there are no truly awful parms, but nor are there truly incredible ones. It has, in effect, leveled the playing field - but not to the extent that there are no differences. With a natural, seasonal product, there inevitably will be differences. You will occassionally see parm in stores that is scored with parallel lines ringing the cheese - this is a cheese that was determined not to be of high enough quality for export. It is exported all the same, and frequently shows up in US stores (I've seen it at Fairway in NYC) for less than better quality cheeses. If you see two XXs over the number, it is a pretty good sign that you should turn your nose up and run.
The
Consorzio del formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano publishes a book with a guide to the farms. This is available from the consorzio. Nancy Radke, who represents the Consorzio in the US, is an incredible resource and conducts some of the most informative classes on parm that I have ever had the pleasure of attending. If you see a class she is teaching, I urge you to attend.
Of course, most of this is irrelevant if you are buying cheese to shave on pasta or for some other creation where it is a minor player or will be overwhelmed by other ingredients. If you are buying it to have it stand out as a feature of the dish or to eat on its own, however, it is always best to seek out top quality, which you will not find for $9.99 a pound.
In summary, the things that impact the price of Parm:
-Quality and grade, sometimes age
-Desirability of a particular farm's cheese (indicated by number on front of cheese) and season (sometimes premiums are charged for summer)
-Whether it is chosen and marketed by a selection house
-Individual store markup
-Market factors like energy costs, tariffs, etc
-If it is packaged and shipped in wedges at the wholesaler or in Italy or if labor is involved at the store in cutting and wrapping
-Cult Status (Vacche Rossa)
Resources:
http://www.parmigiano-reggiano.it/home.cfm
http://www.crpa.it/home/it/Progetti/sifpre/
http://www.dcq-pr.it/cms/index.php
-end of rant-
CONNOISSEUR, n. A specialist who knows everything about something and nothing about anything else.
-Ambrose Bierce, The Devil's Dictionary
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